hey ken!

i had the last version available in canada of the mr2. it was the 93 model, black with all the options. sweet ride! i miss that little road rocket, sigh.

lee

 

With ADD there is an axle disconnect mechanism on one axle, and no hubs - the axles turn all the time. With the one axle disconnected (ADD off) the diff does not turn though. Switch into 4wd and the ADD reconnects that one axle and now it all works. Very simple sytem.

Manual hubs without ADD left locked in for 2wd highway driving is fine, I used to do it all the time so I could shift in and out of 4wd as conditions dictated, but it affects mileage a little and steering a lot. IF you put a traction aid (posi etc) in the front diff, street driving with the hubs locked the steering is terrible!

I'm with Corey - I'm putting on manual hubs but keeping my ADD.

 

Thanks. You see, I'm color blind... so we came up with this paint job. Doesn't matter much what color I say it is - I'm right! I'm much happier now...

 

I'll be doing something with my truck in the spring. I work in autobody and paint cars, but I'm more clever with stenciling than freehand airbrushing.

 

hey phil!

manual hubs AND ADD? i dont understand, why would you use manual hubs with add? i understand how the manual hubs work, i understand how the add systems works but im lost on using the two together. would you be able to explain it to me because i cant seem to get my mind around using them together.

thanks,

lee

 

The reason I think manual hubs are better (for me) is because they are simple. No vacuum lines or electric connections to consider. It's either free or locked by what I set it to on the dial. I never wonder about it working right.

 

With all of the above posts I would think it's been explained to death.

With ADD and no hubs, all ya gotta do is yank the lever and you're in 4wd. Reverse operation to get out of 4wd. Simple. I like it. BUT, as with most people, 90% of my driving is on the highway, and those axles are turning all the time...

So, if I install manual hubs, I can disengage them for the 90% of the time I don't need 4wd. Less wear and tear on the front components, better steering response, better mileage.

So, now winter comes around and we get snow and ice. In patches. So with manual hubs AND ADD I could leave my hubs locked in, but leave it in 2wd, and because I kept the ADD while in 2wd my front diff and front driveshaft are not turning (big drag!) so I get great road manners and can still yank the lever when I want without getting out to lock/unlock the hubs. Same for running trails too. If I remove my ADD, then I either have to lock/unlock the hubs alot, or live with 2wd/hubs locked on dry pavement between ice patches... Perfectly do-able, but it sucks, I know from long experience.

The ADD is not failure prone, so why bother to remove it? Keep it AND manual hubs - Best of both worlds. Kinda. Make sense?

 

If I'm reading this right, and I may not be , you would do this so you can have pushbutton 4x4 without having your front axles spinning all the time (which occurs with the stock ADD system). Like Flygtenstein said, ADD has nothing to do with your hubs.

I think that's how it works anyway........

 

wouldn't a diff drop help here?
and what is too much lift?

 

hey phil!

thanks for explaining the methodology of keeping the add and manual hubs. i was a bit lost on why, you helped me understand it better. makes perfect sense and yes, you have the best of both setups.

thanks again.

lee

 

It helps a little. Anything older than tacomas and the 3rd gen 4runners can't use a diff drop like the newer ones can.

 

I know folks in snow country that lock their front hub at the first snow and leave them locked all winter. Its a small hit on fuel mileage, fraction of an MPG at most. Almost the same as having ADD. Lock them then shift in and out of 4WD as you wish. True shift on the fly 4WD, any speed. If you get a break of clear weather then by all means unlock the hubs, but no need to hop in and out all the time.

 

what's the difference between manual CV's/spindles and ADD CV's/spindles?
i know (i've heard) the ADD CV's are beefier, but how does it improve the angle problem?

 

Ya get in better touch with nature and that fresh air your ma always told you about

 

hey guys!

just finished up the add to manual hub conversion. i had some difficulty snugging up the bolt and washer on the passenger side cv axle as the axle was free turning. does anyone have the torque specs for these bolts, hub body nuts and cap cover bolts? how deep are the cone washers supposed to seat. thanks for any info you can supply.

lee

 

Exactly. So you can have the convenience of pushbutton 4x4 (actually pull lever 4x4) on the fly, and ALSO you can have 2wd without the axles and joints spinning.

 

None. Same part number.

The difference is the hubs themselves, and the ADD sleeve inside the stub axle. But the drive axles are the same with either system. The outer end of the shaft either slides into a simple splined flange and so spins all the time, or slides into the manual hub assembly and can be unlocked. Either way the inner end bolts up to the axle housing flanges.

Hubs:

 

Axle, Diff & Driveshafts showing ADD parts:

 

thanks for the info!!

 

What is needed to add manual hubs to my '04 Taco, other than the hubs themselves?

Thanks~ Gary