For those who tuned out on the original thread "ADDCO Front Anti-Sway Bar Problem", or perhaps never tuned into to it, but you have the Addco bars on your 4Runner; if you are interested in replacing the <<<REAR >>> OE endlinks with something more HD, please go to the before mentiioned thread and read the last few posts I made. Time is of the essence.

 

Any interest in the new rear endlinks? I want to get production started today and I have four sets spoken for.

 

I'll take one set. How is it going to be mounted to the bar?

Thanks

 

The rear stock ones should be plenty fine.

I have been running the Addcos longer then anyone I know and never seen any indication the rears are not strong enough.

Of course there is nothing wrong with planning ahead.

Gadget

www.GadgetOnline.com

 

What would be an indication that they are not strong enough ... the ball socket popping? The rod snapping? It is my opinion, just as what you said is your opinion, that the OEM ball socket endlinks were designed and rated for the less rigid, more flexible anti-sway bar, and if I can get something made that provides the same functionality as the OEM endlink, but also does not stress a mechanism and replaces it with something more simplistic and solidly constructed, such as the bogbone bushing configuration design with a high tensile bolt through the bar mounting hole, then I should do it, if for no other reason than the piece of mind it will give me. It is very easy to visually determine when a bushing is wearing, but not as easy with the ball socket endlink design, and most likely it would just let go all at once. I drive down a lot of dirt roads with bumps and ruts so, for me, I am glad to have the option of a more HD endlink configuration, not to mention the fact that when I changed over the front endlinks it was like day and night … and yes, I remember what it felt like when I first installed the front bar. This is still better. I may even order some new shocks at this point.

 

As I understand it, the lower mounting will be half of what is called a dogbone, or better described as a circular donut shape that will be sandwiched between poly bushings and washers that a bolt will pass through and then go through the mouning hole in the bar. The top will be the same as most endlinks, a partially threaded rod with the mounting bracket sandwiched between bushings and washers. I have not seen a sample and have trusted Addco to do the right thing ... and I have every confidence that they will.

We are up to five sets now with your commitment and I plan on calling to give them the count before the close of business either today or tomorrow. I would expect to be given a PN to reference to. I cannot believe that more guys don't jump on this opportunity. Remember, the Addco bars are approximately 400% stiffer than the OEM bars.

 

I just got a call from Addco and they are about to start the run on the HEAVY DUTY REAR ENDLINKS for the Addco anti-sway bars. All those who previously made a request need not reply, but anyone who has not spoken up before now who wants them please let me know. I have no price but you can rest assured it won't push your cigarette, beer or soda (PC) budget over the line.

SPEAK UP or forever hold your peace.

 

I do not know if any of you guys have installed the new rear endlinks yet but I just attempted to and observed the following design error.

The shaft sleeves are .50" too short. Mine measure 2-3/8" long and for the correct bar articulation they need to be 2-7/8" long. I wrote to Addco and sent them a picture to confirm my theory. I will let you know if they concur because I told them they will need to replace the sleeves for the rest of the people who bought the endlinks if they were all too short.

 

Can you post a picture of this thing?

Gadget

 

Here you go.

 

"I've finished the drawings and taking all the measurements and I just emailed pictures to Addco. I am about to Fax the schematic and I told them that I would let them know first thing tomorrow how many sets I thought I could speak for."(quote Manymods)

Who's design error was it?

 

There is no picture there...

Gadget

 

I gave them every measurement (measure twice, cut once) that I thought was important. I gave them the length from the center of the ball socket to the top of the hex head (96mm) and the collar above that (3mm). I gave them the length from the top of the collar to the tip of the threaded shaft (53mm) and the entire length from the center of the ball socket to the tip of the threaded shaft (152mm). I did not know how they were going to construct the endlink and therefore did not give them the length of the shaft from its connecting point to the ball socket to the base of the hex head on the shaft. That is the measurement they would have needed in order to make a sleeve the correct length.

Here is the only e-mail I received requesting more information:

If you could get some dimensions, i.e. center of the ball and socket end to
the point the endlink passes through the tab on the frame. Also the diameter
of the hole in the bar so I can use the proper size bolt to attach it. I
think it would be possible to produce an endlink in this fashion.

I would think that from the measurements I provided to them they should have been able to figure out the lengtht of the sleeve. So, if you would like to blame this on me, so be it. If Addco wants to charge for replacing the sleeves, I will buy them for all those who bought the endlinks. I just want this to be right and move on to the next thing.

 

Sounds like a personal problem? I see it on my computer.

 

I had to go to see a machinist today to have the temperature manifold block altered to accept the 10mm compression fittings I just received from Germany and I asked the guy if he could make me some sleeves for my endlinks out of stainless tubing. He is going to see if he can find some comparable tubing stock and cut 3" sections for me. I know that the length that I quoted was 2-7/8" but I want the articulation a little more extended ... like a whopping 1/8"!! I think that the Addco sleeves are treated with some sort of rust resistant coating but I do not know what it is.

 

Just a note for those who do not know how much to tighten endlinks.

For proper tightness of end-links and maximum bushing life, the end-link nut should be tightened until you can no longer rotate the spacer by hand. Over-tightening end-links could result in bolt failure.

 

Can we assume that you are still pursuing this issue with Addco on behalf of those whom also received end links with the erred sleeves .

 

Absolutely.

I have not heard back from Addco on the 31 March e-mail I sent them but I know I will. I e-mailed them again and told them that if it simplified matters for them they can send all the corrected sleeves to me and I will get your addresses and mail them out myself. I will handle this so please have faith in my desire to do the right thing at all times. I just want this to be right for everyone. Okay?

 

I've instaled mine and was confused why they were so short, i guess this is explain it. I am wondering now if the inserts should be slightly longer for lifted trucks? Let me know what you think.

 

We are limited by the overall length of the dogbone shaft so you might be able to go a tiny bit longer but if you have lifted your truck more than 1" I think you really need completely new and longer endlinks, but I am not an expert and cannot say for sure. I am having sleeves made that are 1/8" (3.0") longer than what would be standard (2-7/8"). The main thing is that the articulation of the bar should be level with the ground or parallel with the lower control arms.

For anyone who wants to get this problem solved before I can get the sleeves replaced, I am sure that you can find steel fuel line tubing of the same ID and cut it to any length you want with a tubing cutter. It is not a big deal, just a PITA. I was very disappointed when I saw that the sleeves were wrong.