95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

98 rear hatch wont open.

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Old Aug 11, 2016 | 06:44 AM
  #1  
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98 rear hatch wont open.

Hey everyone, apologies if I'm posting in the wrong area, but it's the only page I could find that will let me post..

Onto, well I have a 98 4runner and the rear latch won't open, I've tried many tricks and nothing seems broken the Handle pulls the cable and all but the cable won't budge where it engages. I've pulled and pulled and nothing, any and all advice it welcomed, thanks.

Charles.
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Old Aug 11, 2016 | 07:24 AM
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From: Frederick, MD
It sounds like it is still locked. Can you hear the electric lock when you use the keyfob? Or turn the lock by key? Or the button from your door?

Did the latch work previously? Could something be jammed in the workings of the latch?
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Old Aug 11, 2016 | 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by fierohink
It sounds like it is still locked. Can you hear the electric lock when you use the keyfob? Or turn the lock by key? Or the button from your door?

Did the latch work previously? Could something be jammed in the workings of the latch?
No key fob, but electrical locks, with the panel off I can hear the lock working although to the naked eye, I can't see anything moving, not use what it's supose to move though, but like I previously mentioned. I've disconnected the cable to have been trying to disengage it by hand, I know theirs an electronic cable that also runs to the bottom mechanism. Assuming also part of the lock. I've tried unplugging it, no change in results. The key is have for the hatch, when used it activates the window, up/down depending on window but it seems like I can't get a full turn out of the key either. I recently bought this runner 2 mnths ago, so I've never had it open.

Thanks.
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Last edited by Cknowles98sr5; Aug 11, 2016 at 01:32 PM.
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Old Aug 11, 2016 | 03:11 PM
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From: mo
Here is more pics of that latch so you can kinda see how it operates. The electric is for the door open switch. The lever on the lower right hand corner is what the cable moves that works the latch. It's the same that is in your last picture.
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Don't know if that'll help much, seeing a little more what's what. I don't have the stock rear bumper anymore so getting to the bolts that hold the latch to the body is possible for me, I believe you have obstacles that make that difficult. It would be the two bolts facing horizontal, not the vertical ones, and then there's the big plastic bumper trim piece in the way that surrounds the striker assembly. Will be interested in how you get the hatch open because curiosity. This has happened to others many times before, don't know if you've searched but am betting you have.

Last edited by habanero; Aug 11, 2016 at 03:14 PM.
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Old Aug 11, 2016 | 05:46 PM
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Thanks for the pictures, I'm not sure if they'll help me or not due to not being able to actually open the hatch yet.. but if I ever figure out how to release it I'll post how and pics,. This really is a pain. The dealer wants to charge me 1000$ to replace the whole assembly..
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Old Aug 11, 2016 | 06:39 PM
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From: mo
Didn't know if you'd be able to reach the latch release- it's in the last picture you posted. Wondered if you might be able to wiggle or loosen by hand, maybe with a little help from some lube. Would be great to see- you are not the only one this has happened to.
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Old Aug 11, 2016 | 10:31 PM
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Yeah, I can get into it pretty easily. I've even tried using vise grips to pull the cable. Doesn't budge. Taking the bumper off.. would I be able to get to the outside of the latch then to take it off?
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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 05:06 AM
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From: mo
My little disclaimer: I have not done this, all I can offer is pics and speculation based on what I know. It will be very nice if you do get it apart to let us know what you did. There's prolly some write-ups here and there on the nets but I have yet to come across any.
Okay then.

If you can get the plastic bumper cover, trim, whatever it's called, off, then yes, you should be able to remove the two striker plate bolts that hold it to the body (not the striker itself) then the whole thing would come up with the hatch. I don't remember if you can get the plastic off with the hatch closed without removing at least the center piece of the bumper and I don't have the bumper to peruse so you'll have to figure that one out.

Here is what you are working with (it's not perfect, I shoved the plastic in place for a pic):
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Remove the bumper and you should be able to maneuver the plastic off too. It will be tucked in around the hatch so not sure how hard or easy this part will be.
You will have this:
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Which you'll need to get the two hex-head bolts off to remove the entire striker plate from the body, from underneath where they can't be seen.
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You can actually see the 3 bolts that hold the latch on but with the latch attached to the striker it won't do you any good to remove them far as I can see because of the latch being so intrusive to the hatch:

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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 05:21 AM
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Habanero, Thanks. Really, with your advice and these pictures, ima attempt to remove the bumper and such to figure this problem out sometime this weekend.. I'll keep you updated and if I have anymore questions I'll be back on here. Thank you.
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 07:45 AM
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Well everyone I got it unstuck lol �� it didn't take much, didn't drop the bumper or anything. My buddy has an 02 Limited. So he climbed in the back and played with it enough to cause tension on the handle. I was able to get my hand in the door and pulled on it while he was pulling the bottom cable and I pulling the handle. Popped right open. But holy hell I'll upload pics of the latch.. sooo much rust.. ��
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 12:27 PM
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From: mo
That's awesome! Glad you got it open and thanks for updating.
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 07:14 PM
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From: kick yer face
Thread moved to right section.
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by vital22re
Thread moved to right section.
Thanks bud.
New here. Sorry
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Old Aug 25, 2016 | 04:11 PM
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So guys if you're still following.. I've got it fixed. Replaced the lock Assembly and handle/upper rod it cost me 25$ and a 2 hrs drive to MD. Even after I replaced both it still wouldn't open.. "the hatch" so I had to bend the kinks out of the upper rod to make it work but all is well with it now. Glad the nightmare is finally over.
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98 rear hatch wont open.-20160825_200359.jpg  
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Old Aug 25, 2016 | 04:30 PM
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From: mo
Nice work!
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