98 ltd - broken cup holder (dash)
#1
98 ltd - broken cup holder (dash)
The dash mount cup holder is broken on one side. One internal spring has let go so the cup just leans over like that leaning tower in Italy . How do I get this thing apart to fix it? It kinda looks like it should slide out the front with a little prying, but I don't want to break it beyond repair.
#2
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Not too difficult but you will need to remove the radio bezel. You can access the cup holder from the rear of the bezel using a flat tip screw driver. You will see where the molded clips hold the cup holder in place. Lift slightly and you can just pull it out the front of the bezel once free. Another option is to do the cup holder mod. Here is the write up I did on mine located in the Tech section: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f126.../#post50701571
Really a simple mod to do if you are mechanically inclined. Also check in the tech section for the original mod done on the cup holder which used all the OEM brake parts but was a bit more involved, drilling and tapping holes etc. My mode was literally a plug & play mod (except for the switch mounting) You have several options on placement of switches. If you don't have a dremel and don't want to cut up the center shifter bezel, and have the switch holder location not being used by other switches, then re-mounting the switches to the driver's dash area is a great way to go as was described in Bob's write up. Between the two of our write ups you can find a great mod for your flight one gen 3 runner. If you need any other information on this mod feel free to contact me. Happy to help
Really a simple mod to do if you are mechanically inclined. Also check in the tech section for the original mod done on the cup holder which used all the OEM brake parts but was a bit more involved, drilling and tapping holes etc. My mode was literally a plug & play mod (except for the switch mounting) You have several options on placement of switches. If you don't have a dremel and don't want to cut up the center shifter bezel, and have the switch holder location not being used by other switches, then re-mounting the switches to the driver's dash area is a great way to go as was described in Bob's write up. Between the two of our write ups you can find a great mod for your flight one gen 3 runner. If you need any other information on this mod feel free to contact me. Happy to help
#3
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I second the cupholder mod. I just did it this weekend in my 96 T4R Ltd. I moved my alarm, power/ect, and rear window switch to the left side of the dash where the blanks are. I had all of the parts from a 99 (ebrake, mounting bracket and console assembly). The most difficult part was cutting the wire loom to let the switches have enough slack to mount on the dash, it was tight but I didn't have to extend any wires. VERY easy mod, the old console and ebrake parts are replaced with the 99+ stuff and it just bolts in (after trimming the lower pieces protruding off of the 99+ console). I love it and it's worth every penny, plus you have more cubby holes to put crap and a sort of secret compartment in the armrest itself.
#4
Fixed mine recently. There are one or two hidden screws behind the rectangular heater control panel. Just pull the knobs off and hook your finger into one of the round holes you have exposed and pull. The first time I pulled the radio I didn't know about these screws and almost broke the dash.
Once you remove the central dash/bezel, you will see that the cup holder slides right out the front. There are two very stiff plastic clips that need to be pushed down to do this. They are at the top/back of the cup holder, and not easily accessible from the front.
Once I removed the cup holder, it came apart with a few screws. Inside are two wire bails/springs that are held in place on plastic pegs. The pegs have a larger raised base which tapers to a much smaller diameter, and one of mine had snapped off. My fix was to dremel off the thin part of the peg leaving the raised base, and carefully drilling down through this base to accept a sheet metal screw (#4 x 5/8"). I used a pin vise to avoid breaking the small drill. The screw goes first thru the metal cover plate, thru the spring and finally thru the newly drilled hole. Any protruding tip is ground off.
After looking at it, I am sure you can remove the cup holder without taking apart the console. You just need to slide some thin strips of stiff metal into the cup holder slot so the stiff latches will be pushed down as you pull the cup holder out. In the pic I tried this with two strips of cardboard. These fit fine, but they were not stiff enough and the paper crumpled. Aluminum soda can material is probably not stiff enough unless you use a few layers, but steel can sheet metal would do the trick. The metal needs to have the end curved upward so it clears the latch as you push it in. The cup holder needs to be only half extended when you try this.
Once you remove the central dash/bezel, you will see that the cup holder slides right out the front. There are two very stiff plastic clips that need to be pushed down to do this. They are at the top/back of the cup holder, and not easily accessible from the front.
Once I removed the cup holder, it came apart with a few screws. Inside are two wire bails/springs that are held in place on plastic pegs. The pegs have a larger raised base which tapers to a much smaller diameter, and one of mine had snapped off. My fix was to dremel off the thin part of the peg leaving the raised base, and carefully drilling down through this base to accept a sheet metal screw (#4 x 5/8"). I used a pin vise to avoid breaking the small drill. The screw goes first thru the metal cover plate, thru the spring and finally thru the newly drilled hole. Any protruding tip is ground off.
After looking at it, I am sure you can remove the cup holder without taking apart the console. You just need to slide some thin strips of stiff metal into the cup holder slot so the stiff latches will be pushed down as you pull the cup holder out. In the pic I tried this with two strips of cardboard. These fit fine, but they were not stiff enough and the paper crumpled. Aluminum soda can material is probably not stiff enough unless you use a few layers, but steel can sheet metal would do the trick. The metal needs to have the end curved upward so it clears the latch as you push it in. The cup holder needs to be only half extended when you try this.
Last edited by tns1; 03-23-2014 at 09:59 AM.
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