Matt96Tacoma

Well my luck is not that great...

I went to pull the alternator and the belt was so tight I could not get the alternator out. After spending 1 hour 30 minutes and getting pissed off I cut the belt. There would be no way I would be able to get the alternator back in even if I got it out? I took it down to the local Kragen and it passed all tests. I had them check the belt size and some yahoo put a 34 inch belt in and it called for a 35. Not sure how they got it in...

I had to take all the belts off in order to put the new belt on. What a pain....
Once everything was installed I tried to crank and check for spark.

NO SPARK..

Tragic Drive

Check to see if you have voltage to the igniter. It should be the center wire I think the color is Black/red. Also check to see if you have voltage to the distributor also Black/red.
You will need to have the key turned to the on position.
If you don't have voltage check the AM2 30amp fuse under the hood.
If you have voltage check the continuity of ground at the igniter, should be terminal 4 colored black.

eddieleephd

Tragic Drive
nice to see some one with a similar year truck posting here....
Honestly I believe you are going to have to use the new distributor that you are expecting today...
Those magnets are most likely the issue...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-9...item414c948df1

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...B1996%2BTOYOTA

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/se...Distributor%29

Matt96Tacoma

Thanks Tragic for the reply. I will do that tomorrow and post my findings. When you say igniter you are referring to the ignition module right? The picture I posted earlier..

Matt96Tacoma

Thanks for the reply Eddie..

Matt96Tacoma

Checked for voltage and I have it at the Distributer and the Ingition Module. When I check for continuity on the ground it is open? I am not getting continuity. I have looked at all the ground wires and all appear to be good. If this is not grounded it would explain the NO SPARK issue. I held the tester on the 4th wire (BLACK) and held the other tester to the motor and a bolt mounted to the body and nothing....

Matt96Tacoma

Anyone have diagrams showing where all the ground wires to chassis are?

Matt96Tacoma

I see the following:

1.) Terminal to Fender
2.) Firewall to Block
3.) Ground wires (4) hooked to the Intake Manifold (Bumper Side)

Matt96Tacoma

All are tight and good....

Matt96Tacoma

Also...

When testing the ground.. I took the wiring harness off and put probe in slot 4 (black). Did you want me to leave hooked up to the igniter and put a wire in the back and check ground? Maybe this will work since the igniter is mounted directly to the body? I have to step out but will check that later. (I guess this would be the same thing as touching the body or grounded motor.)

Matt96Tacoma

I also read in another posting that the ground wire on the igniter is supposed to stay OPEN so you get a proper reading to the tach. This truck has no Tach...

Tragic Drive

You should be able to find a link to a service manual on this board. If not PM me your email and I can send the wiring diagrams.
Did you check for continuity from the battery ground to the motor?
It seems to me that if you just got the no start condition after you did a tune up that maybe something got tweaked or knocked loose.

Tragic Drive

Matt, That might be the case. I'm just going off of the wiring diagrams and I dont see an indication of where it would be open.

Matt96Tacoma

Thanks for the reply...

I have checked from neg battery to firewall, and block and have continuity. I just do not have continuity from the 4th wire (black) on the wiring harness to ground. I have touched the block, the neg terminal and it is open connection? I have done this with the ignition turned to ON.

Thanks for the diagram...

eddieleephd

if you look at the diagram there are a couple places the black wire go the first is a 4 way split the other three are data link connector and tach as well as a filter between thath and ground, so this line should be open as far as I can tell,
I would say you need to check the B+ and C- wires to see what is going on with this..
I thought you said you had that tested at the parts store??
Did you ever get that distributor you ordered??? how about visual and magnetic check between the two???

Matt96Tacoma

Hey There....

Yes, I tested the igniter (ignition module) out of the truck in the store and it passed. The distributer did not arrive as planned and I hope to get it today. I am testing the ground wire on the wiring harness that goes to the igniter. It has voltage to the igniter (black/red) and voltage to the distributor (black/red).

Can someone do me a huge favor and pull their wiring harness off the ignition module and test for continuity (closed ground) on the 4th wire (black). If it is open on yours also then this is not the issue.

Thanks Tragic/Eddie...

eddieleephd

would suggest waiting till you get the new distributor and do the checks I recommended just to not be frustrated for a few hours....

Tragic Drive

Agreed with Eddie on this, I do see an open on the noise filter. So continuity might not be there. I'd go out and check mine for you Matt, bit my 3.4 is different
Here is the starting circuit diagrams I'm using.

Matt96Tacoma

Thanks for the diagrams...
Here is the latest info...
I ran the test on the MAF just to make sure and it passed the test. I tried to test for resistance on the new distributer compared to the old but cannot test without having voltage to it. I visuallt inspected the old one and decided to just put the new one in. It fired on the first crank and idled fine...
I gave it some gas and no issues with timing. I drove it up the street and a very small sputter when I was in 3rd low rpm. I turned around and parked on my driveway and let it idle for 15 minutes. No check engine light and no timing issues. I decided to drive again and drove it across town with no sputtering and all was fine. I watched the game and just drove to the store and again a very slight sputter when I went down my street. Not sure what to make of this? Once it warmed up..no sputtering?
Why would my distributor go bad when installing a new cap & rotor? Why the intermittent running and stalling? It feel possibly there was a short in the distributer or the magnets inside did go bad. I am not sure... I have always felt very confident in my tacoma, but due to all of this, I am not sure what to think right now. I guess if it sputters again really bad I will just take it in to a shop. I have done so much...I am not sure what else to look at except for fuel injectors. I think the Check Engine Light would trigger if it was Fuel Injectors.
I am glad it is working right now. Thanks for all the info Eddie/Tragic.. I will post back tomorrow after it is driven some more and see what is what.

Matt96Tacoma

Well here is the latest update....

The next day the truck sputtered and sputtered and still no check engine light. I drove it to the dealer and told them to help me out. They called me later in the afternoon and said that all their tests PASS and there is nothing wrong at the moment. I asked them to keep it overnight and drive it in the morning. They did and called me after they drove it. He said that it sputtered once and he check the fuel pressure and diagnostics again and everything checked out. He decided to drive on the freeway for 30 minutes and no sputtering? He suggest that perhaps it was bad gas and since it now only had roughly 2 gallons left to go ahead and fill up and if it continued to bring it back in.

I filled up with premium for the hell of it and drove off. I got 1/4 mile down the road and guess what? My truck sputtered and then drove fine. I drove it 15 miles across town and ran fine. My wife then drove the truck to work later in the day and she said it sputtered once and informed me that she better not break down! At this point I have done everything possible on my own, via this forum and taken it to the dealer and still having weird issues. She left work at 10:00pm and of course she calls and tells me that the truck is sputtering all over the place. She doesn't feel she will make it home. I told her to keep driving and call me when it dies. She calls me back and I am getting ready to go get her when she tells me that she is still on the road and it is still sputtering heavy and their is a check engine light that is on. I WAS SO HAPPY! I COULDN"T BELEIVE IT! A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT FINALLY....

She made it home and I ran out there in the rain to scan the system. It scanned and found 1 code...

Closed Throttle Position Switch...

I started laughing.. I checked the TPS at least 5 times and everytime it passed. What I am thinking is that perhaps when the engine is warm the reading changes or that it is so intermittent that everytime I checked it worked but it still has its faults just not when I was testing?

I have ordered the new Sensor intead of adjusting. I should have it by 2:00pm today. I am very happy that I finally have a code to help pinpoint the problem. It is unfortunate that I have spent so much time testing and testing and not getting anywhere. I still think I had a distributor issue since replacement gave me spark but this intermittent sputtering is defintely from the TPS sensor.

Thanks for the help Eddie/ Tragic...

And for those out there in the future testing components, If it has failed completely you will be able to know from the test but if is intermittent like mine you will have to get lucky and test it when it shows the fault.