yeah me too. 5 characters?

 

You can't submit a post with less than 5 characters. I was meeting that requirement.

 

Hey Frank, do you think they will fit this Superlift upper control arm?http://community.webshots.com/photo/...10088248qHopdK

 

I'm not sure. Do you have a pic with better lighting? One way to answer this is take a close look at the inner portion of the ball joint base. Can you draw an imaginary line from the base's inner end in the direction of the hardware? Basically the spacer mimics the outer dimensions of the ball joint spacer minus that cut away portion.

BTW, for anyone who's curious, Paypal is the best method of payment. Checks are also accepted but Paypal is easier.

Frank

 

These are good questions. What I'm figuring to do is just check the thread for a head count the 3rd. I'll post the final price based on those interested and then you'll have a couple of days to pay. That Thursday and Friday I'll be taking a load of spacers to get shipped.

As I was saying, Paypal is by far the easiest way to pay. If you send a check that's fine too, I'll just ship out the spacers when it arrives.

Frank

 

So this is who we have so far:

1. KevyWevy
2. 86toyota
3. 86toyota
4. tenfourtyeight
5. Scarbro22
6. cabbage
7. WSU4Runner
8. s_wall98
9. 904Runner
10. bikeguy18974


maybes.. ?

1. Designsbyme
2. gumbo
3. Krash
4. 914runner
5. deznoches

I just finished my engine swap and need to get an exhaust made so I will check and see if I can do this right now. C'mon guys lets get 20 people!!!
Thanks

 

Yeah, $20 off would be awesome. I'm sure you could spare $109

 

The spacers on a bone stock truck will add 1.5" of travel. You can add low pro compression bumpstops for additional up travel. (I think it's around 1.5" or so) You absolutely must use the stock extension (upper) bumpstops as the CV's don't want to go any farther downward with the spacers. To get more extension travel, or droop, one would need Porshe CV's and some modified steering arms.

For those who already have the low pro upper bumpstops, like myself, shimming them .5" with some washers works great. There's pics on the website.

Frank

 

I've been looking at the thread for awhile, and wondering: Do these spacers allow the use of 33's? Has anyone done this? Probably not without trimming or a BL, I'm guessing.

Thanks.

 

I've been wondering the same thing. I'm assuming that 33x10.50s wouldnt be much of a problem but what about 12.50s? Is there anyone here that is running 33x12.50s with the spacers and a t-bar crank on top of that?
Thanks
-Shawn

I mean without a bodylift

 

So this is who we have so far:

1. KevyWevy
2. 86toyota
3. 86toyota
4. tenfourtyeight
5. Scarbro22
6. cabbage
7. WSU4Runner
8. s_wall98
9. 904Runner
10. bikeguy18974
11. aLostDawg

maybes.. ?

1. Designsbyme
2. gumbo
3. Krash
4. 914runner
5. deznoches

C'mon guys lets get 20 people!!!

 

The typical recipe for 33X12.50's is 1.5" t-bar adjust and a 1-2" BL. Sometimes minor trimming is necessary depending on rims.

The spacers will make up the 1.5" of t-bar with the addition of more suspension travel better flex/ride characteristics one does sacrifices with just the torsion adjust. The 1" BL will still be needed or replaced by trimming. I have heard of the 33X10.50's fitting better, I think without the BL, with minor trimming. I can't really say for sure though cause I have that 4" lift so 33's fit no sweat. I'd say do a search for specifics, tire fitment has come up on all the boards many times.

As for the additional t-bar adjusting. Conventional wisdom says 1.5" is has high as you want to go. You get that with the spacers. You can go higher, many do, but CV and CV boot life span gets shorter. Now some will say hey, I only 4 wheel X amount of times a year, so I get x number of years out of em' at that many miles, they are cheap on the used market anyway, so what the heck and they run over 1.5". It's up to you, I just want you to understand the consequences so you can make an informed decision.

Frank

 

yup. and what a lot of people do to reduce the wear on the cv's is to buy, rebuild, and install manual locking hubs. this way your cv's will be spinng while you have them locked (most often people only lock them when they know that they are going to be using the 4wd) but there are tons of threads on manual locking hubs.

 

I'm running 33x12.50s with no body lift but I have a 4 inch suspension lift. I do get some minor rubbing on steep decents with the wheel turned all the way, if that helps you any.

 

Im running 33x12.5s too, but I have a 3" lift + 2" body, the only minor rubbing was on the swaybar which I took off already!

 

Frank here is a better pic http://community.webshots.com/photo/...38169986XxzGRz

 

That's a close call. It looks like it will. There is one way you can tell for sure. Take a string or similar and wrap it around the perimiter of the ball joint base. If it doesn't hit anything you should be good to go. If it touches lightly, a little filing might be in order. On the upside, that a-arm doesn't have the big lip as on the stock one. If you do the string trick, basically extrude it perendicular to that underside of the arm. If it doesn't hit, the spacer won't either.

Frank

 

Do the spacers overhang the ball joint base? In the pic at the top of this thread it appears to overhang about 1/4 inch on the side I can see. Can someone please get a pic looking straight down on the spacer with the ball joint base on it? Thanks

 

Thanks alot guys. I'm not really set on 33x12.50s but figured that after the bj spacers and cruiser coils in the rear, it would be begging for some more rubber, and just wondered what all would fit. I'll settle for 32s but would like 33s for a more aggressive look and more to choose from. Thanks for the info, and I guess I'll just see what happens after I get it lifted. Later.

-Shawn

 

i figure i'll just go ahead and get a 1" body lift once its time for new tires and then just go for 33's