03-31-2016, 02:49 PM
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4WD won't disengage on 99 4Runner LTD
02-16-2017, 06:56 AM
#501
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I don't know what to say here except to look for the simple solutions which is what worked for me, thanks to Newly Awakened! Could your problem be related to old, corroded or otherwise damaged vacuum hoses and or anything connected which supplies the vacuum such as diaphragms, if applicable? Can you replace the vacuum hoses so as to start on a so-called, level playing field so as to rule that out? The reason I suggest this as in my case Toyota quality was always present; conditions, i.e. time, humidity, heat and cold, rain, snow and dirt are what no doubt had a cumulative effect and caused the corrosion on the switch terminals and switch connector on my 2002 vehicle, remedied via the contact cleaner.
I have seen others post diagrams from the service manual and I have the full set (two volumes) myself for the 2002. About the only useful thing I got from it was the diagram of the ECU. In fact, my stealership sent me the same diagram plus I've seen it on Yotatech as well. Have you applied direct current in the correct amount-- presumably 12 volts but check to be sure, to your actuators to confirm they will respond plus, if they have, have you hooked up a voltmeter to see whether current is going to the switch when you attempt to engage? If not, that might relate to the switch itself (which should of course be tested for continuity) or even the ECU, doubtful as that might be.
I know how frustrating it can be. My 4 Runner has only 84,000 miles on it and I have taken care of it (as I am sure you have with yours). It was a shock to find out it had failed as the main reason I bought it was for the 4 WD, in particular to weather the winter snows! Until the present problem was cured it was like owning half a vehicle!
I have seen others post diagrams from the service manual and I have the full set (two volumes) myself for the 2002. About the only useful thing I got from it was the diagram of the ECU. In fact, my stealership sent me the same diagram plus I've seen it on Yotatech as well. Have you applied direct current in the correct amount-- presumably 12 volts but check to be sure, to your actuators to confirm they will respond plus, if they have, have you hooked up a voltmeter to see whether current is going to the switch when you attempt to engage? If not, that might relate to the switch itself (which should of course be tested for continuity) or even the ECU, doubtful as that might be.
I know how frustrating it can be. My 4 Runner has only 84,000 miles on it and I have taken care of it (as I am sure you have with yours). It was a shock to find out it had failed as the main reason I bought it was for the 4 WD, in particular to weather the winter snows! Until the present problem was cured it was like owning half a vehicle!
Last edited by robertwall; 02-16-2017 at 06:58 AM. Reason: grammar
02-16-2017, 04:04 PM
#502
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I just got back in town where I can help you with this. My experience is with the 01 and 02 models and have had issues with both of the ones I have owned. You don't want to jump to the conclusion that your actuator is out until the very end so let's try a couple more things.
First, you need to know everything about the 4WD mode that you are stuck in. You say your lights are flashing so something isn't right. You need to get your wheels off the ground and find out exactly what is turning. I bet your transfer case is turning but we need to know if your front end is locked in. The older ones had a switch up front, a lot like the ones in the TC, that tells the ecm that the front end actually made the shift to locked. The newer ones simply send a continuity signal from the actuator back to the ecm. If it hasn't signaled a clean shift, your lights will flash and stay flashing. You can apply voltage to two of the pins on the actuator and manually shift it. On my 01, I manually shifted the front end to lock and it completed the shift process which gave me solid green lights. I then was able to press my button again and shift back to 2wd. The issue may have actually been with the continuity signal back to the ecm and could have been resolved with some contact cleaner on the actuator plug and receptacle. That's just one example of what can happen. We need to know what all components are turning first. Also, if your case is locked in, you need to have your button pressed in (4wd mode) before you try this trick. You don't want any conflict in the ecm.
The best way I have found to unlock one is to jack the vehicle up, remove the 4wd fuse (always a good idea before manually shifting a component) from the driver's side kick panel and then do the following. Make sure your button is in the 2wd position, manually unlock/verify that the front end is unlocked. You use a second battery to manually actuate it. Next, rig up a relay and manually actuate the transfer case actuator using external power. There are instructions posted for this action but if you can't find them, I can walk you through it. At this point you should have everything manually set back to 2wd mode. Plug your connectors back up and replace the fuse. Start up the truck and your lights should all go out. If the issue was with a conflict in the ecm, you should be able to shift back to 4wd. If something isn't right and your lights flash again. Start over and see what isn't locked in since you still have it jacked up.
If you are unable to move the shift forks in the transfer case using external power, and you feel confident that you did the manual shift correctly, you may actually have an issue with the actuator which involves disassembly of the case. I hope you don't have this issue. You just need to be completely sure due to the cost of the repair. Many people shell out over a thousand bucks on this only to find out that the issue was somewhere else and could have been fixed for $50.
Get if jacked up and PM me. I'll stop what I'm doing and work through it with you. I am confident, at least with the 01 and 02 models, that I can diagnose it correctly. For some reason, I actually like troubleshooting these issues.
First, you need to know everything about the 4WD mode that you are stuck in. You say your lights are flashing so something isn't right. You need to get your wheels off the ground and find out exactly what is turning. I bet your transfer case is turning but we need to know if your front end is locked in. The older ones had a switch up front, a lot like the ones in the TC, that tells the ecm that the front end actually made the shift to locked. The newer ones simply send a continuity signal from the actuator back to the ecm. If it hasn't signaled a clean shift, your lights will flash and stay flashing. You can apply voltage to two of the pins on the actuator and manually shift it. On my 01, I manually shifted the front end to lock and it completed the shift process which gave me solid green lights. I then was able to press my button again and shift back to 2wd. The issue may have actually been with the continuity signal back to the ecm and could have been resolved with some contact cleaner on the actuator plug and receptacle. That's just one example of what can happen. We need to know what all components are turning first. Also, if your case is locked in, you need to have your button pressed in (4wd mode) before you try this trick. You don't want any conflict in the ecm.
The best way I have found to unlock one is to jack the vehicle up, remove the 4wd fuse (always a good idea before manually shifting a component) from the driver's side kick panel and then do the following. Make sure your button is in the 2wd position, manually unlock/verify that the front end is unlocked. You use a second battery to manually actuate it. Next, rig up a relay and manually actuate the transfer case actuator using external power. There are instructions posted for this action but if you can't find them, I can walk you through it. At this point you should have everything manually set back to 2wd mode. Plug your connectors back up and replace the fuse. Start up the truck and your lights should all go out. If the issue was with a conflict in the ecm, you should be able to shift back to 4wd. If something isn't right and your lights flash again. Start over and see what isn't locked in since you still have it jacked up.
If you are unable to move the shift forks in the transfer case using external power, and you feel confident that you did the manual shift correctly, you may actually have an issue with the actuator which involves disassembly of the case. I hope you don't have this issue. You just need to be completely sure due to the cost of the repair. Many people shell out over a thousand bucks on this only to find out that the issue was somewhere else and could have been fixed for $50.
Get if jacked up and PM me. I'll stop what I'm doing and work through it with you. I am confident, at least with the 01 and 02 models, that I can diagnose it correctly. For some reason, I actually like troubleshooting these issues.
02-16-2017, 04:47 PM
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Charchee thanks for responding. So far I have thoroughly cleaned the connector on the ADD and the 4 switches and connectors on the T-case. All work fine with the exception of the neutral switch on top of the t case. It works but unlike the others it has to move about 3/16 on an inch before completing the ckt. the others complete the continuity check almost immediately. (actually I dont know which way is correct: immediate engagement or 3/16 of an inch engagement or maybe they both are fine or maybe all are bad)???? All have good continuity for the full stroke of the shaft in the switch. Today I checked the 4wd button on the shift lever and the button works correctly (continuity "on" position and the off position is nothing). Then I started on the ADD. With a separate battery I can get the ADD motor to move a little to the lock position but it doesnt run very long. when I reverse the motor it runs longer than it did to lock it?????? I did this several times with the same result every time. Based on driving you can feel it is def in 4 wheel drive with the the 4 tire lights and the center diff lock lights flashing. Tomorrow I will jack it up to make sure which wheels if any will spin freely per your post. Something I noticed today, when I have the car running and in neutral and shift the t-case lever from hi to lo it grinds and it never did that before. Also to give you all the facts I use 4wd very often, sometimes for several hours on the weekends so I dont think lack of use will come in to play with mine. this is the first issue that I have had with the drive train.
02-16-2017, 05:28 PM
#504
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10-4. Remove the connectors from all of the switches that you can reasonably reach and check for continuity with them installed and report your results. If it's an issue with a switch, it will likely be one for the two next to the TC actuator. Let me know what they show while they are screwed in.
Next would be to check the continuity on the two pins of the ADD actuator that send signal back to the ecm and see what they are telling the ecm. We are looking at the input signals to the ecm in these tests. They all need to match in order for the ecm to sense a complete shift and turn off the flashing lights. Getting a solid green or complete black on the dash indicator is our goal at this point.
Next would be to check the continuity on the two pins of the ADD actuator that send signal back to the ecm and see what they are telling the ecm. We are looking at the input signals to the ecm in these tests. They all need to match in order for the ecm to sense a complete shift and turn off the flashing lights. Getting a solid green or complete black on the dash indicator is our goal at this point.
02-24-2017, 05:01 PM
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ok folks mine is back on the road and working great. I checked all the switches and connectors and everything checked ok. Then I manually put the front Diff and T-case in 2wd. took reading again on all connectors and switches still ok. Everything kept going back to the ADD actuator (mine didnt read bad everytime) so I ordered one and installed it and everything works fine. Lots of PM's from Charchee giving advice and he was correct. ADD actuator
good luck guys
good luck guys
03-27-2017, 02:43 PM
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I want to thank all those that have contributed to this post. It is excellent.
My issue was with a 99 4runner. The light would flash constantly unless I was making a change to and from 4x4. IT would stop and then regardless it would come back. I tested it by raising the wheel and it wasn't going into 4x4. It would however go into 4LO but not lock the front wheels. I test with a vacuum gauge first and the switch on the fender. I couldn't get it to go into and out of 4x4 with 20inches of vacuum. I tested and found the diff switch and 2 of the transfer case switches not working. I replaced them and still nothing. I decided to recheck vacuum with the wheels in the air and as I grabbed a vacuum line I heard the 4x4 clunk.
Long story short the 2 electrical switches on the fender were not plugged in all the way. I think someone sabotaged it. I learned a lot wasted a lot of time and lost a little money.
It works perfect now.
thanks
My issue was with a 99 4runner. The light would flash constantly unless I was making a change to and from 4x4. IT would stop and then regardless it would come back. I tested it by raising the wheel and it wasn't going into 4x4. It would however go into 4LO but not lock the front wheels. I test with a vacuum gauge first and the switch on the fender. I couldn't get it to go into and out of 4x4 with 20inches of vacuum. I tested and found the diff switch and 2 of the transfer case switches not working. I replaced them and still nothing. I decided to recheck vacuum with the wheels in the air and as I grabbed a vacuum line I heard the 4x4 clunk.
Long story short the 2 electrical switches on the fender were not plugged in all the way. I think someone sabotaged it. I learned a lot wasted a lot of time and lost a little money.
It works perfect now.
thanks
07-15-2017, 01:12 AM
#509
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Me too.
I bought a new front differential switch a few weeks ago when mine was refusing to properly engage (it would go in but with a locked center) and disengage (it wouldn't go out at all, just blink).
I had verified the actuator worked because I had to put it into 4WD a couple times due to rain (no LSD and no 4WD is pretty rough) and had to get it back out by crawling under and applying 12VDC.
I put it in the shop today and had them do the diff and t-case oils and asked for a "while you're there".
It now goes in and out like new again.
I asked for the old part back and it has zero continuity when pressed so there it is.
Love cheap fixes.
I had verified the actuator worked because I had to put it into 4WD a couple times due to rain (no LSD and no 4WD is pretty rough) and had to get it back out by crawling under and applying 12VDC.
I put it in the shop today and had them do the diff and t-case oils and asked for a "while you're there".
It now goes in and out like new again.
I asked for the old part back and it has zero continuity when pressed so there it is.
Love cheap fixes.
07-15-2017, 08:01 AM
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I bought a new front differential switch a few weeks ago when mine was refusing to properly engage (it would go in but with a locked center) and disengage (it wouldn't go out at all, just blink).
I had verified the actuator worked because I had to put it into 4WD a couple times due to rain (no LSD and no 4WD is pretty rough) and had to get it back out by crawling under and applying 12VDC.
I put it in the shop today and had them do the diff and t-case oils and asked for a "while you're there".
It now goes in and out like new again.
I asked for the old part back and it has zero continuity when pressed so there it is.
Love cheap fixes.
I had verified the actuator worked because I had to put it into 4WD a couple times due to rain (no LSD and no 4WD is pretty rough) and had to get it back out by crawling under and applying 12VDC.
I put it in the shop today and had them do the diff and t-case oils and asked for a "while you're there".
It now goes in and out like new again.
I asked for the old part back and it has zero continuity when pressed so there it is.
Love cheap fixes.
I think we're talking about the same part. Regardless, you replaced yours with a new part and I made my part "new" (so to speak) by applying CRD Contact Cleaner. So far I have had one or two minor blips, i.e. it might take a few miles for the car to shift into 4 WD (which of course is actually two-wheel drive)! That was at least a month ago (probably more) and now it shifts in and out smooth as silk. Moral: As the owner's manual suggests, it's a good idea to run the vehicle regularly in 4WD mode! And frankly, I know I don't run the vehicle much, especially in the warmer month as the a/c is on a par with the engine in terms of power. (My 2011 Highlander's a/c will freeze you out within a few minutes of starting it!) Nevertheless,, I still love my 2002 4Runner!
Glad to hear there is a happy ending to your problem which will hopefully help others. The thing that ticks me off is Toyota's lack of help. They want you to go into the stealership, enrich them and still possibly have the same issue... which of course the stealership would me more than happy correct for several thousand dollars more!
10-10-2017, 07:35 AM
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You don’t happen to have those pictures still?
I've got a 99 4Runner LTD V6 with auto trans and it has the M/M - 4WD style shifter in the transfer case.
One day last week I decided to use the M/M button instead of manually shifting the lever into 4HI, and when I did the 4WD light on the dash blinks. I tried shifting it back into 2HI and the light still blinks all the time. I jacked up the 4Runner on jackstands and it is
in fact in 4WD mode and I could feel it when I had to drive on dry pavement with the front end still being engaged in 4WD. One rear tire was spinning and both front tires were spinning for a while, but then it was just the left front and rear tire spinning up in the air.
I jumpered the rear transfer case actuator with 12v on pins 2 & 3 and then reversed the polarity to run the actuator into 4WD and then back into 2WD mode. I did this several times. It worked like it should back and forth without any problems. I decided to put into 2WD mode on the rear actuator and then start up the 4Runner. The light was out and I could tell that I was in 2HI like it should be.
I tested the vacuum lines from the ADD solenoids to the front diff, and they both held 20# of vacuum and did not bleed down. I tested the line from the T to the vacuum canister in the left front wheelwell, and it held vacuum. I tested each line down at the front diff and both lines held 20# of vacuum, but I could not hear the collar in the front diff move either time. I tested the vacuum line from the intake down to the 1 way valve and it held vacuum as well.
Then I tested each ADD solenoid and the brown one had 37 ohms of resistance, and the blue one had 39 ohms of resistance. I read that they are supposed to have 38-45 ohms, so the brown valve is close to being within factory specs.
At this point since I cannot hear the collar move at the front diff actuator, I'm leaning towards it as the culprit or the brown VSV valve.
I swapped out the 4WD computer and it still is doing the same thing.
Here are the pictures;
One day last week I decided to use the M/M button instead of manually shifting the lever into 4HI, and when I did the 4WD light on the dash blinks. I tried shifting it back into 2HI and the light still blinks all the time. I jacked up the 4Runner on jackstands and it is
in fact in 4WD mode and I could feel it when I had to drive on dry pavement with the front end still being engaged in 4WD. One rear tire was spinning and both front tires were spinning for a while, but then it was just the left front and rear tire spinning up in the air.
I jumpered the rear transfer case actuator with 12v on pins 2 & 3 and then reversed the polarity to run the actuator into 4WD and then back into 2WD mode. I did this several times. It worked like it should back and forth without any problems. I decided to put into 2WD mode on the rear actuator and then start up the 4Runner. The light was out and I could tell that I was in 2HI like it should be.
I tested the vacuum lines from the ADD solenoids to the front diff, and they both held 20# of vacuum and did not bleed down. I tested the line from the T to the vacuum canister in the left front wheelwell, and it held vacuum. I tested each line down at the front diff and both lines held 20# of vacuum, but I could not hear the collar in the front diff move either time. I tested the vacuum line from the intake down to the 1 way valve and it held vacuum as well.
Then I tested each ADD solenoid and the brown one had 37 ohms of resistance, and the blue one had 39 ohms of resistance. I read that they are supposed to have 38-45 ohms, so the brown valve is close to being within factory specs.
At this point since I cannot hear the collar move at the front diff actuator, I'm leaning towards it as the culprit or the brown VSV valve.
I swapped out the 4WD computer and it still is doing the same thing.
Here are the pictures;
10-10-2017, 02:37 PM
#513
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02 4Runner 4wd
[QUOTE=Charchee;52353452]I just got back in town where I can help you with this. My experience is withthe 01 and 02 models and have had issues with both of the ones I have owned.
Never posted on the sight but use it all the time when I'm looking for solutions. Wanted to say thanks.
I have an 02 4Runner with some of the same issues y'all are discussing. Mine never went in to 4WD until I tapped the TF case actuator with a rubber mallot. After it engaged I was not able to get it to disengage until a few hours later. Didn't do much except beat on it and drive it around. Tried it again the next day and I was back in the same situation.
I pulled both the switches on the TF actuator and had good continuity on one and the other was a little shotty but still worked. I didn't get to the top side of TF case bc those switches were said to be for neutral and 4Low. Hooked everything back up and was able to get all the green lights solid and hit the center diff lock button that worked too. Tried switching it back to 2wd and bam, blinky lights again. I was able to switch it back to 4wd and get steady lights but a few times of doing that I have get the flashing lights all the time again and I'm back to square one.
I tried hooking up the battery to the TF case actuator and get nothing. I could be doing it wrong but I have the straight 6 pin and don't know which one to hook the lead up to.
So my question is charchee or anyone, are you still willing to work with someone on this issue. I don't know how to pm anyone so here's for everyone.
Thanks Guys and Gals.
Never posted on the sight but use it all the time when I'm looking for solutions. Wanted to say thanks.
I have an 02 4Runner with some of the same issues y'all are discussing. Mine never went in to 4WD until I tapped the TF case actuator with a rubber mallot. After it engaged I was not able to get it to disengage until a few hours later. Didn't do much except beat on it and drive it around. Tried it again the next day and I was back in the same situation.
I pulled both the switches on the TF actuator and had good continuity on one and the other was a little shotty but still worked. I didn't get to the top side of TF case bc those switches were said to be for neutral and 4Low. Hooked everything back up and was able to get all the green lights solid and hit the center diff lock button that worked too. Tried switching it back to 2wd and bam, blinky lights again. I was able to switch it back to 4wd and get steady lights but a few times of doing that I have get the flashing lights all the time again and I'm back to square one.
I tried hooking up the battery to the TF case actuator and get nothing. I could be doing it wrong but I have the straight 6 pin and don't know which one to hook the lead up to.
So my question is charchee or anyone, are you still willing to work with someone on this issue. I don't know how to pm anyone so here's for everyone.
Thanks Guys and Gals.
10-11-2017, 07:52 PM
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Did you clean
Did you clean all the sensors on transfer case? And do you have a sensor on your front diff course I could not find mine/ I think the older models have them. I have a 2001 limited 4x4
Okay. I'm somewhere else on this thread and think I may have found the possible issue. I reported several weeks ago how, for a second time, I separated the plug/contacts from the main sensor in question and cleaned the contacts using CRD contact cleaner. As previously I plugged the extension tube that came with the spray into the nozzle and started spraying. The tube immediately blew off although I was subsequently able to find it. I then proceeded to BATHE both the sensor terminals and, the best I could, the internal part of the collecting plug, literally soaking them both. A few days later, and since, now for at least two weeks or more, the unit continues to function flawlessly, promptly turning on and turning off mere moments after pushing the 4WD button.
I think that this describes the nature of the problem. The connections to the sensor, both at the sensor and the plug itself, need to be cleaned and more than once. Oxidization, heat, moisture all can degrade copper or other terminals, especially over a period of nearly 15 years. (Mine is a 2002 4 Runner.) So it would now appear that thoroughly cleaning the terminals on the sensor, AS WELL AS ON THE PLUG WHICH CONNECTS TO THE SENSOR, solves the problem as well as explains why cleaning the sensor's terminals only may work but only briefly.
I hope this helps. I will update if there are any additional problems. When I run the 4Runner I am constantly exercising the 4WD by shifting in and out as I travel. Again, the unit now works flawlessly!
AND AGAIN, THANKS TO FUNRUNNERGAL FOR PUTTING ME ON THE RIGHT TRACK!!!!!
I think that this describes the nature of the problem. The connections to the sensor, both at the sensor and the plug itself, need to be cleaned and more than once. Oxidization, heat, moisture all can degrade copper or other terminals, especially over a period of nearly 15 years. (Mine is a 2002 4 Runner.) So it would now appear that thoroughly cleaning the terminals on the sensor, AS WELL AS ON THE PLUG WHICH CONNECTS TO THE SENSOR, solves the problem as well as explains why cleaning the sensor's terminals only may work but only briefly.
I hope this helps. I will update if there are any additional problems. When I run the 4Runner I am constantly exercising the 4WD by shifting in and out as I travel. Again, the unit now works flawlessly!
AND AGAIN, THANKS TO FUNRUNNERGAL FOR PUTTING ME ON THE RIGHT TRACK!!!!!
10-12-2017, 12:16 PM
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02 4wd
I only cleaned the one that was giving me trouble on the TC actuator. I didn't even pull the two on top of the TF case itself. I thought those were for the neutral pos and 4Lo. If you think that will help I can give that a shot. I do not have a sensor on the front diff. I only have the straight 6 pin power adapter up there. I was able to get the truck in 4wd/AWD with the green steady lights so I can at least drive it around without binding everything up.
11-30-2017, 07:13 PM
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My head is spinning!!!
OK, so I have read all 26 pages of this post multiple times and have spent numerous hours trying to figure out why my 4wd lights have been blinking for over a year! I have a 2001 Toyota Hilux Surf, which came from Japan.
Model# GF-RZN185-GAPVK. Engine 3RZ-FE. Motor 2.7
I live in Mongolia, so there's no stealerships to deal with here. I am the mechanic!. I've changed the two switches on the rear transfer case actuator (with genuine Toyota parts)......to no avail! I have also changed the front diff actuator assembly, which is electric and NOT vacuum (again with genuine Toyota part #4140034013).....again, to no avail! I've about lost my mind with this thing. I love my Toyota but this 4wd is about to make me go crazy! Any suggestions?
Model# GF-RZN185-GAPVK. Engine 3RZ-FE. Motor 2.7
I live in Mongolia, so there's no stealerships to deal with here. I am the mechanic!. I've changed the two switches on the rear transfer case actuator (with genuine Toyota parts)......to no avail! I have also changed the front diff actuator assembly, which is electric and NOT vacuum (again with genuine Toyota part #4140034013).....again, to no avail! I've about lost my mind with this thing. I love my Toyota but this 4wd is about to make me go crazy! Any suggestions?
Last edited by Craig Portell; 11-30-2017 at 07:17 PM. Reason: Additional info
12-28-2017, 06:44 AM
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response to 4wd wont disengage on 99 4 runner limited
If you have this flashing 4 wd symbol on your 99 4 runner, try this suggested fix. it worked for me:
Replace Front Differential Indicator #3 This part can be purchased locally or even on Amazon (APDTY 711665)
REPLACES TOYOTA 84222-35070. Do it yourself (there is a you tube video) or my mechanic did it for $100.
Replace Front Differential Indicator #3 This part can be purchased locally or even on Amazon (APDTY 711665)
REPLACES TOYOTA 84222-35070. Do it yourself (there is a you tube video) or my mechanic did it for $100.
01-25-2018, 06:14 PM
#519
Registered User
Same part?
In Chicago about 5-6 weeks ago we got about a foot of snow so I decided to push my 4WD button for better traction. Well the light on the dash kept blinking and blinking and I could tell the 4WD wouldn't fully lock up. When I pushed the button again to go back into 2WD same thing, I was in limbo.
Well long story short, I took my car to the dealer and they told me that I would need a new actuator and they would have to remove the tranny and transfer case to fix the problem ($2056+tax to fix). After reading through this thread and with much help from Doug (99SC4Runner) I purchased two of the transfer indicator switches (PN 84222-12010 & PN 84222-35070). They really are the exact same part, only have two different part numbers because they go in different spots; they were about $120+change for both.
I replaced the parts myself and my 4WD worked like it should, shifted in and out without any hesitation or delay.
Follow 99SC4Runners thread if you have a similar story, I am 95% positive that you will have the same outcome as myself and others who have done so!
Well long story short, I took my car to the dealer and they told me that I would need a new actuator and they would have to remove the tranny and transfer case to fix the problem ($2056+tax to fix). After reading through this thread and with much help from Doug (99SC4Runner) I purchased two of the transfer indicator switches (PN 84222-12010 & PN 84222-35070). They really are the exact same part, only have two different part numbers because they go in different spots; they were about $120+change for both.
I replaced the parts myself and my 4WD worked like it should, shifted in and out without any hesitation or delay.
Follow 99SC4Runners thread if you have a similar story, I am 95% positive that you will have the same outcome as myself and others who have done so!
01-25-2018, 06:18 PM
#520
Registered User
Relay
OK, so I have read all 26 pages of this post multiple times and have spent numerous hours trying to figure out why my 4wd lights have been blinking for over a year! I have a 2001 Toyota Hilux Surf, which came from Japan.
Model# GF-RZN185-GAPVK. Engine 3RZ-FE. Motor 2.7
I live in Mongolia, so there's no stealerships to deal with here. I am the mechanic!. I've changed the two switches on the rear transfer case actuator (with genuine Toyota parts)......to no avail! I have also changed the front diff actuator assembly, which is electric and NOT vacuum (again with genuine Toyota part #4140034013).....again, to no avail! I've about lost my mind with this thing. I love my Toyota but this 4wd is about to make me go crazy! Any suggestions?
Model# GF-RZN185-GAPVK. Engine 3RZ-FE. Motor 2.7
I live in Mongolia, so there's no stealerships to deal with here. I am the mechanic!. I've changed the two switches on the rear transfer case actuator (with genuine Toyota parts)......to no avail! I have also changed the front diff actuator assembly, which is electric and NOT vacuum (again with genuine Toyota part #4140034013).....again, to no avail! I've about lost my mind with this thing. I love my Toyota but this 4wd is about to make me go crazy! Any suggestions?
