4:88's and 33's a good conbo?
10-01-2009, 09:53 PM
#21
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FWIW, I get better mpgs at lower elevations. I'm not hard on my rig, but not easy on it either. Just putting it out there.
Also, you won't notice the difference off the line so much. Its the top end between say 45-75mph that is the big difference. I tow a 1495lb(dry) pop-up with ease. Loaded with gear and my family I have no issues. I can set the cruise at 75mph and it will hold unless its a fairly decent grade. Even 6% grades are easily manageable in 3rd towing at 65mph.
Last edited by ScottyC; 10-01-2009 at 09:58 PM.
10-01-2009, 10:37 PM
#22
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i love my 4.88s and 285/75/16s but after reading about scottys experiences, i wish i would have gone with the 5.29s. i LOVE the added torque and feel that the highway RPMs r totally acceptable. i could stand to have them even a little higher if it meant more torque in the lower gears. i can get a consistent 20-21 mpg on the highway. 19 mixed if i dont drive like a jerk which is hard now that i have the power.
10-02-2009, 01:05 AM
#23
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Nope, that combo is worthless, and terrible. If you already bought em, though, you should pull the third members and send them to me. lol
J/K, but seriously, it is a good combo.
Oh, wait I just realized this was a 3rd gen thread.
J/K, but seriously, it is a good combo.
Oh, wait I just realized this was a 3rd gen thread.
10-02-2009, 03:11 AM
#24
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I run 4:88 gears and either 31" or 33" tires. I have a HP 4 cylinder with 5 speed and get around 21 MPG on the highway driving 70-75 MPH. I do not have to downshift on steep hills. I would not go to a higher ratio because as the gear ratio goes up the ring and pinion combos get weaker. Years ago, many of the truck magazines had tech articles about higher gear ratio R&P sets and a 4:88 was 17% weaker, 5:29 was 37% weaker, etc.
10-02-2009, 04:25 AM
#26
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Here's a good calculator, the Toyota transmissions are programed into it so just select A340F or what ever you have. http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=56784
Also keep in mind actual tire sizes vary a lot, not only new but as they wear down. A 33" mud tire has close to 1" of tread and well before its bald will actually be a 32" tire.
Also keep in mind actual tire sizes vary a lot, not only new but as they wear down. A 33" mud tire has close to 1" of tread and well before its bald will actually be a 32" tire.
10-02-2009, 07:44 AM
#28
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I recently upgraded to 4.88's and Detroit tru-trac's in the rear. I run on 33's (Toyo-MT), V6, 91' PU.
I noticed a huge difference!...especially going uphill. No more downshifting to 3rd to make up a steep incline, much more torque and a faster increase to highway speeds. Gas mileage is a little better, somewhere around 14mpg. MPG's would be a lot better if it weren't for the heavy weight of the Toyo's.
I noticed a huge difference!...especially going uphill. No more downshifting to 3rd to make up a steep incline, much more torque and a faster increase to highway speeds. Gas mileage is a little better, somewhere around 14mpg. MPG's would be a lot better if it weren't for the heavy weight of the Toyo's.
10-02-2009, 07:53 AM
#29
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As mentioned earlier, there is a BIG difference between a manual tranny and auto tranny OD gear. Lets stick to what is best for autos in a thread about autos.
10-02-2009, 11:43 AM
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xcmountain 80 is running 295s. Arn't those taller than the 255s and 285s? I think 5.29s are the way to go with 255s and an auto. I am tempted to do 4.88s with 255s and I have a manual. But I live at 7000 feet and my truck is turning into a pig faster than I like. On another note I bet you would be happy with the s/c once it is tuned in with the 4.56.
10-02-2009, 11:54 AM
#33
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as for all the talk about mpg on this thread-why not just buy a beater to drive to work with? I was getting terrible gas milage and was driving like 295+miles everyweek from school,work, and home. I would spend about 80 bucks a week in gas. So, I went on craigslist, bought me a little honda that gets 34mpg no matter how hard I drive it, and my Runner sleeps in the backyard intill the weekend when she gets to come out and play. The runner is on full coverage as a pleasure vechicle($50.00 a month) and the honda is another 60 bucks a month for insurance as my primary vechicle.
Just my 2 cents
Just my 2 cents
10-02-2009, 01:45 PM
#34
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Oh snap! I didn't mean you played with the numbers I meant anyone but you whom posted on here. Lets see your in CO so your Alt. is different which may account for better MPG and depening on your amount of ethanol mix vs. ours will change the numbers too. When I hit AL my MPG's go up but when back in FL and GA where the ethanol mix is higher the numbers decrease. I might have to spend the $400 to see if the 4:88's are worth it. Unless someone has one they want to loan me...........
A
A
10-02-2009, 02:17 PM
#35
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as for all the talk about mpg on this thread-why not just buy a beater to drive to work with? I was getting terrible gas milage and was driving like 295+miles everyweek from school,work, and home. I would spend about 80 bucks a week in gas. So, I went on craigslist, bought me a little honda that gets 34mpg no matter how hard I drive it, and my Runner sleeps in the backyard intill the weekend when she gets to come out and play. The runner is on full coverage as a pleasure vechicle($50.00 a month) and the honda is another 60 bucks a month for insurance as my primary vechicle.
Just my 2 cents
Just my 2 cents
That said, I believe the main concern regarding MPG was for longer expeditions. If you were going local, then may not matter, but going 200+ miles, few MPG difference start to add up.
10-02-2009, 02:18 PM
#36
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I have 4.88s A/T V6 with 285/75R16s and drive a decent amount. It was good the last time i drove it, but im only getting about 16 or 17 mpg. I dont remember the RPMS off the top of my head. But now that im adding a lot of weight to the truck and trailer with custom front and rear bumpers, and a lid, i wish i would have gone 5.29s to carry the weight. When i went to Wyoming in July i pulled my trailer with me, the trailer weighs prolly between 1000 - 1200 lbs, going up and down big hills with the 285s it seemed to lag a little bit. It would do it but it would down shift into 2nd sometimes and run in the 3600 rpm range until i peaked the hill. Its relatively hilly from Odenton maryland until you get to about ohio then its flat with long hills not steep. The whole trip to and from wyoming i got a pretty constant 14 mpg, not great but its not 8. The trip was 4700 miles, so 3 more MPG would have saved me some moolah. After reading everything that about ScottyC and his 5.29s, id like to go that route, and when i step up to 35s i will most definantly go to 5.29s. There is my thoughts for your penny.
Turner
Turner
Last edited by wyorunner; 10-02-2009 at 02:19 PM.
10-02-2009, 02:26 PM
#37
my vote is for 5.29s especially with the auto.
I'll be going 5.29's soon (next couple of weeks, if it all works out). I'll be running 3200rpms at 70mph, but that doesn't bother me. I've already driven across country a couple of times at 3k+ rpms
I'll be going 5.29's soon (next couple of weeks, if it all works out). I'll be running 3200rpms at 70mph, but that doesn't bother me. I've already driven across country a couple of times at 3k+ rpms
10-03-2009, 08:31 AM
#39
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I just came down from Tallahassee to West Palm last night, running 80 @ 2700 rpm's. Running anything over 3200 is pointless. and not fuel efficient. I drive 30-50k miles a year and usually between 60-83mph. The buzziness would bother me as it is just too much.
