runner89

Does anyone have a quality write-up and/or pictures of taking the plentum off the 3vze and doing a valve adjustment? About to mine for the first time, and would like any suggestions on the best way to go about this. I have read the procedure in the Chilton's book over & over, but it's still alittle vague. Also, does anyone have a list of gaskets that need to be replaced while doing this? thanks

wrenchmonster

You are brave. Please don't take this post the wrong way, I mean no offense, I'm just trying to give you an idea of what you are about to undertake. I'd read the instructions until you do understand it. Here's some things to think about: (The list should give you an idea of the seals involved)

You'll have to take off the plenum. You'll have to remove the valve cover gaskets. I think there are a few other odds and ends you'll have to get out of your way. You'll also be removing the cams. So you'll need the cam plug and seal for both cams. You'll need a way to remove the cam gears (either a holding device on the gear or an air gun). You'll be removing/installing your timing belt for this operation. To install the cam gears you'll need a way to hold the cam gear to torque them down properly. You'll need a torque wrench capable of 10-90 ft lbs for this operation. You'll need measuring equipment (mics) to measure the cam, shims and lifters. You'll also need to be familiar with how to use these tools properly and basic machining concepts of trueness (roundness) and taper. You should have a dial indicator to check your cams endplay. You should have some plastigauge to measure the cam to cam cap clearances. You may need to order shims, which can take a day or two if not in stock. Then when you get the new shims you'll have to double check your clearances again. If you're off, then more ordering and more waiting. Oh, you'll be torqueing down the cam again and may strip out some of the threads. I'm guessing the ones on the end with the small cap and the locating dowels. Be prepared to fix those threads just in case. I'm sure I'm forgetting something here.

Adjusting a bucket/shim lifter OHC setup is not easy. It requires expensive tools and a solid understanding of the relationship of the cams, lifters and valves. If you get it too tight your engine may not run at all or may run until you burn a valve. If you get it too loose you'll either make no improvement in your engines operation, it will run roughly or at best it will sound like someone is tapping a quarter on your valve covers. The adjustment has to be dead on, in the black, 100% correct. Too loose is better than too tight however.

The above are just a few things to consider. You can do this job, but being your first time you'll have to be very patient. If you still want to do this I'll gladly walk you through it.

-Wrench

Bumpin' Yota

He is not rebuilding his heads, he is merely readjusting the valve shims to keep the valve lash within spec. which is not really that hard. (No cam removal needed)

Now if you WANT to check out your cams, then yes definatly pull em and measure runout of the center journal as well as lobe height....

I have the TFSM if you need it as well.

wrenchmonster

Bumpin... Yes, true, if you have the special tool. Which I'm assuming runner89 doesn't have. I'm also making assumptions on the fact that he'd want to check everything out. I'm also guessing runner89 may have other problems that he's not telling us about, like misfires. But, you're right. It is possible to adjust w/o removing cams.

Sorry about that. I'm making assumptions and you know what "they" say about that. I'm glad you chimed in to correct me.

-Wrench

dragon564

Been down this road before....the avg joe at home will have to remove the cam shaft to change the shim height.
Have three Toyota steelership with in 30KM of my work and home and 1 4x4 shop that does toyota only, every one of the mechs that I talk with hates to do the valve adj on the 3vz eng, and only one of them does it with the cam remaining on the truck; he removes the plugs and spends alot of time cranking the motor by hand they have the special service tool (SST) for removing the shim retaining ring and an asst of shims on hand and they all still try to push the job on someone else to do it. it is a PITA

MTL_4runner

I second this. Many have asked about doing an adjustment but most of the time you leave it alone unless it is really bad. If it is, then it is suggested to change the timing belt at the same time and this way you'll have full access to the cams (ie you can remove them easily). The adjustment using the shims is the same on the 3VZE as it is on the 5VZ. The SST is a real PITA to use and I really wouldn't bother unless there is a serious out of spec issue. Ther are people with over 200k and have never done this adjustment, yet the engine runs fine.

runner89

I have ordered the special service tool(valve adjustment tool)already. The dealership has all shims in stock.
the gaskets I have are:
Plentum to lower intake
valve cover(s)
egr(the one that bolts to the exhaust manifold)
reed(the one that bolts to the exhaust manifold)
cold start injecter(all seals)
pcv grommet
throttle body to plentum(plan on cleaning the throttle body as well)
Chiltons is the only book I have with a write up of this procedure, could one of you guys P.M. me the procedure from the factory service manual? I don't plan on taking the cams off. The only thing I nervous about is taking the plentum off(getting everything removed properly) Thanks for the "this is such a B!*&^ to do post, I am very commited to doing this myself,though.

my truck runs pretty good as is(no miss fire). I have had this truck for 2 years now and drive the hell out of it. They have not been adjusted in that time. I am also pretty shure the PO hadn't done it in a while either, so i figure its about time. When i drive up passes it seems to have a little valve clatter.
I just think its time to do it.thanks for the continued help
runner

MTL_4runner

You might follow this thread because all the pics you need are there:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/3vze-top-end-rebuild-w-pics-slowly-51371/

Marc

On the 3VZE I thought you only needed to adjust the valves if they were clacking.

MTL_4runner

This is true.

Mr pogo

Not true, IIRC factory valve adjustment interval is 70K miles and its in the owners manual.

KING

Yes, it is suggested to have the valves adjusted in timed intervals; however, this is a pricey and exhausting task that can run you anywhere from the seven bills on to higher if done by a dealership.

Most, as done here, suggest unless mandatory not to undertake the task.

How to idetify if adjustment is mandatory? Besides aweful valve taping, I don't know.

The valves on the 3.0 are notoriously noisy in their nature so I do not know what would be considered aweful valve noise.

Mr pogo

OHC valve lash decreases due to normal wear, not increases. So there will be no clacking to warn of a burnt valve. Which is what will happen if valve adjustment intervals are too far apart.
Having previously adjusted plenty of Japanese OHC valve engines (including Yamaha 5 valvers) I would not remove the cam myself, if Toyota dealer mechs find it hard to do maybe they should get motorcycle dealership experience first

MTL_4runner

Most of the dealers look at you like you have two heads if you come in and ask for a valve adjustment on either of these engines.
They know it is very time consuming with very little result from the effort so a good portion of the time they say don't bother.
.....and this is coming from the dealer.

If you are a glutton for punishment, I say go for it.

Marc

You're correct it is in the manual. Like MTL RUNNER when I went to my dealer they just said if they make a racket then get them adjusted.

Ganoid

The valve adjustment on a 3.0 isnt really that bad. I usually order my shims for like $5 a piece any how so its a multiple day thing for me in that respect. I made my own tools last time I did mine so I could leave the cams in place. Once you get into the 3.0 a few times its really not that bad to work on. I have done 2 valve adjustments in the last 5k miles in an attempt to get my overpriced DOA heads to work properly so Im getting pretty familiar with it. Next week I get to pull my overpriced DOA heads and take them to a local shop and pay $500 for them to do what DOA couldnt get right for $1500. The moral of the story is that if you want to blow $2k on cyl heads and have to do the job twice I suggest DOA racing

KING

Jamie said what I said but in better phrased sentences.

I was a victim of the two headed human when I told a dealership I needed the valves adjusted.

Bumpin' Yota

Well what if your valves sound like a train wreck from 30 yards away? Or akin to thousands of firecrackers going off? LOL

SD70MAC

I have a pretty noisy valvetrain and as far as I know my truck has never had any sort of adjustments made, and I'm sitting on the edge of 200,000 miles! But since I have a rather large list of things to do to this truck when I get back home (5.5 more weeks!!!), including rebuilding the engine, I'll just wait til then. The only down side is I have to drive it all the way back home to GA first, loaded down with all my stuff and with no cruise control!

Let me know how it goes if you decide to do the adjustment since I'll be in the same boat soon!

DMG

Not true, lash increases as they wear and you will burn valves from adjusting too tight, not too loose.