As my signature says, I'm rebuilding my 3VZ........yeah, I know what most will say about this, but I have my reasons.

I was looking at the intake today thinking that I'd just run a custom pipe, but noticed that there is a "Y" split in the stock one. One end of the "Y" goes through the MAF sensor, the other side bypasses it. What's the purpose of this and will effect the engine if I only use a stright pipe through the MAF sensor when I reinstall it?

This might be kind of an odd question, but as we know, the 3VZ performance isn't the best already.....I'd hate to mess anything else up and end up with even less performance.

 

I didnt think the 3vze had a Maf sensor,it has a AFM(air flow meter )on the airbox ,but nothing in the intake piping,there is a silencer in there though.
someone will correct me if im wrong .
I am in the middle of doing my intake at the moment,i have just had some pipe bent & are trying to get some rubber fittings for it.

 

The other end of the "Y" connects to a resonator. I think it's purpose is to quite down egr gasses on thier way back through the system. You can do without the resonator, but you should hook the egr line back into your custom pipe. Your engine will not suffer from removing the resonator, but your intake will be louder when the egr valve opens up.

 

Here's how mine is plumbed with a custom air intake. I just went ahead and used small filters on the two other connections the large one is for the EGR and the one on the valve cover is just a breather it sucks gases out of the crankcase it actually gums up your intake plenium more than you think because of atomized oil sticks to the inside of it that's why I decided not to plumb it back into the intake.

 

That's a great idea. I'm going to set my valve cover breather up like that now. Thanks.

 

Thanks for the help guys. I Have heard them called MAF (Mass Airflow Sensors) and AFM (Air Flow Meters).....same thing to me as long as MAF is not confused with MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure).

I'm going to run my intake with the 2 seperate breathers for the EGR and crankcase. I had originally planned to plumb them into the intake, but the smaller breathers are a better idea, thanks.

 

I have done something similar to the intake shown it the thread above, but I did a couple of things different and I will explain why. First off, let me say this by adding a little disclaimer, I am not knocking anybody's Mod whatsoever, everybody's free to set up their engine and vehicle as they wish. I just went a little further on my Intake Mod, partly because I had the time to do so and the access to a Toyota Master Mechanic of 20 years(my neighbor) and another friend that owns a racing company. Here is my reasoning why I slightly modified the Mod. I saw a picture on here of a Intake Mod somebody made from exhaust pipe, so I made the same Mod, everthing was great until my neighbor(Toyota Man) heard it one day and said that I had an exhaust leak, I told him it was'nt an exhaust leak and showed him what I had done. He saw it and began to pick it apart immediately, then gave me a lesson in 4Runner emissions control and intake plumbing, he told me where all the tubes went, what they were for and what I could and could'nt eliminate and also how to get rid of that awful sucking noise that is produced by eliminating the Resonator box. Being a little more than disappointed I thougth about it and decided to do a little more R&D. I then went to my friend who owns a racing company and he hooked me up with a mandrel bent aluminum pipe he had from another Intake Mod, we cut it to fit, but before we hooked it up, he just happens to have an airflow machine. So we hooked up the two pipes and not only was the mandrel bent 2lbs. lighter, it also produced 30% more airflow. Now to the install, we put everything back together with the new mandrel bent pipe, plumbed it all, started it and there was that sucking sound from the resonator. It was time for a little more R&D and modification, we decided that the only way to get rid of the noise was to add the top part of the resonator back in. So we did a little more research and took an old throttle body spacer and drilled a hole in it, threw an elbow on it, made a few brackets, hooked it all up and started it, aaaahh finally with no sucking sound and another big surprise more low end power. Needless to say after farting around with this sucker for a month, I am very happy that it's all done and it runs #$@*ing great.

 

rbmc - your setup looks like the k&n that i have but nicer with the mandrel bent tubes. same plumbing though. do you get a chattering noise from the maf by any chance? i do and i dont know why

 

I messed around with this for a month and the only noises that I heard were, when the exhaust pipe that I used was rubbing on the master cylinder, it does'nt do that with the new pipe be cause the angle is different. The other noise I had was the lack of the resonator, I added it back into the setup and now it's a quiet as stock.(well almost, the headers and the exhaust make it louder)

 

So you're saying that the resonator/silencer gave you more low end torque when you installed it back into your system? So your advice would be to plump in the resonator/silencer or fab one up with my intake system, right?

Can you elaborate more on the reasons that you plumbed the EGR system and breather back into the new intake? I have all of the time in the world on my truck right now with it being down for a rebuild.

Let me ask this......do you think a custom muffler type silencer would work. Basically take a the intake pipe......drill some holes in it and sleeve it with a larger diameter pipe.......kind of like a glass pack muffler without the fiber glass.

 

I put the resonator back in because of the noise, when the truck was cold the noise would stay there until it warmed up and then come back intermintitely. Plus once it warmed up the truck is not as loud through the exhaust either, I had it running right into the back of the filter before, kinda like K&N does theirs and it would suck loads of air. As for the EGR back into the intake, I did'nt put it there, my neighbor(Toyota Man) did, he said that this is the way that it should go so that's why we plumbed it that way. I would recommend the stock resonator if you have it, because you don't want anything getting into the intake. I got lucky with the exhaust tube and elbow set up, when I had it on there, one of the nuts from the brass elbows vibrated loose and got stuck in the throttle body, boy did avoid a costly mistake.

 

I have alot of time that I can make up my ideal intake and one along the lines of what you're talking about and see which is quieter and if I can feel more power with one over the other. Either way, I'll have a better intake. I just though of the muffler type intake because I've seen them used on some sport compacts. I'll see if I can pic up some piping tomorrow and get started on it.

Actually, I need to look at how my new intake plenum is going to fit in the engine bay before I can look into building an intake. I'm using a different intake and TB.

 

I don't mind the noise but the low end torque I do miss couldn't I just drill another hole put on a fitting and plumb the EGR tube back into the intake tube?

 

My EGR line seems to have a differant stock setup to some of you i think.here is a pic.http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/2366/DSC00593.jpg

Is this what yours looked like before. I wonder if it is because of the auto.
if i was going to run the labeled hose going into the resonator into the new intake pipe , I will need to get some longer hose. which isnt a problem ,its just that it looks a little simpler on some of yours.

 

That would make things worse. You want unrestricted airflow, and a mandrel bent tube is the best thing to use. What you are talking about would create a TON of restriction and probably loose a lot of HP.

 

I asked my neighbor(Toyota Man) early today why I had to add the resonator box back in and he gave me this, maybe it will help you too in understanding why you need the top resonator box.

EGR flow should match the following under operating conditions.

HIGH EGR flow is necessary during cruising and mid-range acceleration, when combustion temperatures are typically very high.

LOW EGR flow is needed during low speed and light load conditions.

NO EGR flow should occur during conditions when EGR operation could adversely affect engine operating efficiency or vehicle driveability i.e. engine warm up, idle, wide open throttle, etc.

Another words the EGR should NOT be working under these NO EGR conditions and the top resonator box helps the EGR to do that. Hmmm go figure.

 

The airflow is the same going through the intake tube whether you have the resonator box hooked to it or not. Actually more airflow because the EGR tube is no longer sucking as much air. The set up is almost exactly the same as I had before when I had the EGR tube directly connectet to the back of the air filter. Instead, to hook up the top resonator box I added a spacer and an elbow between the filter and the air flow meter.

 

my intake tube is a generic vibrant aluminium air tube with a 22.5 deg bend you basically drill holes for what ever you are gonna run into it

 

Actually the tube is from Millen racing and was originally for a Mustang, it is mandrel bent aluminum, with the aluminum tubes welded onto the body of it with no reveal to the inside whatsoever. No reveal, No restriction.

 

still wondering what you guys think about this.