Well after paying someone to replace my axle on the drivers side a few months ago I decided to tackle this one this time and save some money since I have a few things on order for MODS coming soon...
Well thought I would share that replacing the whole front axle was actually fairly simple just remember to move over the dust cover... live and learn :pat: oh air tools are your friend.
Here is what the broken one looks like http://community.webshots.com/photo/...41763346Fsfyet
I replaced it with a complete new one from Advance Auto for $85 bucks after $45 core so well worth it and less messy than rebuilding it to just to put new boots on, plus I have been driving around a few months with the grease spitting all out since the boot ripped. Also it comes with a lifetime replacement
Also like to say Thanks to the board and its memebers for the search feature for some helpfull tips ahead of time.
Sorry didn't take any pictures during the replacement, it went so fast we had it replaced in a hour maybe less. I forgot to take pictures till after we finished.
Also there are otehr pictures in the album of the busted one and the part number. If any one has any questions just ask.

 

What not a single comment I feel so ignored

 

Good job! How easy is it to get the axle from the diff? I'll hopefully be putting my elocker in this summer and I need to replace my front diff to match the gear ratio. I got a whole housing with the front diff so I just have to remove the cv axles and unbolt the front axle housing. I read something about snap rings which need to be replaced since they are for one time use.
I am curious what the trick is to get them out? Hope you can enlighten me,
Arjan

 

you are correct a snap rig holds it place guess some times they may break during the removal process but you can just get a new one I would think. As for the secret not one really hold it as strait as you can use pry bar or screwdriver and it pops out, At first before I did this thought it be alot tougher but it was rather easy, just be sure you have a 36mm socket but also heard others needed a 35mm. Do a search there were a few writeups I read before attempting this myself.

 

going to be pulling both of them out myself this summer and try to remove the third member for the front locker

 

WT,
Here's my stupid question of the day, what exactly did you ask for at Autozone to purchase the axle assembly? Is there an Autozone part number for the whole assembly or did you describe to them what you were looking for? I was going to stop by the Autozone near me. Thanks.

 

The force rings on the inner axle ends do not need to be replaced. The axle gets pried out easy enough, you just need to know the proper method.

Which is to use two screwdrivers or pry bars, located 180 degrees opposite each other, and pry evenly away from the differential housing. The axles pop right out when done properly. When prying just one side, it is quite difficult.

 

Thanks for the replies guys, I guess I would only need the 34/35 mm socket if I want to completely remove the axle. I presume thats for the outside nut at the wheel hub.
So the procedure will be to move back the inner dust cover, then pry the cv out. My 4runner is not lifted (yet) and the cv's are pretty level when it's just sitting in the carport.

 

Check it out here, never a stupid question I got plenty of them I asked before.
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...41763523FSVXyg
Its in the album and this is the box label. I just asked them for a front axle (Both sides are the same) Think there number was #7498 on the label but there is a SKU# so I am sure they can find it.

 

No you would need to remove the axle connection to the hub (swing the hub out of the way) before you can remove the whole assembly. If thats what your asking

 

If you find your keys by then?

 

shazaad, i replaced my left front a few months ago. so if you need help i know how to do it