Well its almost time for the wife and I to drive to Colorado from Houston and I'm really not fond of the idea of driving up there in her Jeep TJ.

So with my 4runner at 300K miles I was wondering what you guys thought I should look at or replace.

I'm already going to
Replace the valve cover gaskets
Replace drivers side CV axle (and inspect bearings?)
Change all the fluids

Is there any thing I should look at or crack open or do you think I'm just stone cold crazy to drive it up there with that mileage. It still runs great with good oil pressure and very smooth transmission shifts.

Its just going to be a LONG and COLD trip and would hate to be on the side of the road.

Also if it makes a difference 90% of those miles are highway, gotta love a 100 mile round trip commute



FOG

 

Upper/Lower Ball Joints?
Steering Rack Bushings?
Tie Rods?
Flow Clean Injectors?
I'm sure if your rig has made it to 300k you know all the basic maint. stuff. Is your rig supercharged?

 

I don't really see why your rig would have any trouble especially if you have kept up with most of the routine maintenance. I have 238 k and recently drove a 2500 mile round trip.

i would just suggest to do a quick safety check. Check your tires (including air pressure), wiper blades. May want to change the plugs, wires, and air filter (if they have not been done recently for improved fuel economy; I wish I would have because the almost 2 mpg increase I am getting would have paid for all this or a lot of it. Only other thing I would really worry about is making sure your belts and houses are in good shape.

Good luck on the trip. CO is great.

 

Did all 4 ball joints and tie rod ends about 40K ago. Going to look into the steering rack bushings, I've heard some say rubber some say urethane. Any opinions on either ?

Didn't think about cleaning the injectors but since I'm going to have the intake off the engine would be really easy to pull them and have them cleaned. Does anyone recommend a good place to have them cleaned ?

Also I've heard there is a wire harness for the knock sensor that gets brittle and is good to replace while in there. Anyone have any info on this ?

And no to the supercharger just normally aspirated which is probably why I don't have any points on my license


FOG

 

You can check the rack bushings by having someone turn the wheel while your under it and if you see the rack moving side to side you need new bushings. Just get the kit from wheelers:
http://www.wheelersoffroad.com/4runnerrackbushkit.htm

Pull your injectors off and send them to witchhunter. They are the best and will put new orings on and flow test and clean the injectors.

I am having issues with my knock sensors right now. I would change them but you also have to pull the lower intake manifold off instead of just the intake plenum. It is a pain in the ass job just to change the harness. I think most people that have issues with their knock sensors are supercharged. Since your N/A I probably wouldn't worry about it.

 

just keep money in the bank so you can pick up a uhaul and a truck from entprise and hual it home if it goes down on you.. no need to pay for a costly tow truck bill

 

I'd have no issues taking mine on a long trip like that with its current mileage of 207,000.

Another injector cleaning shop favored by a lot of the Porsche guys is RC Engineering.


Andreas

 

It's like a senior citizen running a marathon. Yeah he's done it many times before, yeah it looks like he is doing good now, but he can drop from a heart attack any moment, and nobody would see it coming.

 

i got 236,k miles on my truck no signs of breaking i could drive it to california today from NC and have no worries.. except for my tires.. that need to be replaced..

 

How old is your timing belt? Would be inconvenient to have it go out on a long trip.

 

I replaced the timing belt and everything that touches it like idler pulleys, water pump, tensioner and its pulley assembly. The only thing that didn't get replaced that touches the timing belt is the camshaft pulleys and the crank pulley.

I did this about 45K miles ago.


FOG

 

sounds like you are a go--how about the major sensors--TPS, MAF, 02s'....clean TB...

Thats all i can think of--drive on my friend

And FYI--when my motor was rebuilt at 165k--the builder said the whole motor looked great--said i must have changed the oil often. Nope, 10k miles with good filters and mobile 1

 

Why the rebuild at 165K? At 165K at 3.4 is just getting broken in.

What weight mobile on do you run?

Right now I'm running 15W-40 but switching back to 5W-40 Mobil one for the winter time. Still running good oil pressure on either weight though. Hot idle is around 10-12PSI and 40PSI at 2000 RPM on the highway.

I've been thinking about installing a Amsoil by-pass filter. I know a couple guys with them and even after 15K miles the oil still looks brand new.


FOG

 

I was crashed into--so i took out the motor and hotrodded it a bit.

Thats the only reason why--even all the valve guides were good in the head.

I run 10-30--thats it

 

+1 on Witchunter.

A friend pulled his on his 2004 WRX and sent them to Witchhunter two years ago. Turnaround was 3 days. Smoother idle and better throttle response after reinstallation on his Subie.

Ever thought about using Rotella T6 5-40W? A friend uses it in his 98 T100 and after 165,000 miles, still good oil pressure.

Enjoy CO. Quite tranquil there. Take some pics and post em.....

 

i wouldnt sweat it just drive and go, you truck sound soild.. to me.. take it out and blaze new trails

 

Yes, in my older cars and now since they removed the ZDDP--i have to find a substitute....so Rotella may be in my future or i may just start running AMSoil??

But i would rock on buddy and drive it. If everything feels ok--then you are probably fine

 

Go with Mobil One 5W-40 it has 1200 and 1100ppm of zinc and phosphorus respectively.

Its ACEA and API SM rated for gasoline engines.

FOG

 

SWEET!!How did you find this out and it doesnt have to be the High mileage stuff right?

 

I have been running Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 0W-30. What are your opinions on this oil? What are the advantages to running 5W-40? Is this the 5W-40 you have been running: http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...a_M_5W-40.aspx