miike

anyone else having leak problems? i just did my 3rd t-belt (2nd h2o pump) and tried Fel-Pro gaskets. i haven't been able to get a good seal, even w/ 3 previous OE gaskets and the black Permatex goop. i've also tried HondaBond, which has worked well on the motorcycles i've done.
...it's leaking toward the rear on both sides.

ChickenLover

You know that those valve cover bolts need to be tightened in the proper sequence to only 5ft/lbs right? 4 small beads of RTV are required per cover as well. Maybe someone can post a pic from the FSM on where to apply the rtv.

MorphiasX

Here ya go... I think this is what you are talking about...

miike

yeah,
thnx for the shop manual scans but i've already checked mine to see what i keep missing...can't help but wonder if the line-bored holes that are coverd w/ a plate are leaking at the back. or, maybe it's time for my first head gasket?
i'm thinking 3.4 swap, but was hoping to get this thru 1 more jersey winter-

Bumpin' Yota

what??

Dude you said your valve covers a leaking not the headgasket. The valve cover is an EASY fix, go to your local toyota dealer and just buy them - they are rubber based then use four dabs of RVT at the indicated points.

I think you are thinking HEAD GASKET but said VALVE COVER... If so, get some copper head gaskets, have the block and heads resurfaced as well, then grab some studs and you are off to the races.

I did both valve cover gaskets and the old rubber based gaskets were as hard as rocks! lol

miike

i'm getting an engine oil leak at the rear of each head. the pass side is so bad it's starting to leave spots in the driveway. i've done several t-belts on this motor before w/ new gaskets each time, and have also put in a few valve cover gaskets to try to slow the oil leaks. i'm assuming it's the valve cover gaskets, but because of where it is it's hard to tell. i was just wondering if i'm missing something that may not be so obvious.

this truck has not had it's headgaskets done. considering what a royal pain it is to do something as simple as a t-belt on this motor (as compared to the Honda and Acura motors -including 6's- i've done), my time might be better spent on a 3.4 swap...

typical8o8

Can a regular DIY'er change valve cover gaskets on a 3vze? Also, what is RVT? TIA

ChickenLover

Sure. I did both of mine two days ago in about an hour. It really depends on how intimidated you are by your plenum. I've had mine off so many times it's a non-issue to me now. But a lot of people live in mortal fear of the day it will have to come off... And it will.

RTV is a sealant used to make gaskets and such. It's available at any auto parts store and walmart (I literally paid half the price that Kragen wanted for it by going to walmart).

toddowaddo

I just did this a couple of weeks ago, fixed my leak perfectly. I only did the driver's side though. Very easy to do. A big thanks to ChickenLover and the other guys that posted how to do this.

YotaJunky

I did my valve cover gaskets earlier this year and I've attached pics and all. Here you go:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...e+cover+gasket

Troy

nrgetic99

Don't wanna thread jack but when removing the intake plenum, do you use new banjo washers on the cold start injector and do you use a new plenum to intake gasket every time ?

Thanks

David

YotaJunky

I don't recall using any new banjo washers. There are 2 bolts that hold the injector unit to the plenum and there is a gasket between them. Disconnect the start injector wire and then simply unbolt the injector from the plenum. Be very careful when tightening the bolts. The FSM indicates only 69 in-lbs of torque. That's less than 6 ft-lbs.

I would definitely replace the plenum to intake gasket each time you remove the plenum because if you've got an air leak there, you'll have to do it all over again.

Troy

callmej75

I replaced my valve cover gaskets and only to find they still leaked. Once having my motor out I saw the problem. There is 2 bolts at the rear of the head that holds a retaining ring against a round seal at the back. You might have to loosen all bearing caps in order to get the rear one out. If you just loosen the rear bearing cap you risk breaking the cam. Just loosen them up enough to slide the rear seal out. Replace it and use high temp rtv all the way around it. Just not a bunch because you don't want to get the rear oil hole next to the bottom of the cam blocked off. Once the seal is in place then place the retaining ring back on with 2 bolts enough to hold the seal into place. Retorque the bearing cap bolts in sequence to 12ft lbs. Snug up the rear retaining ring bolts. Then move onto the valve cover gasket.

dwh91102

lets see how many questions I can answer here......
First do no over tighten the valve cover bolts, they'll leak everytime.
Second your leak is coming from the cam cover o rings on the back of the head (easy fix if you have small hands lol)
Thrid there are banjo bolts and crush washers on the cold start injector, bolt is fine as long as the threads are lol, the crush washers can be used again as longs as there not trashed.
And last, for the intake plenum gasket thats a tough one, I have seen and heard guys say they reuse them with good luck. As for myself I buys new ones, because if it leaks its gonna run like crap, and your going to have to take it back apart to put a new one in......I know this sucks, because the plenum gaskets are $$$ like 60-70. So use you own judgement, and if you do reuse it make sure its not tore up, and match the lines on the metal on the gasket back up with the plenum and intake....

callmej75

the plenum gaskets are $$$ like 60-70

Maybe the intake gaskets but not just the plenum. Plenum gasket is maybe $15 for Fel-Pro

YotaJunky

I wonder if we are all taking about the same gasket that sits between the upper intake manifold and the plenum (or air chamber) for a 3VZE. I paid $9 Canadian just a few days ago.

Troy

dmatter

I am in the Middle of a Valve Cover Gasket Job and I think My Leak is in the Cam Cover Gasket in the Rear Passenger Side. Do I need to Buy a New Gasket For the REAR BEARING CAPS Since They are not under the Valve Cover??? Or Can I Just Loosen them to Get out the Old Seal and Retorque to 12 ft/lbs?? Theyre Might not be a Gasket under the REAR BEARING CAPS I am Not Sure? I will Loosen all of the Caps to Avoid Breaking the Cam I just Need to Know if there is a Gasket Under There.

Thanks For The Advice!

callmej75

The round moon looking thing you see in the rear is that seal. Its round and has like a rubber substance around it. If it were me, I would loosen all of the bearing caps the way it is specified on the FSM. There should be a plate too on the back of that moon looking gasket that is held there by 2 bolts. I think 10mm....once you get the bearing caps loose, loosen both the bolts, only take one out to let the plate swing free to get that old one out. Put the new one in, tighten them 2 back bolts holding that plate on, then tighten the bearing caps to specs and in order. Thats how I did it.

dmatter

Greatly Appreciate it! That Sounds Perfect.

Dax