Well I wanted to ask what else can be done on this engine short of ripping it apart and rebuilding it from the ground up. I don't want to do that....

1. FIPK
2. Free Flow Cat
3. Headers
4. 2.25" Exhaust
5. Free Flow Muffler
6. ECT mod

Now come the questionables Im thinking about....

7. Larger diameter TB - Dr Z suggestion.....any ideas where I can find something like this
8. Supra fuel pump?
9. Larger AFM? --- been discussed a little but has anyone done this?
10. Ignition system?
11. Intercooler on a N/A engine??

Im brainstorming here and really wondering how to get the 3.0 up to 175-190hp at the crank without sacraficing reliability and longevity.

 

Throttle body:

http://www.doaracingengines.com/tbodies.html

DOA also has a few other goodies you might be interested in.

 

Niiiiiiiiiiiiiice! I also see they have cams, injectors, and 3.0 blocks putting up 225hp on that site....Im drooling now...lol

 

Yep, you want it, they got it...for a price.

Add up the cost of a few mods and you have the cost of a used 3.4 that you could add a $2500 supercharger.

Food for thought.

 

Hello Im new to yota tech:
SPecs:91 4runner:
magnaflow muffler
2.25' exhaust
k&N air filter
Planning on getting: FIPK, JAcobs omni magnum ignition system
What is the ECT mod and are these next items im planning worth the money? and perfomance wise?
Thanks.
Jonah
IM NEW TO PERFORMANCE UPGRADES >>>

 

You want to spend money on a 3VZE to get it up to like 190 hp?
Get a 3.4 or a supra l6. Less money, more horses, better durability, better fuel economy and easy to upgrade to even more hp.
And not so many head gaskets to replace

 

To go down the list....
FIPK....No...waste of money...do the intake silencer removal instead (ISR).

Jacobs....No...guarranteed to stop working on the trail...and you'll have to convert it back to stock Toy to get back out.

 

Electric fan will help. That's next for me!

 

I dont have the knowledge or resources for an engine swap. Anything I do has to be a stepwise progression....

fuel economy I beg to differ - im getting 17mpg with a dead O2 sensor running stupid rich. I was getting 22-24 with the 225/75/r15s and a working O2 sensor. (perhaps Im the exception but....)

Dont get me wrong I'd LOVE to swap out the 3.slow with a 2jz-gte or even a 7mgte but I have no way of accomplishing that.

Steve

 

ok i thought I'd bring this to the top....

On the oversized throttle body, they offer 3-6mm of overbore. Why would I want 3mm as opposed to 6mm?

Thanks
Steve

 

Jacobs wires are a waste!!!!!!!! Do not waste your money. I spend 80 bucks on a set and the boot that holds the plug to the wire tore and the inside medal piece pulled out!!!! I had them on for less thatn 6 months!!!!! Spend your money on anything but those pieces of crap. I don't know about the coils though, gut if their wires are any indication, don't even spend the time looking.

 

I'll bump this back up because I'm wondering the same thing.

 

6mm is for race applications.

 

I've heard that the Jacobs does help. Adds up to 10 hp and 15 lbs of torque. http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/reviews/jacobs/

 

well I would like to see some pics of your system. I just recently got a 93runner and I do performance tunning on several other cars that run 12s slips. Seems like you all have alot to learn. You can throw in a K&N and get rid of you intake silencer but that will only give you some short satisfaction. The K&N silicon used to make the filters are also known for killing MAF sensors which lead to killing your O2 sensor. So while you think your getting 15 more hp, you are just getting better throttle response from you engine and killing expensive parts in the meantime. So that "mod" is completely useless. Free Flow Cats and a new exhuast system will give you a nice sound and about 20 extra hp. But all engines are designed with a certin amount of backpresurrse from the exhuast in mind and without the backpressure your engine will perform worse. Thats why open exhaust or dump pipes arent a good idea for a japanse engine.

There was some post a while back about the TB spacer, some guy did a test and he said that spending the 150 dollars and the time to put the spacer in is not even close to worth it.

About the supra fuel pump, no need. If you were supercharging or turbocharging your engine, you would need more fuel pressure( ex. replace pump with a better one ) but because you dont need anymore fuel pressure, you will only cause more pressure to hit the regulator in the fuel system, cause it to break.

Intercooler on a N/A, now someone get me a beer. Worst way to spend money. Air comming into ur engine is the same as the abient air temp. THe reason why interncoolers are added to charging systems is because the turbo or supercharger cause the compressed air to reach a high temp than the incomming air, which causes it to cool the compressed air back to a normal temp which is better for the engine. A intercooler on a N/A would be expensive (about 600 bucks for a ˟˟˟˟ty one ) and you wouldn't be cooling the air down at all. And the intercooler would cause your engine to lag cause of the decreased flowrate.

Best mod to do for the cheapest money is to remove the engine mounted fan and replace it with an electric one and wire it to turn on with the car. The removed fan from the engine will cause the engine to have less rotating mass, which will cause the engine to spin easier, which will cause better hp and more gas mileage.

 

I never got more than 16.5 mpg from my 3VZ-E. (stock 18 mpg)
Now with the supra engine I get 21 mpg with a lot more horsepower.
I really cannot believe that a 3VZ-E with some 180 hp or so, will have the same economy as the 7M-GTE. Only when hell freezes over.
I did a lot of mods on my 3VZ-E and the fuel consumtion only got worse (not much, since it was bad to begin with). I also now several people who all have a fuel economy of about 18 mpg. Since I make a lot of miles with my Runner this swap will have paid itself back within about 1 year!!
Regular cost about 5 $ per gallon in Holland!!! What do you guys pay when you fill your baby up?

 

Is that a bad thing for trucks like ours? Or is there more that you have to do to keep the engine from running lean with all that extra air flow?

 

Never heard of that. Its the oil that temporarily causes this problem, and the 3.0 does not have a MAFS anyway.


The 3.0 has one cat. There is no way you could get 20HP from the 3.0 with a free flow cat and exhaust.


You may have been speaking about me. See my sig for more data. It was $100 BTW.

You can just increase the size of the wire, achieving the same results as a new fuel pump. An upgraded fuel pump on a stock vehicle will not cause the FPR to break. Not sure what you mean there. If anything, it will cause the engine to load up.

I disagree. The ISR mod is much cheaper and proves to have better results. The deckplate mod is also better (3.4) for the money.

 

What is the cost on the Jacobs system. I am always looking for a way to get more power out of my 3.0. Is it dependable?

I am looking to put an electric fan on soon, the Jacobs would also be nice.
Thanks
Kent

 

I had the Jacobs system on my 87 Celica GTS. IMO, it provides zero improvement. Save your money. Try upgraded wires from Magnecor.