Guys.. Where is the page for the disconects that look like "robinhoods" but run a spring in the center to keep the swaybars from rattleing???

Or what have you got saved in a folder for designs using the 3/8" orbit eye rod ends..

(I just got 4 chrome molly 3/8" ends off e-bay for $21 )

I am making some very much like Robinhoods, but I am using a smothe shaft bolt and a spring in the center.. I am also palning on using a castle nut and pins to lock the top bolt..

 

Lee,

I hope you are going to snap some pics for us once you are done!

I am still looking to get a set for my rig. I haven't been back in touch with Roger Brown lately to see how his progress is coming. Are you planning on just building a set for yourself, or are you possibly going to produce a few sets? (hint hint )

Either way, I look forward to seeing your design.

CTB

 

http://www.off-road.com/toyota/cheaptricks/swaybar2/

is this the link you were looking for? I wanted to do this but then put the poly bushings on top of and below the slider thingy in Robinhood's design. What is that slider thingy called?

steve

 

I think you're talking about the "rod end" aka heim joint.

The problem with putting a spring in there is that when compressed, the spring takes up about an inch of travel. There's only 2-3 inches for the rod end to slide without the spring. If you guys can figure something else out, great!

Steve

 

Ok.. Point taken Steve.. But 2 questions.. A) does the spring make a diffrence?? If you are fully compressed is it stuffed on the spring or is there still play?? B) do you have any noise from it banging around when disconnected??

Mine are going to be much like Steve's in design with a couple changes.. I like the idea of not having the threads where the rod end slides, and I am not going to rely on just the shaft collar set screw to hold the bushings.. I am going to compress them, mark it, remove it, and drill a hole thru the shaft collar 90 degrees to the set screw and cotter pin it. I also am going to use a locking style pin for under the rod end, and a castle nut on top (drilled and pined)

I am kinda using a little bit from each.. Yes I will take photos and I am not sure I will market them.. it would depend on a need for me to build them and the cost.. I got a good deal on the CMG rod ends but all I found prior was the standard ones which I have seen a few things on the net about them failing..

So, if you want a set, let me know and I may look into it.. Let me know early and I may be able to make a "template" bolt that is the hardest part is setting up the holes ect.. Once that is done, it is just buying the parts.. I may be able to sell them as a "buy your own" 3/8" rod ends deal too???


Here is the e-bay bid I won..

 

A) Yes, the spring does make a difference. In this pic the sway bar is at the limit of my discos.

B) Yes, the sway bar does bang around, but I haven't noticed any damage to anything...hehe, yet Seriously, I don't mind the sound and I don't think it hurts anything.

You might want to go with a nylock on top, rather than a castlenut. At first I thought that was a good idea, but then I thought of something. To eliminate any clicking onroad you have to snug that nut down and you can't do that with a castlenut. If you don't mind the clicking then go for the castlenut.

Where I would recommend a castlenut though is on the rod end itself. My nylock that holds the rodend to the swaybar keeps backing out and then everything gets sloppy and clicky.

~$5 each for your rodends, pretty good.

Steve

 

I like the castle nut idea for the rod ends.. You could be right about the top nut.. But I plan on making it all tight first and marking a hole and drilling. But who knows? I may go with a nylon nut and pin above that..

I have also orderd the low profile bump stops to go with all the Poly-bushings I have bought.. Did you ahppen to have the Energy suspension # for the tie rod bushings??

 

No, everything is stock and original. I need some low profiles though.

 

Lee, I sent you a PM