24" Magnaflow muffler installed on 98..
Aug 4, 2006 | 12:30 PM
#22
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 9,048
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From: Seattleish, WA
Originally Posted by ErikJeanna
Isn't going from 2.25" to 2.5" within their guidelines for being OK?
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/power-loss-91642/
Anyway that chart is in CI, so 3.4L = 207 cubic inches:
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q...=Google+Search
That puts you (us) on the way low end of being okay for 2.5". I related my experiences with exhaust in the other thread... I'll dupe the text here for the sake of people searching:
I went through a bunch of exhaust stuff starting about 3 years ago. I let a shop talk me into 3" pipe and a free-flow muffler. It was HORRIBLE.
A week later I was in there with the math showing them that they didn't know what they were talking about. I went down to 2.5" pipe 'cause I was planning on installing a S/C in the next couple of months. The difference movingh from 3" to 2.5" pipe was like night & day, but it was still sloogier than the stock pipe.
So, to add insult to injury, soon after the exhaust I installed Downey headers, 'cause... "I was planning on installing a S/C in the next couple of months". big mistake.
I didn't put the S/C on for almost a year. So for that year I dealt with a very weird powerband, slugy torque, no pull up top and basically a lot of wasted money hanging off of my engine. Yes, I had done the deckplate and ISR mods.
side note: The deck plate fixes an issue inherent in the design of the 3rd Gen air box. Air normally comes into the box through a tube that has a nasty elbow in it. This is starving the engine for air, hence the deckplate mod showing a constant 5-6hp gain on a dyno. While this is in effect more air, it's still normal induction - the engine will only suck in as much as it can by way of vacuum. When compared to forcing air in through a S/C or turbo - it's barely anything at all.
Anyway.. eventually, the S/C went on, and the power was INSANE, more than other S/C'd 4Runners without exhaust work & headers. I then moved to a free-flow cat, more power. I then had a REAL performance shop redo the hack job from the first shop. I stuck with 2.5" piping but when things got cleaned up my powerband smoothed out.
A week later I was in there with the math showing them that they didn't know what they were talking about. I went down to 2.5" pipe 'cause I was planning on installing a S/C in the next couple of months. The difference movingh from 3" to 2.5" pipe was like night & day, but it was still sloogier than the stock pipe.
So, to add insult to injury, soon after the exhaust I installed Downey headers, 'cause... "I was planning on installing a S/C in the next couple of months". big mistake.
I didn't put the S/C on for almost a year. So for that year I dealt with a very weird powerband, slugy torque, no pull up top and basically a lot of wasted money hanging off of my engine. Yes, I had done the deckplate and ISR mods.
side note: The deck plate fixes an issue inherent in the design of the 3rd Gen air box. Air normally comes into the box through a tube that has a nasty elbow in it. This is starving the engine for air, hence the deckplate mod showing a constant 5-6hp gain on a dyno. While this is in effect more air, it's still normal induction - the engine will only suck in as much as it can by way of vacuum. When compared to forcing air in through a S/C or turbo - it's barely anything at all.
Anyway.. eventually, the S/C went on, and the power was INSANE, more than other S/C'd 4Runners without exhaust work & headers. I then moved to a free-flow cat, more power. I then had a REAL performance shop redo the hack job from the first shop. I stuck with 2.5" piping but when things got cleaned up my powerband smoothed out.
Aug 4, 2006 | 12:39 PM
#23
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 12,261
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From: Siletz,Oregon
Originally Posted by dbikeman
Yea definitely post the p/n I need a new exhaust on my 98 and this sounds like exactly what I want. I need to find a nice tip too.
Aug 4, 2006 | 02:40 PM
#26
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 564
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From: Cleveland, TN
ah that could be very true. I didnt get under it and verify that it was that big all the way back. so if I plan on keeping my stock piping i need the 24" 2.25 inlet and outlet in the center?
Aug 4, 2006 | 03:58 PM
#27
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Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Siletz,Oregon
http://www.hottexhaust.com/AluminizedOval.htm part #12286
Aug 4, 2006 | 04:04 PM
#28
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 9,048
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From: Seattleish, WA
Originally Posted by ecchamberlin
just the very end is expanded to 2.5". The rest of the piping is 2.25. If you look closely you can see where it is enlarged about 4-6" from the exit end.
Originally Posted by dbikeman
ah that could be very true. I didnt get under it and verify that it was that big all the way back. so if I plan on keeping my stock piping i need the 24" 2.25 inlet and outlet in the center?
Last edited by midiwall; Aug 4, 2006 at 04:05 PM.
Aug 5, 2006 | 04:12 PM
#29
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 564
Likes: 0
From: Cleveland, TN
Elton thanks for the link. I ended up ordering the 18" 24" overall one after listening to it on the exhaust page. I also ordered a nice Magnaflow tip from that site too while I was there. Got both the muffler and tip for 87 bucks with free shipping. Great Deal. Im trying to decide if i need a new rear pipe while im getting the muffler and tip installed. I hope its cheap for them to weld in the muffler. I also stuck with stock 2.25 piping in hopes of getting a little power boost and better mpg
Aug 7, 2006 | 04:46 PM
#30
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Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Siletz,Oregon
i have a 3'' magnaflow tip on mine i can take a few pics if you want to see where mine is .... also i used all the stock pipe and cost about $70 to have it installed also the 18'' will sound pretty quiet for a few days then it will get louder my 18'' sounds great now that ive had it on for a few weeks
Last edited by Elton; Aug 7, 2006 at 05:04 PM.
Aug 7, 2006 | 05:40 PM
#31
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 564
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From: Cleveland, TN
Hell yea. If you can get a pic you exhaust will prolly end up looking and sounding just like mine. I hope i can get it done for less than 70 though. BTW i also ordered the 3" tip too with rolled edge
Aug 8, 2006 | 02:48 PM
#32
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 12,261
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From: Siletz,Oregon
heres a few pics of the tip i have its set back pretty far as i like it not to stick out i think it looks good where it is .... i paid 70 bucks to have every thing installed
Last edited by Elton; Aug 29, 2006 at 07:27 AM.
Aug 8, 2006 | 03:05 PM
#35
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,586
Likes: 9
From: Atlanta, GA
i found cheaper prices at www.4wheelonline.com for the mufflers, its not much but a few bucks and free shipping is always a plus!
Aug 9, 2006 | 12:36 AM
#36
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Originally Posted by nrgetic99
Magnaflow 12286.
PART #: 12286
YEAR:
DESCRIPTION: Offset/Center
2.5" Inlet/Outlet
24" Body Length, 30" Overall Length.
Retail is $153.
I paid $79 with free shipping at Summit but I notice they are $87.95 today plus shipping
David
PART #: 12286
YEAR:
DESCRIPTION: Offset/Center
2.5" Inlet/Outlet
24" Body Length, 30" Overall Length.
Retail is $153.
I paid $79 with free shipping at Summit but I notice they are $87.95 today plus shipping
David
Aug 9, 2006 | 04:33 AM
#37
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Joined: Jun 2002
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From: VA
Originally Posted by QSVeilside
Is the inlet offset? Or is the outlet offset?
With this particular Magnaflow, you can reverse it but I have used a central inlet and the outlet is offset toward the centerline of the truck.
David
