Yes, the housing is different, requires a fair bit of modding to get it right. The VSC was intorduced in 2000, and was availible on all models up from then.

 

vsc is on 01+

 

2001 and up is correct sir!

Anyway. I went back today to check the gear ratio in it. Got my hilift out and jacked the rear of the frame up so both wheel were off the ground. I could spin the wheels but the axle did not move. When I tried to move the drive shaft itself. It would only move back and forth a little bit and the front 4x4 drive shaft would move a little bit also. I could move the 4x4 shifter stub coming out of the tcase but not enough to make the front shaft not spin.

So the short version of that is that I could not check the gear ratio because I could not get the drive shaft to spin so I could count revolutions.

THinking about just trying to unbolt the drive shaft so the pinion end will spin.

Took a closer look at the brakes and other connections and it is a abs vehicle just like mine. All was same same!

 

did you get the VIN? you can check the ratio like that.

 

I actually mean't 4.56. For some reason I thought 4.88, not too sure why.

 

i saw a website that told you what info on the vin tag to look at to see your gear ratio.. someone posted it very recently but i cant find it.

anyone know what im talking about?

 

I took some numbers off the frame because the body is gone. I tried to check them but not enough digits to be a VIN. So then this guy tells me that the burned out 4Runner body sitting a couple cars down is from this frame. It was totally burned inside and out but the frame chasis shows no sign of burning. I took his word for it and checked the Vin on the Body(dash plate). Turns out the body is a 96 which I know the frame is not because of the # of body mounts. 96's only have 8 which is why you have to add a set when you buy a 4Crawler BL for example. That frame has 10 mounts.

 

One possibility to consider is after swapping the axle and regearing your front diff you could activate your rear locker with the manual control from Downey or Inchworm and avoid all the electrical issues. Like so:

http://www.inchwormgear.com/store/pr...products_id=36

 

lol. post #2...

 

wow. i need a break.

 

That inchworm site very cool. I like the simplified electric engagement option. I have heard bad things about downey's mechanical actuator kit.

I know the propper thing to do would be to regear the front also but I am not at that point with it yet. I have never ran accross anything in 4Lo that I needed more gear for. My Runner is not quick but I am not really concerned with that. I am getting 18-23 mpg with the 265/75R16's. 285's are cool but not sure if it is worth it for me.

For checking the gears ratio the manual way should I be lifting both rear tires or just one? I may go back today to do this.

 

The Inchworm site is fine and I have heard many good things about their stuff. Downey I have heard both good and bad and the last I heard they have redesigned the manual actuator so it is supposed to be better. Anyway, I have never done the "jack it up and count the rotations thing" myself so I would have to assume both. Hopefully, somebody else can chime in on that. Good luck!

 

There is alot of wrong info in this thread. The 01 and 02 have two rear brake lines and slightly different upper link bracketry and don't even have an emergency brake cable loop at all.

The two tubes are very different, 1996-2000 and 2001-2002. Look for yourself and compare the two, you will see. You will want to modify the older tube to use the two brake lines and add the extra computer stuff brackets or retro fit your 01-02 tube. FWIW, an ARB is alot eaiser. After plasma cutting two of these tubes down to bare houseing, you get to know what is there pretty good.

So once again, did you ever get the right wings from TJM?

 

http://www.sonoransteel.com/Toyota_axle_codes.html

 

Hello Steve
yes. He TJM rep had the correct T-15 wings to me within 10 days. He was very helpful.
Not really sure what you mean by "once again" I have never recieved any request from you about this being resolved or not. It is good to go though on my end.

Just trying to figure this out. I was hoping (post #1 questions) to get some answers as to the details of this swap. Thanks for dropping us some help.

 

That would be super helpful if I had the body to look at that sticker in the door jam. I will take some pic of this thing so you all have a better idea of what I am seeing.

Like I said if this swap is not the best way for me to go I will help someone else get this thing so it is not wasted. The owner has no idea what he has and that it is more than a regular rear axle/diff.

 

I e-mailed you a couple of times to see if they followed through, but did not get a response. I guess you did not get them, I e-mailed your Hotmail so maybe they ended up in spam/junk folder or something.

This swap is very possible, but it is not a direct bolt on. You will have to add some stuff from the 01-02 axle to the older axle which would be easier than cutting the 01-02 axle with a notch.

There are extra parts on the 01-02 look for them and see what your up against.

 

The frame has a vin too. Passenger side right behind the front tire.

 

Went junk yarding again today for misc parts and took pic's of the runner locker:









It is a bit rusty but that is cosmetic only. A wire wheel and some black paint and it would look new again.

May give a better idea of what I am trying to explain.
This guy is now motivated to sell it to me big time!
I am almost certain the entire rear axle could be picked up for $500 or less.

 

Get him down to $350 on the axle and take it.