2.4 Liter Low Idle
05-06-2007, 03:35 PM
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2.4 Liter Low Idle
Once my tacoma warms up it will idle between 600-650 rpms. I makes the whole truck shake. Does anyone know where the idle control is located? It is a 2001 Tacoma.
05-10-2007, 06:43 AM
#3
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Seems to be a lot of these threads lately... 
It sucks people are having this problem!
I had this problem myself for the past 6-8 months, it progressively got worse.
I finally ended up cleaning my IAC (Air Idle Control) and it made a HUGE difference. It starts up much stronger and holds a normal idle.
There is a magnet inside this switch that pivots to let more/less air inside the TB. I noticed it had collected metal shavings and was not pivoting very easily. Also, cleaning the inside of the IAC is key.
Here's a link to what I did:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f123/re-3-4l-v6-hard-start-hot-cleaned-iac-pics-92286/
EDIT... Just realized this is 2.4 L Duh. Well, you definetly have a IAC, just dont know where it is...
It sucks people are having this problem!I had this problem myself for the past 6-8 months, it progressively got worse.
I finally ended up cleaning my IAC (Air Idle Control) and it made a HUGE difference. It starts up much stronger and holds a normal idle.
There is a magnet inside this switch that pivots to let more/less air inside the TB. I noticed it had collected metal shavings and was not pivoting very easily. Also, cleaning the inside of the IAC is key.
Here's a link to what I did:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f123/re-3-4l-v6-hard-start-hot-cleaned-iac-pics-92286/
EDIT... Just realized this is 2.4 L Duh. Well, you definetly have a IAC, just dont know where it is...
Last edited by BajaRunner; 05-10-2007 at 06:45 AM.
05-10-2007, 05:53 PM
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IAC is on the bottom of the throttle body, do not need to remove the manifold, need to remove the throttle body, though.
Be careful on the gasket that you don't rip it, can use sealer putting it back together, make sure it is "sensor safe".
The IAC has hot water connections, pinch those off before removing. CAREFULLY remove 4 Philips head screws, recommend lightly hammering the screwdriver into the screws before trying to back them off, serves to break them loose and seat the screwdriver deep into the head because they are TOUGH to get off and EASY to strip.
Spray down the little rectangle shutter with carb cleaner after to pop the IAC off, you can dither the valve open and closed by using battery on the center (common) and outside pins, CAREFUL not to spark and set the carb cleaner on fire!
If you are not sure, use your finger tip to move it back and forth.
Assembly is reverse of disassembly, just pay attention and everything will be fine.
Hope this helps, sorry for the lack of details, but if you go slow it should be self explanatory. The valve is very simply, it should just simply open or close depending on current applied (three terminals) and stay in the middle at rest.
Chipsndukes
Be careful on the gasket that you don't rip it, can use sealer putting it back together, make sure it is "sensor safe".
The IAC has hot water connections, pinch those off before removing. CAREFULLY remove 4 Philips head screws, recommend lightly hammering the screwdriver into the screws before trying to back them off, serves to break them loose and seat the screwdriver deep into the head because they are TOUGH to get off and EASY to strip.
Spray down the little rectangle shutter with carb cleaner after to pop the IAC off, you can dither the valve open and closed by using battery on the center (common) and outside pins, CAREFUL not to spark and set the carb cleaner on fire!
If you are not sure, use your finger tip to move it back and forth.
Assembly is reverse of disassembly, just pay attention and everything will be fine.
Hope this helps, sorry for the lack of details, but if you go slow it should be self explanatory. The valve is very simply, it should just simply open or close depending on current applied (three terminals) and stay in the middle at rest.
Chipsndukes
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