We have a 1996 4Runner 5 speed 4x4 3.4 with 375,000 miles. We bought it 2 yrs ago when clutch would not engage. I replaced master cylinder and slave cylinder with cheap aftermarket parts Clutch has always felt weak and disengaged at the floor. It began to have hard shifting into 1st and reverse in last several months. I replaced the clutch with a cheap aftermarket set from ebay 2 weeks ago. This was my first clutch job ever. Problem is, the new clutch changed nothing but it now has a much better pedal feel.. It still won't shift into 1st gear when running . We replaced the shifter seat on the gearshift with no improvement. The clutch bracket and the firewal(extra steel plate under master cylinder by PO) look good. I put a new pilot bearing and thrust bearing in with clutch. I can get in 2nd gear with an occasional grind which makes me think clutch is not disengaging completely. When truck was still on jack stands, i pulled shift fork back with ratchet strap to see if slave cylinder was not pushing far enough but no change. Tranny shifts through all gears fine when truck not running. We love the truck but i am at a loss now. What did i do wrong? By the way, just bought a 1996 T100 4x4 5 speed 3.4 Xcab and looking forward to using it as my DD after I fix some things ( clutch/ firewall cracks, rusty oil pan, clean/paint feame).

Any thoughts on the 4runner would be greatly appreciated!

 

 

i appreciate that possibility! I will rebleed the system and see if it helps. When i put the ratchet strap on the fork, I pulled it to where the slave pin was loose and still did not change the shifting. I have seen many people question the throw distance for the slave cylinder but no answer. Do you know how far the slave cylinder is supposed to push the fork? I have considered buying the Aisin master cylinder and slave.

 

 

No crack/flex at firewall. I will pull tranny again and check clutch fork/pivot after i get T100 firewall fixed. The bent clutch fork makes the most sense in this instance. I appreciate the discussion! Thank you!

 

Unless there is some bizarre shenanigans going on like a mismatched year of trans or wrong flywheel or something. Basically when you push on the clutch the throw-out bearing isn't pressing far enough into the pressure plate. Now that can be a result of incorrect parts i.e. the wrong slave not having enough throw or the wrong pressure plate that is too short. It can also be that the hydraulic system has air in it that is compressing instead of transferring the force from the pedal to the rod of the slave. Or a damaged part, like a bent or cracked clutch fork that is loosing the motion or cracked firewall (which you say isn't flexing).

 

If you are pulling it again make sure the flywheel is smooth and flat, even if you have to take it to a machine shop to reface it. Also make sure the throwout bearing and the clips that hold it on the fork are on properly, find some pictures to go by. it has been so long I can't remember enough to talk you through how they clip on, but I saw this exact problem once on a different brand.

 

I will check the clip on the throwout bearing when I pull the tranny. I am pulling the tranny in the T100 now. I have to replace the rear seal on the T100 so I thought i could compare both clutch forks also. Flywheel is new.

 

Rereading your original info, you said the PO added steel to the firewall under the clutch pedal already to repair flex I’m assuming.

If they didn’t account for the distance the bracket relocates that point you are going to be way off on your travel.

Lets ts say they added 1/4” of plate. The pedal pivot is like 10:1. That would throw your engagement off by 2.5”. That’s a significant amount of your pedal travel.

 

UPDATE
On Tuesday we bled the master cylinder and slave cylinder without any change in the clutch pedal or shifting in the transmission. On Wednesday we received and installed new Aisin Master cylinder and slave cylinder after bleeding them on the bench. Clutch pedal was the best it has ever been! No change in shifting when test driving the 4Runner. Transmission still does not want to shift into 1st gear and difficult to shift into 2nd. When driving, I can feel clutch begin to engage approx 1.5" off the floor. I believe my next step is to rebuild or have transmission rebuilt. There was a small amount of play in input shaft when I replaced the clutch. My question is, am I able to rebuild this transmission myself?

 

 

The transmission feels fine when the truck is off. There is no crunching when the truck is not running or running. I am planning on removing the tranny again and will recheck the shift fork and throwout bearing. I have the tranny out of the T100, so I can compare the forks and things. If the input shaft has play, does that not effect shifting? I have not changed the tranny oil in the 2 years we have had it. Any chance that could effect it like this? I appreciate all the advice you have shared!

 

 

What I saw behind the master cylinder against the firewall was paper gasket material, not metal like I initially thought. I saw no flex in the firewall and the pedal bracket is still intact. The cheaper master cylinder pin bracket that attaches to pedal had some wear in it but the new one was tighter at the pin and has less play. I did not see any cracks in the pedal bracket. Would I still feel a positive clutch grab 1.5" off the floor if the clutch was not releasing completely?

 

 

What I am feeling at 1.5" off of the foor is where i feel the clutch begin to grab as the pedal is being let up. We did not have that kind of clutch feel until i replaced the Master Cylinder and slave cylinder 2 days ago. Prior to that, the clutch only seemed to take affect within 2-3" of the floor. All the things i have done so far have not changed the difficult shifting. I may be wrong, but i would think if the problem was the clutch pedal or hydraulics, the shifting would have at least changed a little with the things i have done. When it quits raining, i am planning on pulling the transmission to check the clutch fork and pivot.