WATRD

I spent some quality time installing my new NWOR 160 Amp alternator and an Optima Yellow Top battery yesterday Now when I flip on my rock lights (330w), high beams (220w), driving lights (160w) and stereo, nothing dims, even at idle

The alternator install was simple, almost a drop in. I removed the old one and dropped the 160A in. It bolted right up, but required than an additional 8 gauge wire be run from the output to the battery to handle the extra juice.

The battery took a little extra work. The terminals are standard, not reversed, so I extended the battery wires. Now when I go looking for a battery, I can look for a standard configuration battery.

I had been having trouble with the battery taking days to recover from runs, especially night runs where I used the rock lights and winch. Last night when I tested it, I was able to run the battery down with the engine off, rocklights on over a couple of hours and it only took a 30 minute drive or so to charge it back up

914runner

How much was the alternator?
Thanks

its2slo

now you have officially done the optima battery mod he he. i think your statement hits the nail right on the head!!!!

TRD 4RNR

Did you install a hight adapter?
Or how did you handle the hight difference?

Did you replace both wires?
And if so with what lengths?

My recent post on the subject

Thanks for your input

Arnold

I hope you have better luck w/ your NWOR H/O alternator than a friend of mine did. Damn thing kept dying on him and we all know how NWOR's customer service is. He eventually got tired of arguing w/ them and ended up buying another one elsewhere.

Churnd

Is this safe to do? Just buy some 8 guage wire and bolt it onto the output post of the alternator along with the original and run it straight to the battery? If so, I need to do that with my 140A alt I just got from Mr. Alternator.

WATRD

Yep. In fact, in many domestic rigs, that is how the electrical system works. Instead of going through a harness, the "B" pole on the alternator goes right to the battery.

Of course, this should only be done if the alternator is internally regulated, otherwise you will need to go through a regulator first to avoid over voltage.

It used to be that an alternator by definition was internally regulated and a generator was not. So, an alternator was a generator + regulator combination. It seems that is not entirely the case anymore

midiwall

Like Rob said, it's commonly done. Actually it's common in all sorts of high current applications.

A larger gauge wire can handle more current because it presents more surface area for the electrons to flow on (electricity flows on top of the wire, not through it). So, you can accomplish the same task (increasing the surface area) by running parallel lengths of smaller gauge wire.

Think of stranded versus solid wire, it's the same concept. A piece of 18 gauge solid wire has less surface area than a piece of 18 gauge stranded wire, and hence you'll find that the stranded wire will be rated for a higher current than the solid wire.

Gadget

Great info, thanks for sharing. Iam considering the same modifications. It is my understanding that the Yellow Top is a standard height battery and will not require the spacer tray to mount up in the stock mounts. Is that correct??

The difference between a generator and an alternator is that a generator produces DC current, an alternator produces alternating current and the regulator not only regulates output, but converts the AC current to DC for use in your vehicle.

The advantage to the alternator is the part that the brushes contact the armature. In the alternator they are completely smooth so the brushes last a very long time. In the generator, the part that the bushes contacts is segmented so there is much more wear in the brushes and that will reguire frequent replacement. Anyone remember the good old days???

Gadget

www.GadgetOnline.com

WATRD

I found that the Yellow Top was about 3/4" of an inch shy in height, so I cut a piece of 3/4" plywood and stuck it in the battery tray, under the battery. In the other dimensions, the Optima was just a bit smaller than the stock battery, so it fit in just fine. The battery clamp even lined up with the indents in the case without any hassle.

Thanks for the info on the generator/alternator thing. I remember from my Jeep days and before that I could get either for my rig, but if I got a generator, I needed an external regulator to keep the voltage choked down. If I went with the alternator, that was taken care of, but when the regulator went, it meant pulling the whole unit. I learn something every day

...and I sure remember replacing the brushes in my generator in my Baja. I used to carry two sets with me so I could sit in camp and replace them when the voltage meter started to drop off...

Tacoma Dude

*sniff sniff*
Do I smell a write up?

I think I'd appreciate one

WATRD

I am guessing I should likely put a write up together. I expected that this was a pretty straight forward alternator swap and battery exchange, but from the number of questions I got on various boards, it's pretty obvious that folks have more than a few questions.

I didn't take any photos during the install, but it's all pretty visible, so I should be able to go back and take a few photos to illustrate the write up.

If anyone is interested, I *did* take photos of the battery and the alternator prior to install. Both are on my site in the "mods" section. http://www.watrd.com/mods

Tacoma Dude

coooooooool

I know very little about alternators and batteries (truthfully, close to nothing) and would like to see something to read.

Churnd

Thanks for the help!!! I've been looking all over the place trying to figure out how to upgrade my stock cable. This will definitely be a lot easier than pulling the stock system all apart to upgrade the one wire. I'm sure a lot of people (such as Bumpin Yota)would like to know about this so a writeup would definitely be useful.

WATRD

No problem guys. I have it on my list of things to get done this week. I will try to move it up in priority as I can.

I have been rolling with the new gear for two days now and can report that the combination is a winner. The battery is REALLY hard to down, I tried with my inverter last night... And even when I do draw it down, it charges EXTREMELY quickly once the truck is started.

midiwall

Hey Rob!

What'd you end up doing about the main fuse and the wiring from the battery to the fuse box under the hood? Did all that get upgraded as well?

As you know, I'm right on your heels with doing soemthing similar. I should have my parts together late next week.

WATRD

Since neither the fusible link nor the main wire to the distirbution box are under any more load than before, they are still stock. I did, however, tie the power to the distribution box into the main battery line so I don't have the "eye" hanging off the battery clamp.

Which parts did you go with?

midiwall

Ahh... good point on the load side of things. And as I read elsewhere when someone else was doing this, if you haven't popped the link yet, then there's no reason to upgrade it since you're obviously not pulling THAT much load.


Parts wise, I know you'll wince, but I did a 150 amp alternator from Tom at MrAlternator.com. He's assured me that it's a straight drop-in, no funky brackets or wiring.

On top of that, I felt it was the best bang for the buck as I could see it. There's a lifetime warranty, it was $235 shipped, and that's against NWOR's 110 amp solution for $391.90 (includes a $70 core charge). I just couldn't see paying $400 for an alternator.

There were enough positive words here about MrA that I went for it. I'll save the old one in case I have to make use of that warranty.

I'll have it in (and air!) the next time we get together, so you can tell me what he's doing to get that much current out of a drop-in.

WATRD

I won't wince. As I mentioned, I don't have any experience with them either way, so I can't really speak on the issue. But, if it is really a direct drop in and they really honor that warantee, I would say you did pretty well for yourself

I have not popped any of the stock connections, but all of my major draws, winch, stereo, inverter, etc. Have their own fuses or circuit breakers and are on their own dedicated wiring, so as far as the stock system is concerned, it doesn't even know I have all those high-draw items.

You got bit by this thing but good, didn't you? ehhehehe

BajaTaco

Sounds great Rob

Funny you post about a new Optima yellow - I've got one of those big arse Optima D31T's on the way... should be here this week weighs 59.8 lbs. 75ah I'm going to do a dual bat. setup.

(BTW, did you get my email? I wrote back to you the other day... wondering if they aren't going through again.)