^^

What he said. You might want to be sure the metal surrounding the attach point you intend to use is free of paint. Just enough to make sure you get good contact. Words of experience speaking there.

 

roger that, I will scratch the surface real good and bolt it down tight and if Im feeling really saucy I will drop some solder on it for good luck

 

solder wont do anything, dont bother with it, just scratch it up real good with sand paper or a screwdriver

 

Sorry I was just being a smart I will be sure to scratch and bolt tight. I think Ill head to walmart tonight and get a stereo install kit al la china

 

I picked up the 1400 watt stereo installation kit from walmart for 38$. this kit contained 15ft. of 5gauge wire and a 100A fuse + box and a bunch of other junk I don't need, but was still the cheapest install I could find. I ran the wires through the hold in the firewall on the drivers side below the brake booster. There are two wires already going through a rubber boot there. Then I took off all of the panels running along the edge of the interrior and ran the wire to the back where it comes out next to inverter. You can't tell its there. Im happy with it, and I have a cheapy 110Volt 2gallon compressor that I can run off of the inverter. Yes both are low quality parts made in china, but maybe they will last for a while.
cost = 38$ for stereo install kit.
60$ for 2 gallon 110V air compressor
60$ for 800W power inverter.
total = 158$ for on board air and power.

 

Very Nice! I plan on doing something similar, but I think I'm going to try hiding the inverter, with a covered outdoor plug in the side.

 

spaugh,

over time, those screws holding your inverter will not hold and you will be constantly tightening them up. if you can, use toggle bolts



bob

 

thanks,
I will pick some up at the H depot next time Im there.

 

What's the best way to connect the power cable to the battery?

Only way I can think is to use something like this: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=263-682
But I really don't want to cut the stock battery connecter.

 

Crimp/solder an eye connector to the end of the wire and then just use the bolt on the stock battery clamp to hold it tight.

 

TRASH the stock connector and use the links below. Run NEW power wire straight from the battery to the back of the truck. Replace your tired old 8 gauge wire with new 4 gauge and then be sure to fuse off your inverter about 8-12 inches from the battery. I actually have this same setup, but I replaced BOTH my terminal with the ones shown as well as ran 1/0 gauge wire through my entire truck. BEEFY!

Positive terminal (be sure it says POSITIVE because you linked to the negative above)
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=263-681

Power cable (get 16-18 ft for running to the rear - 25ft spool is cheaper than by the foot)
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=100-919

Negative/ground cable (get 3 ft for a good ground)
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=100-196

AGU waterproof fuse holder (buy the fuse at Radio Shack)
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=070-660

Be sure to get some heat shrink and a good soldering gun... and good luck. Be sure to take some photos when you're done so we can see how it all turned out.