Hey there,
First time finally getting onto a forum with my "project"

I purchased my 87 4Runner about 8 yrs ago (2007) from my Father, who was the second owner, and he bougth it as the second owner back in 1994/95. Technically I've been in this truck for the better part of 21 years!

The rig spent some years in Wisconsin, which has caused a significant amount of rust holes, including around the windsheild.

Needless to say, there has been a lot to do, and the list only grows. I am looking forward to fully pimping this ride out, however I am still on the fence about what to do with it exactly. What I do know is that I would like to have a truck that I could drive across continents, both on road and off, with confidence. It is important for me to have both fuel efficiency, and to be able to hold my own in remote regions.

For now, I am working on at least getting the interior and exterior into good shape, and making it a better daily driver.

I have an extensive photo journal of the work that I have done, which i will begin posting once that laptop is out of sick bay.

Thanks for reading, and I look forward to collaborating and putting our heads together!

 

So, what I am working on right now is replacing the exhaust manifold.
The old manifold was leaking on the firewall end, and had a few small cracks on the top.

I don't have access to a garage or good work area right now, I am just operating out of an apartment parking space, so I am slightly limited, simply operating off of a 150' ext. cord and attempting to keep the work "low-key" as the manager requested.

While i was hoping to be able to get an LCE header, I decided that I could not afford the price tag, especially for an engine I may not sit with. I ended up getting the Dorman manifold from Napa for about $75.

As for the manifold hardware, I ran into the issue of only being able to find the correct length studs for the shorter studs, while not being able to find the longer ones, at least not from an after market manufacturer. I looked into switching from studs to bolts, as bolts are easier to find, however, my research lead me to the understanding that the studs help everything line up better, create a better seal, and the Toyota studs are the best thing to put into the head. I ended up buying all the Toyota hardware (cost about $100.... for hardware.....)


Now, one of the first questions I ran into, and still haven't really gotten a solid answer on, is: Does the Dorman manifold need any modification?
I saw that someone had said that they in fact don't actually function properly without doing some beveling inside the manifold, to create a wind tunnel to flow back into some sort exhaust recovery line? Maybe I'll have to post pictures to show exactly what I am referring to....


Then, of course, the two bolts snapped on me, even after using PB, heat, and shock, but luckily, they snapped only in the OE manifold, just after coming fully out of the head.

The studs all came out without breaking, but its seems like two, at least had had heli-coils in them. I'd like to be able to do a time-sert or something really quality, but will probably go with another set of heli-coils.

My major concerns at the moment are:
A) - Does the Dorman manifold need modification to function properly
B) - How much prep work is necessary? I haven't been able to find a brass wire-wheel brush, is it going to be okay to gently use a steel one?
C) - do I really need to get the run-out measured on the head before installing a new manifold?
D) - Do the Heli-coils need to be installed while the head is pulled? A little concerned about being able to pull the perfect drilling off without having a good guide or gravity to work with. Am I still going to get a good seal between the mating surface when there are several threads needing to be setup with heli-coils? I feel like this seems like a shoddy option.
E) - Several people have stated that they don't use gaskets, others say they don't use a sealant compound.... Personally, I was going to use both. Which method is really optimal?









This is a heli-coil right? Or did my aluminum threads just shear off?

 

heres one side of the new manifold





here's one side of the OLD manifold





and the other side of the OLD manifold





and the other side of the new manifold

 

now, if you look closely at these photos, you should notice the difference present: The old manifold has a beveled edge on the upper side of the outter lips.

I have heard that this is actually an issue, but I'd like a 2nd opinion.

Thoughts?

 

Well, I was really hoping for some input on this one, but I guess I am going to move forward with it all as follows:

I am going to drill out the stripped out bores and place a larger BOLT in place of each of those studs....

Really didn't want to go that way, but seeing as how the insert kit is $70, and I don't have that right now, I've gotta take this route.

As for cleaning the mating surface, I am just going to gently use my wire wheel on an angle grinder

In regards to the beveling issue, seeing as how no one has had a warning, I will assume it's not a big deal, and will cross my fingers.

I will also be moving forward using both high-temp silicon and the gasket



Hopefully everything will turn out okay,
and if anything doesn't, I will look at it as a learning experience

One small step backward for me,
a large step forward for Yota-kind!

 

So.....

I bought a little nylon power ball and attached it to my drill, it did a pretty nice job of cleaning up the port mating surface.






















The sad thing is, I also rented the oreilly thread restoration kit......

What a mistake.......

While the tap went into the clean hole just fine.... It sheared and stripped out the hole while backing it out, which means I now have to go even bigger.... I think the problem is that the "restoration" tap has too short of a thread. I think the external threads should still be showing outside of the bore, otherwise it kind of loses track. Just a guess though

FML.....

 

Of all the work I have done on my vehicles....

This project has been the worst....

Damn Aluminum head....

 

That's unfortunate that it stripped, but you are on the right path. I'm thinking 7/16" Chevy rocker studs? Can't remember what I used right now. Have you considered buying a rebuilt head? Might be worth it to replace the timing chain while it's apart.

 

Hey, thanks for the reply man!

Awesome, i will look into those studs

As for buying a re-maned head, I would love to do that, just don't have the funds right now :/

Was even thinking of pulling the head to bring it into a machine shop given the money, but this task has had the truck laid up for over a month now

Already bought the timing kit to do the timing job too. I bought the kit made by REPLACEMENT.

I'd love to get that LCE kit though....

 

Update:

My buddy has a re-manned head that he'll loan me if I can't get this head to work for me

The big issue with the stripping of the bore is that I had no idea how to use the tap properly; use plenty of lubricant (oil), start off nice and easy, going in just a little, and then bring it back out, then tap it deeper, and pull it back out....

hahaha


To clear up the question of using a high-temp silicone, the definitive answer is "No!"

There is a copper compound, in an aerosol canister, than can be used to fill in imperfections on the mating surfaces, and that is the closest thing to a sealant needed when working with this particular manifold


Thing should be back on the road tomorrow evening.




Once all of the shiz that is piled up in it is out, i'll get some pics for y'all

 

I dont know why you cant just buy one helicoil instead of the whole set but that is the way it is. Been in that bind myself. My local machine shop charges $25 per coil. In the long run it would be cheaper for me to buy the kit but I have him to do it.

If you dont want to do the helicoil, seems like there is a Standard stud that you will have to drill it out to the size and re tap it. Cant remember what size it is,

As far as the Dorman exhaust, I have been wanting to try it myself just never have. From what I understand it is a great replacement.

My favorite truck is my white 88 runner with red interior. You dont see many of these around.

As far as head work, my local shop charges me $35 just to see if it has any problems and can be fixed. From there it can go up considerably in price. Warped, corroded water jackets, cracks.. The first head I done cost me $210, for about $250 I could of bought a new head. Just watch the cost as it may be better to just buy a new head. These aluminum heads can have several issues. I always wondered why no one has come out with a cast head.

Just to help you with preventing exhaust leaks here is what I do. I have a tought time not getting exhaust leaks and is one reason I cut the pipe and just have it welded back up. The other things might help you with the staking, locktite, and torque really tight.

Copied....
Here is the reason I get to cut my exhaust system each time I pull the exhaust manifold. I use red locktite, then the Impact wrench and then I stake the nut to the stud. It beats having an exhaust leak at the manifold and pipe. The only leak I have to worry about is the manifold to head leaks which isnt often.

 

Whooo!

Got 'er rolling again!

So, there's a lot to learn from this one.....

1st off, if you ever get a Dorman manifold.....
Don't use any of the hardware it comes with, unless you absolutely have to....

The little bolts it came it stripped out their own threads at about 9 ft lbs....


If you have the clearance to do so (some people have exhaust returns, stoves, etc) get the long length stud only. The short ones don't leave much room for getting two nuts on to set or remove the stud. I am a little worried that those short studs will be an issue if times comes to swap out that manifold for a header.


If you ever think your threads are shot, don't worry, just go buy a tap and t-handle and reset the threads to the same pitch and size, at least start here. Chances are, unless they're totally shot, you can make everything ok




When working on the collector, remove the heat shield from next to the torsion bar, and the little wheel well flaps from the fender well, that way you have more clearance to work and see.


The little "donuts" that go between the downpipe and manifold are a real pain to get seated just right with the incline and all.... Our solution to the issue was "cementing" the rings in with some high-temp lock-tite. It worked great! No more fussing with it




Another issue came up once everything was back together.
The idle was extremely pathetic and rough. It even stalled out a few times. I had at least an 8th of a tank of gas left, but either i have a damaged/corroded intake line (in the fuel tank) or the tank filled with so much condensation and water, that the gas went bad. ( it did sit for 5-6 weeks)

We were both worried that it was some sort of vacuum leak, EGR, MAF sensor, or timing issue but my buddy Bret suggested we rule out the possibility of a poor fuel pickup line....
I'll be watching for the same symptoms next fill up


After we wrapped up the exhaust stuff, there is still a leak betwenn the manifold and the down pipe, which I will address ASAP




I also threw some my other set of wheels and tires on the "rig" today, and fixed an issue with my back seats.




Realllllly glad to be rolling again!!

 

I really wanted to follow your advice here, and suggested it to my buddy that came up to help on the project.

I'm not exactly sure why we didn't cut the down-pipe, near the cat somewhere. It would have made things so much easier to mate those two out of the vehcile!

Great advice!



and thank you for your post =)





Yeah! this truck has been mostly pretty great.
I actually swapped most of the red interior out into one of the black 4Runners I had, and stole most of it's grey interior.


I'll be posting pics soon, but first a good cleaning


(just fyi, it's not in good shape this year :/

 

Great to hear you got it rolling again, good job!!