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xxxtreme22r's 1987 Pickup Build-Up Thread

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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 01:21 PM
  #481  
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From: Wilkes-Barre, PA, USA
These front bushings just aren't coming out. Gonna have to pay someone to get em out, if I have screwed it up too much for them to come out. Sawzall isn't gonna cut it, prying on the loops isn't gonna free the rusted bushing either. Only way I see the thing coming out is in a press. And I don't have anything large enough to attempt it with a vice. Everything I have is smaller than the 40mm bushing. Oh well.
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 02:21 PM
  #482  
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oh yeah, I got the ES bushings. A&A was nice enough to match the Autozone price and I was able to pick them up at the warehouse about 15 minutes away. Lets just hope the old old bolts come of of the truck.




Lookie here, one out, so I guess I only have one to pay to take one out. Broke a chisel, 1 large screwdriver and somewhat chipped one of my new breaker bars, but it's out with the help of a little propane torch. Thanks for the torch again Jerry. BTW, I don't remember anyone else's on here looking like this when they took them out. lol.

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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 05:12 PM
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Started on the other bushing. I am NOT about to let these things beat me. Girlfriend still thinks I am just out to impress you guys, but whatever.

Jerry you sure that blade is sharp on the sawzall?
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 05:16 PM
  #484  
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Originally Posted by xxxtreme22r
Started on the other bushing. I am NOT about to let these things beat me. Girlfriend still thinks I am just out to impress you guys, but whatever.

Jerry you sure that blade is sharp on the sawzall?

if it's that weird one, I only ever used it on those swaybar things.
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 05:18 PM
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but....come to think of it.....i think i only had the coarse wood blades and that weird loking metal cutting blade........might be better off buying some blades for it. I only ever used it for cutting wood and stuff in the old house and the swaybar
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 05:19 PM
  #486  
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yeah it's that weird one. Maybe it's not supposed to cut as fast as I think it should?
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 05:20 PM
  #487  
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Dang, too bad the post office is so slow, ...I have 2 Diablo Blades, sitting right here, ......oh well, lol.

How's it comin, B?

PS> We know it's not that you're trying to impress us. Sure, it might be, like usual with us guys, some silly think like "I HAVE TO FINISH THIS, IT WILL NOT BEAT ME!!!!!", while knuckles are bleeding and bones are creeking, ...but it would apply whether 'the guys' were watching or not! hahaha. I think I'm living proof of that, eh? lol.

Last edited by ChefYota4x4; Mar 1, 2011 at 05:21 PM.
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 05:22 PM
  #488  
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PS> Those Diablo Blades? They cut through my upper bump stops in the rear, the metal, in just over 1 Minute! lol.
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 05:27 PM
  #489  
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I apologize....I never checked to see what blades I had. That blade , I think, may be for cast iron or something (looks like a bead of sandy caulk as a blade surface).....but like i said, it worked for me. you may actually need the actual metal-cutting blades
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 05:29 PM
  #490  
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yup that's the one Jerry, it's not a toothed blade, it's more like an abrasive.
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 05:32 PM
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yup...like this one. that's the problem. my bad. my bad.

http://www.csnstores.com/asp/show_de...sp?sku=OCB1708
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 05:36 PM
  #492  
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well it does say metal brick and cast iron on the package. lol. Girlfriend says "So it's not a sawzall it's a sawzalmostall?" LMAO.
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 05:42 PM
  #493  
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this is the exact one that's in the saw now. http://www.faucetdirect.com/milwauke...-blade/p260881

Medium and coarse grits for cutting hardwood flooring, cast iron, stainless steel, fiberglass materials, (polyesters, epoxies, melamines), ceramic tile, stone, slate, clay pipe, carbon, brick, plaster, marble, and chalkboard.

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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 05:47 PM
  #494  
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these are the other ones: http://www.toolup.com/milwaukee_48-0...de-5-pack.aspx

Teeth Per Inch: 8/12
• Material: Bi-Metal
• Applications: All purpose blade for cutting all woods, nail embedded woods, composition material, plastic, ferrous and non-ferrous metals, and cast iron

Me>> <<Jerry
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 05:50 PM
  #495  
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yep...i never even looked to see what i had in there. i use it so infrequently. it was one of those "i need" kinda purchases. sorry.
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 05:57 PM
  #496  
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if one of those other blades don't work, I am gonna pick one of these up: http://www.lowes.com/pd_121874-70-DW...rocating%20Saw
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 06:31 PM
  #497  
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They make all kinds of different blades. You need one for a hard metal not Cast or sheet metal. I had a hell of a time trying to cut my swaybar link joints. Ended up cutting the bolts off because it was hardened steel for the lil ball joint thingy on the sway bar.
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 10:33 PM
  #498  
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http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...cStoreNum=1002

Telling ya, B, ...these cut through that 1/8"-3/16" steel like butter! lol..... I know, they're not cheap, but even after that, they're still like new!

My neighbor was using these, and they cut just as fast, maybe faster....

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053

Last edited by ChefYota4x4; Mar 1, 2011 at 10:36 PM.
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Old Mar 2, 2011 | 02:54 AM
  #499  
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that's what you need.....I've cut apart many cars, trucks and even a school bus with one of these saws when I was with the fire department
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Old Mar 2, 2011 | 05:53 AM
  #500  
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Man > Toyoda But only when using a steel cutting blade and not one meant for firberglass or brick. LMAO.

My work area yesterday





My work area last night when it got dark




Note to self, make sure there is not a fiberglass/brick/cast-iron blade in borrowed saw to cut steel.




This is the only tool with the exception of the sawzall and Harbor Freight Pittsburgh Prybars that I didn't break.





Burn Baby Burn




Last bushing out.


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