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wannaBwheelin's 1987 turbo 4runner build

Old 07-05-2012, 07:32 PM
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wannaBwheelin's 1987 turbo 4runner build

Well I thought it was about time to start a build thread for my 1987 turbo 4runner, I bought it last winter for $2500 bucks. its turned into quite the project. I had the intentions of simply fixing the bad head gasket and then driving it but the deeper I tore into the engine the worse it was getting. I knew it had a cracked exhaust manifold but that was no biggie to me, then I found out that the turbo exhaust housing was cracked and the head had two badly burnt valves so I decided to build up the engine with a t3/t4 turbo arp studs and the whole nine yards, well then I got down to the bare block and found out that the block was split right down the front! so I searched out craigslist and found a complete short block for 50 bucks! score! so here's some pics to get yall started soon too come! (hopefully... Haha!)
new 4runner next to my 86' truck


its really clean over all



Gotta love the old skool digital dash!

The whole reason that I bought the truck haha!

The two badly burnt valves I don't have a clue how they can get this screwed up??



Here you can see the crack in the exhaust manifold next to the plug wires little did I know that it was cracked all the way around

the sharpie mark highlights the crack right down the middle of the block

New block awaiting some go fast goodies next to my new coffee table haha!

I have one question for yall Im not sure what the little yellow screw valve is on the side of the upper intake plenum in the center of this picture anybody know what it is and what it does if you adjust it?

Thanks!
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Old 07-06-2012, 01:56 PM
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Nice score on the Turbo runner! Id love to pick up one of those someday! That thing looks pretty clean inside and out!, sucks about the cracked block tho, it should be a sweet ride when your done with the motor swap!
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Old 07-06-2012, 02:26 PM
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Nice rig I like the turbos for the gauges too lol, the yellow screw is ur idle air control valve? I can't remember maybe wrong name, but I know it's what adjust your idle when the ac is on.
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Old 07-09-2012, 09:08 PM
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Okay Thanks! i wasn't sure what it was for my truck didn't have one but it didn't have AC either! haha! I should be ordering ARP head and main studs tomorrow!
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Old 07-10-2012, 08:52 PM
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Just ordered my main and head studs today hopefully I can get my head back from the machine shop soon so that i can get to putting her back together!
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Old 07-12-2012, 06:03 AM
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Both trucks look great. I have only seen one with your digital dash. I know they exist, just not many. The yellow screw is for AC.
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Old 07-12-2012, 11:19 AM
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i love the RET's, lookin' forward to reading about your build. subscribed
btw, what front bumper do you have on your black truck?
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Old 07-12-2012, 07:52 PM
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The bumper on the black truck is one that I fabbed up last September it has a receiver where the licence plate is located that is welded to the frame and a pull pin setup that allows me to reach under the corner of the bumper and pull a lever to remove the licence plate and slide in my winch setup.
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Old 07-12-2012, 07:54 PM
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I dig the digital dash they only came in the 4runner from the factory and sadly they only came with the automatic too but all the bracketry is under the dash to hang a clutch pedal
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Old 07-13-2012, 06:39 AM
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well done on the bumper, i really like it. might have to steel some of the design when i do mine..

Originally Posted by wannaBwheelin' View Post
I dig the digital dash they only came in the 4runner from the factory and sadly they only came with the automatic too but all the bracketry is under the dash to hang a clutch pedal
ya those guages are really cool, i've only seen 1 or 2 so they must be pretty rare. depends on what your building the truck for but if you've got the power for it the auto would be nice for wheelin, there's a lot of times i wish mine was auto even with the gearing. the 5 speed is definitely nice for the highway though
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Old 07-16-2012, 09:05 PM
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Thanks man, it took me a good couple months to design and build it well it would have been less time if i wasnt distracted with friends coming over to "help" me haha!
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Old 07-28-2012, 08:14 PM
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Update.

So I ordered my ARP head and main studs, and while I was waiting for those to show up I got a lil carried away and started to polish the valve cover, the head studs showed up and my mains were on back order til the 27 of july. Last week I received a letter in the mail saying my mains were still on back order and wouldn't be in til the 24th of august!!
Head studs

and what my boredom lead to haha!

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Old 10-10-2012, 08:31 PM
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Any update????
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Old 10-10-2012, 08:58 PM
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Its sllllloooooowwwwllyyy coming together I started back up at school so my flow of cash has halted for the most part haha! I ordered main and head studs back in July and I finally received my Main studs a couple weeks ago Im now ordering my T3/T4 turbo and manifold kit. I do have all the small stuff blasted and painted waiting to go on to the engine once I get it back from the machine shop. My machine guy takes his sweet time with my engines but he does a great job and usually gives me a discount haha!
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Old 10-11-2012, 05:28 AM
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usually a burnt up valve in a turbo application is a result of running lean. depending where those cylinders are, it could be an issue with fuel flow as well. if they are on the back side of the rail (last 2 cylinders to receive fuel) that may be the issue. a higher flowing fuel pump or a larger diameter fuel rail could resolve that. this is assuming its a fuel starvation issue. good luck.
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Old 10-12-2012, 08:00 AM
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Great looking runner. I love those turbo engines my buddy picked up an 87 single cab with the rte in it. I will have to forward him this build. He wants to run the t3 on his.
I also turned my old block into a coffee table. Painted it grabber green and threw a piece of glass I had on it. Will be keeping an eye on this one.
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Old 10-13-2012, 10:39 AM
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The burnt valves are in cylinders one and two. I plan on going to a bigger fuel pump and bigger injectors when I throw the bigger turbo at it.
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Old 09-09-2013, 08:50 PM
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I know that its been eons since I've updated the thread but with school workin 50hrs a week and un-expected bills ive made a small bit of progress. I ordered and received a flange kit from LC and let me tell ya it is worth every penny the quality of the pieces were outstanding. I picked up a Turbonetics t3 turbo in .63 A/R trim which is the perfect size for the engine. For the waste gate I went with a precision external in the 39mm variety, which from my research has told me is competitive with a tial one. I also snagged a J2 engineering inter-cooler off of ebay to go behind the lower valance which will soon be dissected to hide it to be more of a sleeper. on to the pics!!
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I took the Intake manifold into school and used the CNC to put a unique spin on the factory lettering on the intake

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mock up of the header all stainless tubing and hand built collector

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pretty close to the final product, the header is 90 percent there only needing the wastegate added on (currently finished and just missing the picture haha!) and the down pipe all finished up minus the addition of the wastegate dump tube.

With the top mount turbo I felt it was necessary to reroute the rear heater lines around the brake booster and to avoid the heat.
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This is the that was lower down on the rear heater hose that was repurposed and moved to the fire wall
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This is the heat control valve with the 90 degree elbow from the hose that comes from the water pump to the lower outlet on the radiator. (it worked out perfect for the hose configuration that im running now.
Thats what ive got for now!
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Old 07-07-2018, 09:38 AM
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So I know that I'm bringing this thread back from the dead, but I felt I couldn't leave Y'all hanging like that. From the point where I left off the truck has sat for the last 5 years in a shed. Life, school, and work had gotten in the way and pushed the 4runner to the back burner. Now that I have finally graduated from college, found the dream job and still have a spot to work on this puppy its back in action and better than before!!!! After graduating college with a Mechanical Engineering degreee, I went back to the fabrication shop that I worked at right after high school. I have since grown my fabrication skills and are really starting to show in the difference in quality of work since I've started this build. enough with the talk and Ill let some pictures do the talking!

I left you guys with the coolant plumbing and shortly after finding the extend of the damage to the engine, it snowballed into a full on build. I yanked the auto slushbox and scored a complete R151 for 600 bucks!! so heres the clutch pedal assembly that I cleaned up and serviced before mounting


Header with turbo, waste gate, atmospheric dump tube, and down pipe


While I was in college I helped a friend build his 85 long bed on 40's that sits lower than my 86' truck on 33's!


I sourced a second block and due to the nature of the snowball effect did things like this... deburred the entire inside of the block for better oil drainage and all of the oil galleys to boot!!


Heres the R151 preassembled to mock up all of the engine components


first order of business was starting the intercooler and associated plumbing. I wanted a location for the intercooler that would get maximum air flow and not stick out like a sore thumb. only problem is with the air conditioning putting it behind the bumper was not an option so instead it was mounted directly below the bumper. started by building a tray that sits flush with the bottom of the frame and ties into the face of the front crossmember. the tray is made from 12ga sheet metal and is dimple died for strength drainage and a lil bit of cool factor!


I wanted to go with the sleeper look and keep most of the components as hidden as possible. so I took two stock valances and started chopping them up to hide the intercooler and plumbing.



Once the initial cut for the intercooler was made it was time to start with the plumbing, started on the turbo side and started working my way to the intake.



with the plumbing roughed in on the turbo side of the intercooler, I wrapped the piping around the other side of the core support and started covering the intercooler up to hide it a lil better, here are the results!!



I added a removable mesh grill to the opening to keep the large debris out of the intercooler but allow maximum air flow.

Heres a shot of the upper mounts that hold the intercooler in place its a simple L bracket that captures the top of the intercooler and the tray below holds it from moving side to side


And heres a shot of the plumbing that wraps around the front of the core support.



In this shot you can see the sneak peak of the air intake!


So the Idea was to keep the truck looking as stock as possible and not let it show that there was a monster lurking under the hood. I have always wanted to move the blinker up to the corner lights and this was the perfect excuse to do so!!


I bored a hole in the inner fender for a 3" u-bend to go from the stock blinker location up to where the original air box sat. I have a serious paranoia of rocks and debris getting into places so i machined a 1/4" thick flange and recessed a section of mesh into it and built a retaining ring to hold it all together on the inner fender.


Ive got tons more pictures of the progress that I have made up til now but Ill leave ya with this till I can get them off my camera!
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Old 07-13-2018, 08:24 PM
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more progress!!!

Once I got the intercooler piping figured out for the most part I started working on the intake. I've been lurking on the 22rte trucks page for a while and a common upgrade that ive seen occur is swapping the throttle body out for a mustang or explorer 5.0L throttle body. They are larger than what the overbored stock throttle bodies can be safely bored to and the cost of one is either cheaper or the same price depending on what brand you buy. I noticed that all of the throttle body swaps were performed on the late model 22re straight intake plenums. I spent all that time and effort engraving the stock plenum I didnt want to get rid of it. I toyed with the idea of building a wedge adapter that would taper from the stock 55mm throttle opening to the new 65mm one after lots of drafting at staring at the paper work it was easier to lop off the end of the intake and start from scratch. Not my ideal starting point but its the only way around it!
Heres the new Accufab 65mm mustang throttle body little did I know that the race version was a 4" dia mouth on the end I thought it just got rid of the vacuum ports. A tad overkill but its in my hands so Im gonna make it work!!!

First cut is always the hardest!!!!

with the end squared up and straight now I figured it was the perfect time to grind out all the stock egr ports in the intake. once I broke into the passage way it was impressive how plugged that it actually was! This intake was hot tanked and bead blasted and it was still completely plugged up!!



with the end of the intake loped off I threw the intake back together to see what I had to work around.

mocked up the throttle body using plywood and mdf til I got the distance from the intake that I liked and clearance all around!

Hard to tell in this image but the idle air control valve barely clears the stock fuel rail!!

luckily im a CNC operator at the shop that I work for so I took my free friday and whipped up a billet adapter that transfers from the stock intake to the mustang throttle body and welded it to the freshly cut intake
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