Swimmerboy2112's 1986 4Runner Build-Up Thread
#1261
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
i'll bet you could put some "off-road rescue" stickers on, and park illegally without any hassle
edit: as for the the links, i just meant the supra afm and how i mounted it, and the bat/intake swap
now i really want a first gen!
edit: as for the the links, i just meant the supra afm and how i mounted it, and the bat/intake swap
now i really want a first gen!
Last edited by irab88; 10-26-2010 at 05:06 AM.
#1262
I'll have to find your links, the Supra AFM and the batt/intake swap are next on my list.
About the first gen, there is a running 88' by me (Jersey) for sale $600 that is if i don't grab it up first!
#1268
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
here ya go. a simple diagram for using an automotive relay and switch
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ianrab/5119304073/
the relay is positioned such that the terminals are facing you. the things that look like (boobs) power outlets would be the lights
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ianrab/5119304073/
the relay is positioned such that the terminals are facing you. the things that look like (boobs) power outlets would be the lights
Last edited by irab88; 10-26-2010 at 08:34 PM.
#1269
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
I'd better read that awesome Paint Shop Diagram, Ian..... I have 8" lights to install and NO FRIGGIN CLUE how to do the relay! lol.... Thanks, ...Oh yeah, I could have just said, "Yeah, what Brian said, ....'I'm so terrible with the whole electrical thing i'm lucky i wired it up right at all. lol' " ....EXACTLY! Mex6.... Wait, I'm terrible at math, too?????? lol. Just kidding, I not am.
#1271
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
yeah, electronics is kinda one of my hobbies.
ok, i'm gonna geek out for a second:
if you have (in brian's case) five 55 watt lights, that's about 5 amps a piece, for a total of 25 amps (5 lights x 5 amps each) or 300 watts. a typical automotive switch can usually only handle 20 to 30 amps. i know, "then why do i need a relay?" because continuous use of all 300 watts puts quite a bit of heat inside that switch, making it prone to failing. so instead of a switch for 25 amps of lights, it would be used for a 20 milliamp relay coil. the contacts of the relay would then be able to handle the 25+ amps for the lights. in this case, i suggest using one relay for the yellows and one for the whites. both relays could use the same switch.
there's a bunch more you could do, but this works for 90% of what us yotatech-ers are doing
ok, i'm gonna geek out for a second:
if you have (in brian's case) five 55 watt lights, that's about 5 amps a piece, for a total of 25 amps (5 lights x 5 amps each) or 300 watts. a typical automotive switch can usually only handle 20 to 30 amps. i know, "then why do i need a relay?" because continuous use of all 300 watts puts quite a bit of heat inside that switch, making it prone to failing. so instead of a switch for 25 amps of lights, it would be used for a 20 milliamp relay coil. the contacts of the relay would then be able to handle the 25+ amps for the lights. in this case, i suggest using one relay for the yellows and one for the whites. both relays could use the same switch.
there's a bunch more you could do, but this works for 90% of what us yotatech-ers are doing
#1273
yeah, electronics is kinda one of my hobbies.
ok, i'm gonna geek out for a second:
if you have (in brian's case) five 55 watt lights, that's about 5 amps a piece, for a total of 25 amps (5 lights x 5 amps each) or 300 watts. a typical automotive switch can usually only handle 20 to 30 amps. i know, "then why do i need a relay?" because continuous use of all 300 watts puts quite a bit of heat inside that switch, making it prone to failing. so instead of a switch for 25 amps of lights, it would be used for a 20 milliamp relay coil. the contacts of the relay would then be able to handle the 25+ amps for the lights. in this case, i suggest using one relay for the yellows and one for the whites. both relays could use the same switch.
there's a bunch more you could do, but this works for 90% of what us yotatech-ers are doing
ok, i'm gonna geek out for a second:
if you have (in brian's case) five 55 watt lights, that's about 5 amps a piece, for a total of 25 amps (5 lights x 5 amps each) or 300 watts. a typical automotive switch can usually only handle 20 to 30 amps. i know, "then why do i need a relay?" because continuous use of all 300 watts puts quite a bit of heat inside that switch, making it prone to failing. so instead of a switch for 25 amps of lights, it would be used for a 20 milliamp relay coil. the contacts of the relay would then be able to handle the 25+ amps for the lights. in this case, i suggest using one relay for the yellows and one for the whites. both relays could use the same switch.
there's a bunch more you could do, but this works for 90% of what us yotatech-ers are doing
#1274
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
...Ok, so i ran the wires to my existing light switch (already powers the brush guard lights) and hooked them up, and the top lights were very dim like they weren't getting enough power. I'm assuming a second switch and relay would remedy that problem?
and let me know if you need any more diagrams drawn up
Last edited by irab88; 10-27-2010 at 05:04 AM.
#1275
just a standard "automotive relay". you can get them cheap (less than $2) on amazon.com. that's where i got a bunch of my relay stuff. also, a relay socket makes connections a whole lot easier
yup. or it should. make sure you use at least 16 awg wire, if not larger (12-14)
and let me know if you need any more diagrams drawn up
yup. or it should. make sure you use at least 16 awg wire, if not larger (12-14)
and let me know if you need any more diagrams drawn up