Swimmerboy2112's 1986 4Runner Build-Up Thread
#3242
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,835
Likes: 3
From: Walnutport, PA
I accidentally ordered the Celsius version, then realized my mistake and had my order corrected to the Fahrenheit version, so I guess it is really gonna be up in the air as to wether I get the Celsius or Fahrenheit. lol
#3247
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,835
Likes: 3
From: Walnutport, PA
Just got off the phone with LCEngineering, they said the headers from a first gen pickup will fit on my 4Runner... YAY!
all i need to do is run a gasket from an 86' (duh) which I already have.
all i need to do is run a gasket from an 86' (duh) which I already have.
#3248
#3250
The ARB mounts under the frame rail like mine, what I would do if I was doing an SAS, the front spring hangers are on the front tip of the frame and the ARB has steel plates going towards the frame and instead of the mounting under which with an SAS you can't do and I would welds on some more plates to be able to mount on the side of the frame Instead of underneath, Just like the other mounting points on both sides on the front 2 body mounts.
I just looked at my bumper and body mounts pics on puter, There really is no reason to be able to reattach the ARB to the 2 bolts where the factory tow hooks go? Or just cut off that area and you will still have the outer ones and the 2 on the front cross member, that is plenty? just get grade 8.8 metric, if you still want more mounting then make a plate and weld it and that will be U shaped to go under the body mount and bolt it to the side of the frame instead of beneath...
Cut this area out...

Drivers side, Weld on a plate here and drill some pass through bolts holes through the frame and bolt that there...

On passenger side, Same thing weld a plate, drill some pass through bolt holes through the frame and bolt that there...

Your going to do some welding or have welding done for front spring hanger and the through bolt hanger through the frame, so you can do or have the bumper modified. Or just cut out the white area on the first pic, and just use the remaining attachment bolts only, Just some idea's I'm throwing at you...
I just looked at my bumper and body mounts pics on puter, There really is no reason to be able to reattach the ARB to the 2 bolts where the factory tow hooks go? Or just cut off that area and you will still have the outer ones and the 2 on the front cross member, that is plenty? just get grade 8.8 metric, if you still want more mounting then make a plate and weld it and that will be U shaped to go under the body mount and bolt it to the side of the frame instead of beneath...
Cut this area out...

Drivers side, Weld on a plate here and drill some pass through bolts holes through the frame and bolt that there...

On passenger side, Same thing weld a plate, drill some pass through bolt holes through the frame and bolt that there...

Your going to do some welding or have welding done for front spring hanger and the through bolt hanger through the frame, so you can do or have the bumper modified. Or just cut out the white area on the first pic, and just use the remaining attachment bolts only, Just some idea's I'm throwing at you...
#3251
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,835
Likes: 3
From: Walnutport, PA
The ARB mounts under the frame rail like mine, what I would do if I was doing an SAS, the front spring hangers are on the front tip of the frame and the ARB has steel plates going towards the frame and instead of the mounting under which with an SAS you can't do and I would welds on some more plates to be able to mount on the side of the frame Instead of underneath, Just like the other mounting points on both sides on the front 2 body mounts.
I just looked at my bumper and body mounts pics on puter, There really is no reason to be able to reattach the ARB to the 2 bolts where the factory tow hooks go? Or just cut off that area and you will still have the outer ones and the 2 on the front cross member, that is plenty? just get grade 8.8 metric, if you still want more mounting then make a plate and weld it and that will be U shaped to go under the body mount and bolt it to the side of the frame instead of beneath...
Cut this area out...

Drivers side, Weld on a plate here and drill some pass through bolts holes through the frame and bolt that there...

On passenger side, Same thing weld a plate, drill some pass through bolt holes through the frame and bolt that there...

Your going to do some welding or have welding done for front spring hanger and the through bolt hanger through the frame, so you can do or have the bumper modified. Or just cut out the white area on the first pic, and just use the remaining attachment bolts only, Just some idea's I'm throwing at you...
I just looked at my bumper and body mounts pics on puter, There really is no reason to be able to reattach the ARB to the 2 bolts where the factory tow hooks go? Or just cut off that area and you will still have the outer ones and the 2 on the front cross member, that is plenty? just get grade 8.8 metric, if you still want more mounting then make a plate and weld it and that will be U shaped to go under the body mount and bolt it to the side of the frame instead of beneath...
Cut this area out...

Drivers side, Weld on a plate here and drill some pass through bolts holes through the frame and bolt that there...

On passenger side, Same thing weld a plate, drill some pass through bolt holes through the frame and bolt that there...

Your going to do some welding or have welding done for front spring hanger and the through bolt hanger through the frame, so you can do or have the bumper modified. Or just cut out the white area on the first pic, and just use the remaining attachment bolts only, Just some idea's I'm throwing at you...
#3256
POR-15 is expensive, was $32 bucks with tax for a pint at Lafayette's only Body only parts store, I was stunned!!!! He says here is another brand of the same formula for around $15 a 1/2 pint and if you add is up your only saving 2 bucks, so I just got the por-15. Next time I'm getting the 6-pack Por-15 in the smaller cans so not waste as much as I did...
#3258
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,835
Likes: 3
From: Walnutport, PA
POR-15 is expensive, was $32 bucks with tax for a pint at Lafayette's only Body only parts store, I was stunned!!!! He says here is another brand of the same formula for around $15 a 1/2 pint and if you add is up your only saving 2 bucks, so I just got the por-15. Next time I'm getting the 6-pack Por-15 in the smaller cans so not waste as much as I did...




