SheepdogGadget's '88 Pickup slow build thread
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SheepdogGadget's '88 Pickup slow build thread
Bought this from a USMC Mechanic who had it in California and drove it to Florida before getting orders to Okinawa. He did all of the modifications thus far aside from the license plate holder/tag light. Planning to relax the front torsion bars some and install ball joint spacers. Still trying to decide what other mods I want to do.
Last edited by SheepdogGadget; 03-03-2014 at 10:37 PM.
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That is a Golight Radioray remote control spotlight. There is a control panel on the dash behind the wiper stalk that has a joystick and power switch for the light itself. The light can rotate 370deg and has 135deg of tilt up/down. It is currently halogen but when I get around to re-doing the additional lighting I am going to swap the halogen head for the newer 36w led spot head.
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That is a Golight Radioray remote control spotlight. There is a control panel on the dash behind the wiper stalk that has a joystick and power switch for the light itself. The light can rotate 370deg and has 135deg of tilt up/down. It is currently halogen but when I get around to re-doing the additional lighting I am going to swap the halogen head for the newer 36w led spot head.
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It is just a rather handy utility light, almost like a cop spotlight except remote controlled. I have used it while working on my license plate mount by pointing it at the back right corner of the bed so that it would help illuminate where I was working on routing the wiring for the license plate light. As for actual practicality, I have yet to really wheel it much less wheel it at night, so I will have to see how practical/useful it is when I get out to the trails.
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I hear you. I've seen a few of them on here (BeMiceElf (I think) has one), but lacking the accessory pole/extension, instead mounted on the cab itself. There's also a lot in the local college town, as kids with late 90s Chevrolet 1500s tend to think their 32inch Duelers need a spot light to get through dirt roads.
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Build update: Added 60w LED spot lights to the bumper to replace the KCs and cheapo walmart fog lights.
Then I met a guardrail head on in the rain while getting onto the interstate yesterday.
Frame and bumper mounts look ok, I think I should be able to correct the slight up angle the bumper has by removing and re-attaching it with new bolts.
The fairlead should be fairly easy to re-attach. I put the fairlead in the shackle to keep it from swinging. Quick temporary fix because I had to get to work.
I eventually plan to get a bumper from Badlands to replace whatever this is... PO said that it was from another vehicle and he made it fit...
Then I met a guardrail head on in the rain while getting onto the interstate yesterday.
Frame and bumper mounts look ok, I think I should be able to correct the slight up angle the bumper has by removing and re-attaching it with new bolts.
The fairlead should be fairly easy to re-attach. I put the fairlead in the shackle to keep it from swinging. Quick temporary fix because I had to get to work.
I eventually plan to get a bumper from Badlands to replace whatever this is... PO said that it was from another vehicle and he made it fit...
Last edited by SheepdogGadget; 04-19-2014 at 01:32 PM.
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Wow! I suck at keeping this updated...
First:
Front crossmember was a little bulged around the bumper nuts, 3 good taps each with a 4lb blacksmith's hammer fixed that.
Since then I have bought a different airbox as mine had the intake hole on the front behind the left headlight. This made installing a sealed tube from snorkel to intake problematic. My ebay sourced used replacement has the hole on the right side of the airbox. I used abs pipe and fittings to create a watertight connection from the airbox to where the snorkel enters the fender. (pics of that when I remember to take them) I also used a nylon license plate screw and nut with some black rtv to seal the hole in the bottom of the airbox.
I also sealed my distributor cap to the distributor with black RTV and replaced the distributor cap's plastic vent cover with a hose that runs up and back to the firewall, and then about 10" straight down. I am now satisfied that my engine bay is about as prepared for fording as possible for a gasoline engine save for the replacement of the clutched fan with an electric one.
Also removed the swaybar, and now I can sorta flex..... Need ball joint spacers as the PO gained his stated 3" of lift by cranking the torsion bars, hence I have very poor up-travel...
First:
Front crossmember was a little bulged around the bumper nuts, 3 good taps each with a 4lb blacksmith's hammer fixed that.
Since then I have bought a different airbox as mine had the intake hole on the front behind the left headlight. This made installing a sealed tube from snorkel to intake problematic. My ebay sourced used replacement has the hole on the right side of the airbox. I used abs pipe and fittings to create a watertight connection from the airbox to where the snorkel enters the fender. (pics of that when I remember to take them) I also used a nylon license plate screw and nut with some black rtv to seal the hole in the bottom of the airbox.
I also sealed my distributor cap to the distributor with black RTV and replaced the distributor cap's plastic vent cover with a hose that runs up and back to the firewall, and then about 10" straight down. I am now satisfied that my engine bay is about as prepared for fording as possible for a gasoline engine save for the replacement of the clutched fan with an electric one.
Also removed the swaybar, and now I can sorta flex..... Need ball joint spacers as the PO gained his stated 3" of lift by cranking the torsion bars, hence I have very poor up-travel...
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Two steps forward, one giant step back..... Found my passenger side upper front shock mount was snapped off today...
I do not know when it happened, but now I am weighing my options:
1: weld it back together
2: Ford shock towers (will need to gusset and brace these as I have heard that they need reinforcement)
3: Shock hoop of some kind???
If anyone has any ideas, please don't hesitate to share.
I do not have a welder and would have to track down one of a few members of some local 4x4 clubs I have started hanging out with to assist me...
I do not know when it happened, but now I am weighing my options:
1: weld it back together
2: Ford shock towers (will need to gusset and brace these as I have heard that they need reinforcement)
3: Shock hoop of some kind???
If anyone has any ideas, please don't hesitate to share.
I do not have a welder and would have to track down one of a few members of some local 4x4 clubs I have started hanging out with to assist me...
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Roof swapped, now I have to get the front crossmember rebuilt from where 2 of the bumper mounting nuts pulled out. I also have to re-install my snorkel. At least it is back to being roadworthy. I still need to repaint it...
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Well, as I have gained experience with my truck, my build has changed plans a bit. I am now saving for 4.88s and ARB lockers, as well as a Blazeland Long Arm kit. Will be going up to 33x10.5R15 BFG KM2s. Considering Swapping to a T100 rear axle to better match the added front width from the Blazeland kit.
Current changes:
Front Crossmember has been abused so much between my earlier guardrail collision and being dragged down the hill by the bumper while on its roof. Building new upper bumper mounts from 1/4" steel and reinforcing the entire crossmember with 3"x3" 1/4" L angle. L angle is installed just needs a little more welding and grinding to look good. That and the new upper mounts will be done Saturday.
I am aware that it looks like the weld on the bumper is cracking in the last photo, but after I looked at it it is just the paint flaking off from when I bent those mounting ears using a hi lift on that bumper (missing bottom 2 bumper mount nuts so I had the top 2 and those 2 little ones on the ears)
Replaced my old no name 9500lb winch with a Badlands (Harbor Freight) 12000lb winch because the 9500lb's wire rope was fraying. Now I am planning a rear bumper with a 2" receiver, badly needed rear recovery points, and an under-bed winch tray to mount the 9500 as a rear winch once I get a new wire rope for it.
Current changes:
Front Crossmember has been abused so much between my earlier guardrail collision and being dragged down the hill by the bumper while on its roof. Building new upper bumper mounts from 1/4" steel and reinforcing the entire crossmember with 3"x3" 1/4" L angle. L angle is installed just needs a little more welding and grinding to look good. That and the new upper mounts will be done Saturday.
I am aware that it looks like the weld on the bumper is cracking in the last photo, but after I looked at it it is just the paint flaking off from when I bent those mounting ears using a hi lift on that bumper (missing bottom 2 bumper mount nuts so I had the top 2 and those 2 little ones on the ears)
Replaced my old no name 9500lb winch with a Badlands (Harbor Freight) 12000lb winch because the 9500lb's wire rope was fraying. Now I am planning a rear bumper with a 2" receiver, badly needed rear recovery points, and an under-bed winch tray to mount the 9500 as a rear winch once I get a new wire rope for it.
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I had a body shop handle that, mostly due to my inexperience welding, and the fact that the fit needed to be exact to get a new windshield in it. I cut the roof off of an '88 2wd in the local salvage yard. Didn't have a cordless sawzall so I used hacksaws... That was a fun 4hrs in Florida summer weather.
Last edited by SheepdogGadget; 09-10-2014 at 12:50 PM.
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I got tired of being the calico truck...
Tried to clean the paint off of the license plate... instead took the expiration date off the decal
Painted the truck using a Wagner Electric HVLP gun with Rustoleum Professional (mixed the color myself, 1gal almond 1 3/4qt leather brown 7/8qt safety yellow). Was a bit rushed though, huge amount of overspray, runs, and orange peel, going to have to wetsand and spray a 2nd coat in 2 weeks or so.
At least it's all one color now.
Tried to clean the paint off of the license plate... instead took the expiration date off the decal
Painted the truck using a Wagner Electric HVLP gun with Rustoleum Professional (mixed the color myself, 1gal almond 1 3/4qt leather brown 7/8qt safety yellow). Was a bit rushed though, huge amount of overspray, runs, and orange peel, going to have to wetsand and spray a 2nd coat in 2 weeks or so.
At least it's all one color now.
Last edited by SheepdogGadget; 09-14-2014 at 02:56 PM.
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Thanks!
It will get a cage eventually, high in the back similar to the Czech Special Forces D4D Hilux SCV but more reinforced, the Hilux SCV's cage appears to be an attempt to maintain the possibility of survival after a rollover due to the additional armor of the SCV package, not provide an exo cage that allows the vehicle to take very little damage in a flop or roll and be drivable after being pulled back onto its wheels. The tire carrier is gone, Pickup bed and tailgate are not up to the task of holding the stock spare, much less a 31 like I have now or the 33x10.5R15 I plan to put on the truck.
It will get a cage eventually, high in the back similar to the Czech Special Forces D4D Hilux SCV but more reinforced, the Hilux SCV's cage appears to be an attempt to maintain the possibility of survival after a rollover due to the additional armor of the SCV package, not provide an exo cage that allows the vehicle to take very little damage in a flop or roll and be drivable after being pulled back onto its wheels. The tire carrier is gone, Pickup bed and tailgate are not up to the task of holding the stock spare, much less a 31 like I have now or the 33x10.5R15 I plan to put on the truck.