Nice progress Jared. You made quick work of pulling that sucker. Would have taken me several days.

 

Nah a solid 4 to 6 hours and you would have it. Just remember to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt while the motor is still in and take out the radiator so the clutch can clear the bell housing and your fine

 

question how did you get the wife in that chair firmly planted to the ground all day.
I keep mine out of the garage. Helps me get things done w/o her being around....lol

 

Thanks!

Haha yeah I know man, she had a steady source of beer so all was well.

Update time...
Well I tore down the block to get ready for the machine shop...
Before

and a short time after...


I was supper excited to find pieces of my timing chain guide scattered all through the block... oh Toyota
I guess no ones perfect... actually come on plastic against moving metal?!?! Whatever well here is the damages...


Did you notice my sweet bolts in labeled plastic bags idea? Looks pretty simple but that still took me 10 years to figure out. If your new I would suggest that, and pics of everything. For every one pic I post I have 5 more so I can put this thing back together again. I'm searching around for a good machine shop tomorrow. I had one in Spokane but haven't lived here in Boise for long enough to really need one.

Side note just tracked my parts from 22re performance and they should show up tomorrow so I'm in a really good mood.

 

Just got done going through your thread. That is a great looking truck and seems like you are fixing the POs repairs. I am starting to think that is standard anymore the way some people do halfway jobs on these trucks.

Just seen your previous pics on the nuts and bolts. On parts that dont have to go to the machine shop, I put the bolts back into there holes where possible. For example on the Plenum, I put those bolts that hold the throttle cable in or on the Intake, I put them back in their holes. It what works for you.

Watch your timing cover bolts, they are specfic as to where they go. Your build is looking great.

 

Thanks man! Yeah I leave the bolts on that don't need to come off also as its a great idea. I did note the difference in the bolts on the timing cover but I am going to double check them with a reference because one or two where missing and I don't trust the previous owners rebuild skills. Also I am upgrading to a double chain sprocket, does that come with longer bolts? I think the housing is a little bigger right? Anyhow I have a Chiltons but if anyone knows of a better reference (possibly with bolt sizes) it would come in handy as I try to do a proper rebuild. You should see how much silicone was caked between the timing cover and block...

Also...

Ill try to post pics of them soon!

 

Agreed on both points

 

Jared, 4Crawler has all the timing cover bolts and their lengths listed http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml

You made pretty quick work of tearing down that engine too, I'm guessing you don't have kids!

 

Im not sure if the double row timing chain is an upgrade or not. I tore down a 22r and it had one on it. It may be year specific, I cant say. I would rather have a double row,but I feel the plastic guides would still break as miles and time go on them and they get brittle and would eat up your timing cover.

They do have metal guides, even though I have never seen one. So between double row and metal guides you might could go further on timing chains, but it feels to me that I would just be delaying maintenace on it so I just stay with the standard set up.

Usually by the time I get to where I need to change timing chains, it is a good time to go solve some oil leaks and just check out the motor all at once. They recommed at 100k miles, but you can go above it. Depends on how well the motor is taken care of and how it is driven. I am constantly keeping an eye and ears on my engines.

 

This would be a good time to port the TB as well as the intake manfold to take advantage of that head.

 

Hey thanks man... and no I don't have kids just dogs

Thanks for the heads up man. The dual kit I'm looking at does have the metal backed timing guides, in fact here is the link if your interested...
http://www.lceperformance.com/22R-RE...-p/1015012.htm
The kit is kinda expensive because it comes with a new housing, oil pump and water pump (I'm guessing because of the extra thickness of the dual chain) but once the conversion is done the replacement (at least through LC) cost the exact same as the single chain. The reason why I decided to go with it is because it is a little more insurance since my block and head are racking up almost 2 grand and I have no plans on ever getting rid of this truck.

Yeah this was something that didn't make the list, however, I keep looking at it. I'm not too worried about the TB because that is not a huge project to do after the fact but the way the wiring harness runs through the intake runners has me concerned that this would be a big project later on. I'm thinking about modifying my wiring harness to run over instead of through my runners, any threads on this in the yota universe? Anyhow I am still thinking but its hard to draw the "that's enough" line... especially with a wife!

Anyhow here is the long over due update!
I just dropped off the block at my machinist today and I am looking at about 2 weeks. Before then I have to get my clutch and timing kit coming so I'm ready for the build. As promised here is pics of the work 22re sent me. It looks great to me and would highly suggest them... but I will wait until it runs .
Here are the head bolts, dual chain adjustable sprocket, and rocker assembly (still in wrapper till install)

And here is the head...

 

One option
http://doaracingengines.com/page5/page5.html

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/p...d-54946-print/

http://media-north.com/4wd/tbintake.htm

http://www.lceperformance.com/EFI-In...-p/1060001.htm

http://www.wildyoats.com/vbulletin/s...ad.php?t=14412

 

That head is mighty pretty! Hope I'll get one like that soon haha

 

Update time...
Well I know I haven't posted in a while but while the block is at the machine shop I have been cleaning... and no one cares about that. About the only thing I have done is taken apart the idler assembly and replaced the crappy bearing with an SKF 6204 2RS. Can you tell I'm a bearing salesman by trade? While the SKF is probably overkill and a Koyo would work just fine, I figured what the hell. My clutch and timing components come in Monday and my block was done Thursday but I'm picking it up Monday as well. Got some interesting news... So they previous owner of this fine truck decided that when he changed the head gasket (good move) he would also BELT SAND the top of the block (bad move). People please DO NOT BELT SAND YOUR BLOCK!!!! Not only does it throw metal shavings into every part of your motor, it is impossible to get the surface perfectly flat. If you think its an issue put in another hour of work to pull the motor and take it to a machine shop to see if you need it decked. Because of that moron, Steve (my machinist) had to take .017 off the top! He is hooking me up with a head gasket that will take up .020 to make up the difference. No wonder the head gasket wasn't sealing.

Also a little pointer if you want to do a rebuild... How you find a machine shop is very important. If you google it you might come up with 20 people in your area but are they really a short/long block machine shop? A lot of places "claiming" to be a machine shop will take your block to another business to have the actual machining done. Ask for a tour of the shop and they should have most if not all of these machines...
http://muldersmachine.com/gallery.html - (a quick plug for my boy Steve Mulder! Try him out if your in Boise.)
If they don't have these machines chances are they will take your motor somewhere else and you will pay more. Also a true machine shop will be willing to do more custom work than a stock rebuild. Anyhow there is my rant, I should be rockin and rollin if I stay motivated Monday!

 

Got some more parts today...

Also got the block back... looks pretty sweet...

Painted it up to finish the day...

 

Where did you go get your block done at? Looking for a good place to get mine done at when it needs to.

 

Mulders machine shop. Steve is a great guy, I can give you prices and exactly what he di if you want.

 

I take it he does good work then, eh? Yeah that'd be great. Was just wondering how much and what you all had done.

 

A2theK -
Here is what I had done...
cylinders bored .020 over
pin fit and assembled
crank degrease, magna, grind and polished
Resurface block (.017 thanks belt sanding PO jackass)
degrease block
short block assemble
balanced block

Here are the parts I needed...
pistons & rings
pin bushings
rod bearings
main bearings
trust bearings
complete gasket set
.020 head gasket shim (25 bucks extra, average rebuild will not need)
break in oil

Total 1.5 week build time $1029.
You could knock 130 bucks off it if you didn't want your block balanced and even more if you wanted to assemble the short block. I like having the machine shop assemble the short block because then there is a little more liability there.

Update...
Well things are going good. A lot of time spent cleaning in the last couple of weeks but I finally got some more work done and the long block is pretty much assembled. Here are the pics...

This is the PITA shim you need when your machinist needs to take off so much from the top that the pistons are above the deck at TDC...

 

Wow, that is a thing of beauty! Good work man.