Mojave_Moze

What kind of paint are you using? I blacked mine out and used Krylon, but it fades quick and I have to keep re-applying it. My buddy said to try Rust-Oleum so I'm gonna give that a try next

rattlewagon

Its just cheap paint I had at the house. well see how it holds up. Going to try and get to the corners soon, forecast here is rain for the next 5 days.

rattlewagon

Havent updated this thread in a while. Its still leaking oil from everywhere, so valve cover gasket is next on the list.

Rackin up the miles!



My front diff had a little leak, but I think I have that solved.

Yota Tech IFS Diff Issues

And now Im rockin some 31x 10.5 Sportkings for the time being. So far they fit the truck and what I need them to do well. Im also diggin the black rims.



Twins! (I still have the Outlaw 2s on here. )


And with my trail rig:


Ill try to get some better pictures in the up coming weekends.

rattlewagon

Replaced all four ball joints to cure my unaligned front and get ready for VT state inspection. What a pita.



They were bad. Completely my fault, never greased them. Truck rides like its brand new....almost. Haha.

B-yodaful

Love the white runners subd

rattlewagon

Thanks B-Yota!

Just went and picked it up from the shop. Passed VT inspection with flying colors. They were all shocked by how rust free this truck is. You west-coasters dont know how luck you are.

A shot from this morning


And from picking it up this afternoon.


I just picked up a set of 31" snows that will go on the outlawII rims and Ill save these all terrains for the summer. They arnt bad tires, theyre just not snowtires.

Teuf

As a former NH'ite, I DO NOT feel your pain.

rattlewagon

Having some new problems with the truck. Will start and idle fine, but when I drive it and push the clutch in, it dies. Not always, but enough to be a concern and seems to be getting worse,I feel like it does it more when the truck is cold.

It started last week after changing the airfilter (I think) . Id put the old one back in to see if it stops, but I threw it out. Its been raining here and is dark when I get home, so when I have time Im going to check the AFM and TPS. The EGR has been removed.

I can hopefully get it into a friends garage this weekend to test stuff.

farmerj

sure you don't have an air leak on the intake side the air meter isn't seeing.

rattlewagon

^ Ya know, I found that last week. The boot by the TB cracked pretty bad. I have it "hacked" fixed (ductape and RTV) , and hopefully getting a new boot this weekend. But its still doing it.

rattlewagon

Little update. Was able to bum some shop time at a friends house, but neither of us seemed to have working volt meters. Figures. So the MAF and TPS go untested, but should be able to do that this weekend.

The idle seems to have 3 distinct patterns. It will start and idle every time but when I rev it (either sitting or in traffic, like pulling up to a stop sign), it will 1) Idle normal 700-1100 depending on engine temp. 2) RPMs Will drop right to 0 and it stalls, or 3) seems to catch it self around the 200 RPM range then idle poorly at around 4-500 RPMs.

I still seem to think out side temp might have something to do with is as, it does this more in the mornings than any other time.

I did find cracks in the air intake, and have ghetto fixed them for the mean time, should also be able to get one of those this weekend, as well as some other routine maintenance (oil change, tranny fluid change, valve cover gasket).

farmerj

garbage in - garbage out.....

So long as you have a hard mechanical failure such as an air intake system leak, your sensors are worthless to the engine.

Until those are fixed, I wouldn't even worry about testing the sensors.

Just so you know I am not a crackpot backyard mechanic...(those guys know their ˟˟˟˟ too). I also went to school for automotive diagnostics (before they wrapped it into a 2 year program), worked as a mechanic for 5 years civilian and also as a mechanic in the guard for 14 years. Not saying I know it all. Just have a method for trouble shooting and electronics.

If it's taught me anything, make dang sure all your mechanical's are right before you even start to chase the electronic side of the issue. Even if you do have an amber check engine light and hard code DTC. You can cause more problems than you can solve.

rattlewagon

I can still test them to make sure then are working properly, Out of spec TPS and MAF are known problems areas for these...

farmerj

nothing to say you can't.

Experience in the past has shown me that people either like to back probe these things and either pierce the wiring (really bad Juju, leads to eventual wire failure or wicking of moisture into harness) or else the like to probe the sockets and make them oversized. (also bad juju, likely intermittent problems).

But if you are getting an issue suddenly and you are finding all these cracks and leaks, focus on fixing the leaks and cracks correctly first.

If you want to be able to back probe safely without damaging things. Go to the sewing store closest and get some REALLY LONG pins or needles. I used them to slip into the connectors without doing any damage. Just a trick I started to do one day when I needed to see what was happening with my 4Runner while it was running.

Biggest issue I had was someone did that wonderful "mileage trick" to the MAF. try adjusting that while it's running.....

rattlewagon

Not familiar with the "mileage trick"?

I hear you, Im hopefully picking up a new boot this weekend.

Im a socket prober. Haha. And the points on my volt meter have been ground to a point for easy probing.

Its just a little nerve racking to drive it and when you push in the clutch, it MIGHT idle. Luckily I dont drive through alot of traffic.

farmerj

you take the fancy black cover off your MAF sensor and then make adjustments to it from stock. It makes matters worse not better. I bought mine that way (actually my ex-wife did) and it took a lot of tinkering with to get it back to what I figured was stock.

I started it wouldn't do 50 mph and had no power to pull itself much less a trailer and no mileage to speak of. 10 MPG or less.

When I was done, 22-24 mpg and it would pull a trailer with a lawn tractor on it at 65 mph all day long.

rattlewagon

The new intake boot fixed the idle issue. Also had time to check the TPS and it checked out fine, but was a little off, so now all is right.

Looks like it was just a little air leak.

I also changed the tranny fluid for the first time since owning the truck and was not impressed. Oil was BLACK and there were metal chunks on the drainplug. Im pretty sure its the original tranny, so for 250k, its to be expected. Ill be keeping my eyes out for another well priced parts truck.

farmerj

good to hear

Resto-noob

iTrader: (3)

Caleb, if you need a tranny for that I have a few you can pick from down here. PM me for more info or shoot me an email if you still have my address (bought the white hood off of you this fall)

rattlewagon

Ill remember that if this one fails. Its still shifting fine though..