My Flex with INSIDE the bump stop Zuk mod/12"x125# Black Magic springs........






BUT, NEVER INTENDED for that to be permanent.... Just wound up working pretty good, so I kept spending on OTHER things, lol... I do have a plan for 56" Dakota Packs.... OR, OMEmu packs... just haven't decided which route. Either way will cost me the same, but the Dakota's will give me WAY more flex, most likely!

 

Yeah Ocell i watched all of your videos, looks like fun! And Chef, do you think the leaf pack would be more flex than what you already have with the springs? And do those leafs your looking at bolt on to factory location? BTW that is a clean Red Yota there man!
And Ocell, how have your new gears treated you? Had time to enjoy them yet?

 

I haven't gotten the new gears on the road yet. Last night I only got the axles bolted back in. This evening I'm going to try swapping out all the brake parts and get the system bled. HOPEFULLY I'll be driving it tomorrow.

 

Nice* good luck with that. I just finished up the oil change and new plugs and wires(damn thing is idling funny) but i work graveyard so im done for the day(night) lol! Ill check back in to see how your ride went*

 

Hey Vote.... (VOTE, INDEED, BTW!!!!! hahaha)....

Yes, a longer leaf pack would add more flex.... You CAN get more flex from stock leaf springs if you add longer hangers... BUT, they can only compress and droop so much. The longer the pack, as long as it has a long enough measurement from 'mock' line to cog pin(simply run a string from eye to eye and then measure from middle of spring above cog pin hole to cog pin hole.... Chevy 63's seem to be around 9-11 on average. Ford F150 springs are a bit more complicated because there are like 10 different types made by ford for very similar trucks... BUT, there are threads on that and you CAN find the right ones by the numbers stamped on them, etc. (when you go to PYPart, take a list with ya). A few pages back on my build thread, in my sig, I documented all the specs for the different Dakota Leaf Packs. And remember, Dakota packs are 56", same as TG and I believe Alcan and others.

To answer your question, specifically... Stock leaf packs are 47. 5" end to end... Dakota leaves are 56"... Chevy half tons are 63"... OMEmu are 48" and made to bolt right up... Others, like Chevy/Dakota/F150, aside from OMEmu, are needing modification and even new hangers and shackles. Dakota, F150 and Chevy springs are 2.5" wide. Stock are 2.25", so the stock hanger, hole to hole are a 1/4" narrow for fitting the wider dakota or chevy springs.

Props to Toyotech for sharing this link... I think this might be the route I go if I try out the longer leaf packs(with, btw, more weight capacity)>>>

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index...-swap-kit.html

Sorry Ocell.... should have just taken it to my page, lol.

 

It's all good. You cleared up some information on leaf packs in my mind too!

 

The time has finally arrived... the 4Runner is back on the road!

I struggled a bit with the drum brakes, but after buying a couple new tools I got it figured out. Those springs are not playing around.

I need to bleed the brake system some more, the pedal is pretty soft. I've also got some gear oil dripping from the drive shaft flange on the rear third member... pinion seal? I'll live with it for now and keep an eye on it.

The new gearing feels plenty smooth. The truck has a bit more get-up now, but that's a quick first impression. I'm curious to get it on the highway.

My first stop: breakfast tacos at Torchy's, naturally.

 

Hey Chef thanx for the info and my apologies to ocell (didn't realize my answer i was looking for was so extensive, just thought i would ask a quick question) Glad to hear all is going good with the new gears, hope to see some video up soon* Btw... Tacos..... yum! lol!

 

No apology necessary.

After a drive to lunch and back, I've certainly got a rear pinion seal leak. This guide makes it look pretty easy to replace: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...eal/index.html

 

Yeah bro, had to do that to mine too* it was fairly simple with the right tools... I would suggest a seal puller(made quick work of getting it out) and i was by myself when i did it as i usually am and when u cant get to one of the bolts take it out of gear, rotate drive shaft, put back in gear and proceed* (may seem like common sense but it took me a minute to think of so i figured i would share lol! while i was under there I also hooked up an extended breather*

 

BTW i went the easy route since ive been pulling some OT at work and bought some skyjacker leaf packs* heard good and bad about em so i will let u know if they are worth the $400 (i got OT not won the lottery, some of this stuff gets pricey,lol)

 

Right on, Vote

Hey Ocell.. great news! Sorry bout the leak though. EASY fix! The rear T-case seal wasn't too bad either. (front not so much, lol... ANDDDDD, .....I meant to mention that while you had the front diff out.... sorry haha... Although, it's not necessary, just do it when/if it finally fails).

And YES, get a seal puller kit... Go to HFreight... they work just fine and are cheap. YOU COULD use a regular hook-seal puller... But the type that you insert on both sides and then push down on are MUCH more effective/less likely to do damage/easier to get into tight places.

 

Thanks Chef.

So I decided to be sensible and just get one tire that matches what I already have, instead of buying a full set of 5. I also figured I'd stick with my current size because the spare has no extra clearance around it right now, so I'm guessing a 33" won't fit under there.

I just called Treadwright and placed the order, around $135 after shipping. They're saying 3 to 4 weeks... Ouch.

 

I did some highway driving this weekend. The 4.88 gearing has made a HUGE difference. I can be in 5th gear doing 70mph and accelerate without downshifting. With stock gears my top speed was 74mph downhill with a tail wind. Now I think I could hit 80 on a flat grade with no problem.

I was hoping to get it off road this weekend, but no luck. Some guys are planning a trip to Hidden Falls next weekend, so I'm really looking forward to that.

I wish there were some casual trails less than an hour away from Austin.

 

I just completed a very similar upgrade including 4.88 gears. I put on 285 75 r16 wheels, and one inch of body lift. They fit with no rubbing, unlike the 31 12.5 r15 wheels that they replaced. The spare did fit into the spare tire location, but I will now need to relocate my tail pipe.
Metric to Standard Result:
285/75/16 = 32.8x11.2/16
I'll post a picture tomorrow. I am anxious to test her off road myself.

 

4.88's huh? Would be nice to have more get up and go* lol! 5th gear really doesn't do anything for me. Do you have the 4banger? Or is it a 6? You might have already posted that earlier in the thread but I can't remember... Yeah I just got new tires on mine (31x10.50x15) and I'm lovin em'!!!

 

Different size wheels...
Stock 235/75r15 3" body lift
[IMG][/IMG]

31/12.5r15 1" body lift and an added leaf, they rub a little in front
[IMG]
[/IMG]

285/75r16 1" body lift and an added leaf, with 6inch shackles, need to alter tail pipe to get spare mounted, 285/75/16 = 32.8x11.2/16
[IMG][/IMG

 

32x11.50x15 BFG Mudkings on 15x8" Outlaw 2's with backspacing that pushes them out a bit.... No body lift, 2.5"(maybe 2", I need EXACT stock measurements to know... but was sagging so long, ya know? lol) with Zuk 12"x125# coils... And up front, 1.5" BJ spacers and relaxed TBAR's a lil bit..... And I do rub with the 32's ONLY "IN FULL TURN"(seems like most often to the right) ANDDDDD, when heading down on a hill or something, into a turn(like a wheeling situation or a nasty driveway entry at full turn). And it's rubbing is on the edges of the fender skirt.... It's like around the 1st bolt up from the mudflap/fender skirt mounting bolt... that area....











***********************************

With the 31's I have, NO RUBBING, EVER, period... With stock rims and 31x10.50x15's...

 

Yeah, I've got the 22RE. I bought the truck with 32" tires, so the stock gearing wasn't working out too well on the highway. It also made my crawling pretty quick. With the 4.88's I've got power up hills. I also tried 4lo for a bit and the crawl was nice and slow.

I'm actually running a shorter gear than stock now, my speedometer tells me I'm going faster than I actually am. For 4.88 gears to be closer to stock, you really want 33" tires. I'm not ruling that out of my future, so I went for 4.88.

Here's some great info on what gearing you should choose for your tire size: http://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota...zes-gears.html

 

Those are looking great! So much better than stock, right?

That's good information about rerouting the exhaust. I've got an after-market trailer hitch bar on mine that's the clearance issue for anything larger than 32" (or, 31.6" - 265/75/16). Now I know what's in store if I want to step up. I appreciate it.