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Connecting negative side of headlight high beam directly to ground as Chachee and 92 mention above is Excellent and FREE diagnostic step.
Find the Red-Yellow wire from H4 connector, switch light to high-beam and connect R-Y wire directly to chassis ground. Then also try directly to battery negative. See if either makes a difference.
Pls ignore tail light test points. Just find headlight wires...
One more thing to check, are BOTH your headlight fuses good? Are u getting 12V across the headlights, both in low-beam and high? The way the circuit is wired, a bad fuse may still allow lights to come on because of leakage thru filament/circuit of the bulb that has a good fuse. How headlights may SEEM to work when one fuse is blown...
So I traced my ground wire off the battery. It has two wires. One not connected to anything the other secure under the the A.C. compressor. Pics to show a better idea. Just got the Voltmeter gonna test the alternator.
Two ground wires off the negative terminal
Well changed out the negative battery cable and still no luck with the high beams. Still getting the power draw from the blinker and windows. Ran the vehicle tested the battery and it shows 14.5Vs and then with the vehicle off it was 12.4. Checked both headlight fuses they are still good and enact.
You need to load test your battery. Just because you have voltage doesn't mean it can supply the necessary amps. Did you record those voltage readings while your condition was occurring, or just when it was idling with no extra load on it?
I got that reading when the car was idling. So I need to roll the windows up, have the lights on, and such to check my voltage?
I appreciate all the help. I'm definitely a newb to the electrical world.
Did you connect Red-Yellow Wire from bulb connector directly to ground like we suggested above? This will test the dimmer-combo switch.
There should be 2 thick wires connected to the battery negative.
One is connected to inner fender near the battery, the other a thicker wire connected to the block (under compressor?). Are those ground wires securely screwed? Is there bare, shiny metal contacting bare shiny metal at those connections?
I'm not sure really how to connect that YandR wire to a ground. I tried to remove that wire from the H4 connector, but didn't want to break it.
I replaced the negative battery cable. The new one has a butt connector thats just floating. The other portion of the cable runs to the block. I cleaned it off and it's securely fastened to the block.
Yea, I forgot to mention that loose wire a second ago. That was more important than what I actually posted. You absolutely have to reattach it to the inner fender. That's your body ground. I can't believe you aren't having worse electrical issues than you have now, with that thing unhooked. That actually may fix your issue.
So since I installed the new cable I can just run a new wire from the butt connector to a place in the fender well? Should I attach it to a bolt that's already in place?
Attach it to a bolt that's already in there. Look around for where that cable would have comfortably reached and see if you see a missing bolt. Go ahead and attach it to the butt connector and some location on the body. You won't have as big of a wire, I don't imagine, as the original but it should be enough for you to know whether or not it helped. I
So since I installed the new cable I can just run a new wire from the butt connector to a place in the fender well? Should I attach it to a bolt that's already in place?
We're making the effort to help you from many miles away. Please return the favor by making it possible for us to SEE what you have in front of you. Pls post pics. When you do, we can actually return the pics to you with notes, arrrows, etc to hep you understand what we're trying to do.
To connect pin of H4 connector to ground:
Plug connector into back of bulb BUT leave a SMALLEST bit of the male spade on the connector exposed. JUST ENOUGH SO YOU CAN SQUEEZE IN A PAPERCLIP TO MAKE CONTACT WITH IT. AGAIN: paper clip should be bare shiny metal. Make sure paper clip contacts the pin for red-yel wire. Connect wire to that paper clip. Connect other end of wire directly to battery negative post. See if flicker goes away.
TO IMPROVE GROUNDING:
Find the inner fender ground where white wires with black stripe connect to. Relocate it to EXACTLY same fender ground where the battery negative post is connected to. It should be a 6mm bolt with 10mm head. Make sure all contacts ar bare, shiny metal contacting bare, shiny metal.
Alright well I went and got the alternator tested at O'Reilly's. According to the guy running the test it passed. I asked if it did a load test and he said he wasn't sure. I got home fired up the 4Runner and turned my headlights on, fan on, and blinker. Tested it with a Voltmeter and got about 13.5-14 volts.
Also got my new H4 relay harness from lowrange. So I went ahead and installed that. I'll attach some pics of the before and the after. After installation of the kit i kicked my headlights on and got high beams! But that's all I'm getting now. So no low beams. I switch on the headlights and the high beams are what come on. I go to flash the high via the switch nothing happens. I can hear the relay kick over, but no change. Then I flip the switch on for high beams and again no change. I can also hear that relay. All the connections are solid and grounds are secured.
I even hooked up another ground on that butt connector on the negative cable to hopefully improve my grounding situation.
I apologize for the lack of pictures, so I'm definitely gonna post a fee now to give an update. Thanks again for everyone's help.
New negative cable installed. Nothing attached to butt connector. Butt connector and the other goods. New H4 kit attached to truck lite H4 connector Kit plugged into oem H4 Power hooked up to the kit. Butt connector attached and ran to the fender. Both plugs Relays shown with power and ground wires. Passenger side All relays and fuses good.
Toyota components are almost always bullet-proof. The problems are caused by poor wiring or poor assembly.
Originally Posted by RAD4Runner
To connect pin of H4 connector to ground:
Plug connector into back of bulb BUT leave a SMALLEST bit of the male spade on the connector exposed. JUST ENOUGH SO YOU CAN SQUEEZE IN A PAPERCLIP TO MAKE CONTACT WITH IT. AGAIN: paper clip should be bare shiny metal. Make sure paper clip contacts the pin for red-yel wire. Connect wire to that paper clip. Connect other end of wire directly to battery negative post. See if flicker goes away.
TO IMPROVE GROUNDING:
Find the inner fender ground where white wires with black stripe connect to. Relocate it to EXACTLY same fender ground where the battery negative post is connected to. It should be a 6mm bolt with 10mm head. Make sure all contacts ar bare, shiny metal contacting bare, shiny metal.
DID YOU DO THIS^^^ ALREADY?
I do not see bare, shiny metal contacting bare, shiny metal at that fender ground connection near upper left corner of fuse block. I also suggest you move that ground connector to EXACTLY same point the fender ground wire from battery is.
Originally Posted by Gen1Runner
...
I even hooked up another ground on that butt connector on the negative cable to hopefully improve my grounding situation. New negative cable
Where did you connect the other end of the wire connected to the butt connector?
Poor choice of Negative Cable. You do not want a butt connector for the ground wire that is the PRIMARY ground wire for MOST of your electronics/electrical. It is called a BUTT for good reason.
I recommend using Marine Battery Terminals.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 05-24-2017 at 04:42 AM.
What about the butt connector is poor? Its a secondary ground. The primary runs to the block.
The red wire that you were talking about that could potentially be a ground short. It's something the P.O. did it's for trailer light I believe. It runs to the rear bumper next to the receiver. I don't see any metal touching metal. I'm not home at the moment I will be back in town Thursday night.
I haven't tried that. I was slightly confused about it and was worried about shorting something. So for clarification the oem H4 plug will be plugged into the truck lite H4 female side. Leaving the red yellow wire end pin slightly exposed. I will then take an actual paperclip and touch it to the H4 pin and negative battery terminal. I don't have enough wire in the oem plug to get it close to the negative terminal. Could I use a jump wire? Next to the fuse box on the left I grounded the butt connector and the ground of the new relay kit. So its on the same side of the fender tjat tje ground of the fuse box.
What about the butt connector is poor? Its a secondary ground. The primary runs to the block.
Do your headlights that is our problem here get grounded to the block? No. They are grounded to the fender.
The red wire that you were talking about that could potentially be a ground short. It's something the P.O. did it's for trailer light I believe. It runs to the rear bumper next to the receiver. I don't see any metal touching metal. I'm not home at the moment I will be back in town Thursday night.
I haven't tried that. I was slightly confused about it and was worried about shorting something. So for clarification the oem H4 plug will be plugged into the truck lite H4 female side. Leaving the red yellow wire end pin slightly exposed. I will then take an actual paperclip and touch it to the H4 pin and negative battery terminal. I don't have enough wire in the oem plug to get it close to the negative terminal. Could I use a jump wire?
Yes, leave a gap like below, as small as possible just to allow paper clip.
IF you make sure you have high beams on and you ONLY touch the pin for Red-yel wire, you're OK. Yes. wire to battery negative to that paper clip will bypass the dimmer switch contacts that we are suspecting. The paper clip and the wire will do the job of grounding the Red-Yellow wire.
Next to the fuse box on the left I grounded the butt connector and the ground of the new relay kit. So its on the same side of the fender tjat tje ground of the fuse box.
If it were my truck, that connection is not good enough.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 05-24-2017 at 07:49 PM.
What about the butt connector is poor? Its a secondary ground. The primary runs to the block.
Do your headlights that is our problem here get grounded to the block? No. They are grounded to the fender. The wire to the block is thick so it can handle the cranking amps for the starter.
The red wire that you were talking about that could potentially be a ground short. It's something the P.O. did it's for trailer light I believe. It runs to the rear bumper next to the receiver. I don't see any metal touching metal. I'm not home at the moment I will be back in town Thursday night.
I haven't tried that. I was slightly confused about it and was worried about shorting something. So for clarification the oem H4 plug will be plugged into the truck lite H4 female side. Leaving the red yellow wire end pin slightly exposed. I will then take an actual paperclip and touch it to the H4 pin and negative battery terminal. I don't have enough wire in the oem plug to get it close to the negative terminal. Could I use a jump wire?
Yes, leave a gap like below, as small as possible just to allow paper clip.
IF you make sure you have high beams on and you ONLY touch the pin for Red-yel wire, you're OK. Yes. wire to battery negative to that paper clip will bypass the dimmer switch contacts that we are suspecting. The paper clip and the wire will do the job of grounding the Red-Yellow wire.
Next to the fuse box on the left I grounded the butt connector and the ground of the new relay kit. So its on the same side of the fender tjat tje ground of the fuse box.
I don't know about you, but if it were my truck that takes me to remote places that would not be good enough. That's why many of us- and many who know what they're doing- upgrade our grounds.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 05-24-2017 at 08:03 PM.
Okay. I'm tracking with the shiny metal exposure for a ground. I'll be making that adjustment by sanding and making sure I see clean shiny fender. I'll remove the fuse box ground and get a better connection with it as well. I'll upgrade the gauge of wire from the butt connector.
I test the ground at the H4 connector too.
Tested it with a Voltmeter and got about 13.5-14 volts.
Also got my new H4 relay harness from lowrange. So I went ahead and installed that. I'll attach some pics of the before and the after. After installation of the kit i kicked my headlights on and got high beams! But that's all I'm getting now. So no low beams. I switch on the headlights and the high beams are what come on. I go to flash the high via the switch nothing happens. I can hear the relay kick over, but no change. Then I flip the switch on for high beams and again no change. I can also hear that relay. All the connections are solid and grounds are secured.
13.5-14 V is good range for alternator.
But wait... I wonder if Low range H4 conversion harness converts the circuit to switched-positive and connects the common H4 pin to ground (formerly connected to positive side on stock). That may be an issue with the Trucklite which I think is polarity sensitive. Got documentation from lowrange?
Yes, to test by connecting Red-yel pin directly to ground do it on stock circuit.
And, yes, at least make ground wire same size as the to butt connector.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 05-26-2017 at 07:49 AM.
"This H4 Relay Harness will plug into your factory wiring harness such as on the Suzuki Samurai and Toyota vehicles and will be able to provide the power needed for your upgraded headlights from IPF, Hella and others. Simply hook up power and ground and then connect your old headlight plugs into this harness. Your old plugs power the relay to put full power to the lights for ultimate power!
Features Fused and Relay protection for headlight harness.
Considering LED Headlights for your Suzuki Samura?
Know that LED lights do not work out of the box on the Samurai. The factory wiring changes ground direction between low and high beam. That works fine for incandescent bulbs which just need current to heat the element. But that does not work for LED lights which are designed for current to flow one way only.
There is a solution! The Low Range Off-Road DIY-H4 headlight harness uses a relay powered by your factory headlight wiring to keep current flowing correctly all the time. Using our harness you can use H4 LED Headlights on the Suzuki.
You really need a multimeter to test these electrical circuits properly. Sounds like you have a polarity issue with the switched ground system and headlight. To fix this you would need to convert to switched power. Not difficult by any means. All you have to do is make the common on the leds ground and have your relay switch the power side rather than the ground. I don't know this circuit by heart like rad seems to. But with a multimeter in hand i could figure it out.
05-18-2017, 09:33 PM
