You gonna regear ? How is the 3slow at turning those big 33's ?

 

Turns them just fine with 4.56 gears. I wouldn't consider regearing unless I went to a 35.

 

I agree. my 3.go turns my 33s just fine with the 4.56. 80mph no problem....

 

We got what NAPA carries, made by Martin Senour, for the base. The clear was Finish 1 Ultimate Overall Clear Coat.

 

Here's the price section from my invoice:
1994 TOYOTA HILUX
0003 ARBCS019R 2 0 2 0.00 160.990
0.00 E
CS019R TOYOTA HILUX(OME18
0004 ARBOMESB43 2 0 2 0.00 26.990 0.00 E
OMESB43 BUSH KIT
0005 ARBOMEU53B 4 0 4 0.00 11.990 0.00 E
OMEU53B U BOLT
0006 ARBOMEN94 2 0 2 0.00 59.990 0.00 E
TACOMA REAR SHOCKS
0007 OUT 30.00 E

 

I don't have any pictures, but I'll update on a couple parts I've replaced. I ordered the heavy duty shift lever ball seat and socket from Marlin Crawler. My shifter had a huge amount of slop before. Install was quick and easy, except I couldn't figure out how to get the cap off (push down and turn) till I referenced the FSM. It greatly improved the feel of my shifter, although I still pop out of gear in 1st (at 208k miles). I'd recommend this part to anyone, well worth the money.

I also got a clutch fork boot from MC. The original one was falling apart from being dripped with oil over the years, pretty sure I'm leaking from the valve covers. Maybe that will get fixed one of these days.

 

Well, I just discovered that I have a 7,000-car junkyard just a short drive away from my college apartment. I guess it used to be a u-pull it, but they have to send their guys out to pull the parts now. Anyway, I got a set of hubs off an 86 truck for 50 bucks. There's a few missing nuts and bolts, and I'll need new gaskets for sure. All the parts seem to be there though. I plan on getting reman cv axles from autozone to swap in at the same time, as my original ones have been turning for 210k miles and I have a torn boot. I'll report back on the clean up and rebuild of these hubs.

 

Well, here they are. I'm parking the truck for awhile until I gather all parts to do the front end work. Makes sense to me to swap the hubs and axles at the same time. In the meantime I'm soaking everything in PB to help things along.


I went ahead and hit the exposed bare metal with some Rustoleum:

 

Out of order I know, but I was digging through some pictures on my old phone and found some "before" pics of the frame... "after pics" are at the bottom of page 1 of my build thread:


And most commonly the worst part on these trucks from what I've seen is on the passenger side near the front spring hanger. This was all cut out and patched with new metal.

 

I live in WV too. I am nea r the elkview area. My frame was rusting in the same area as yours just not as bad. Take a look.[URL="

 

Another question. What junkyard did you get those hubs from. Ripely isn't too far away from elkview. I'd like to get a fender and a used 3rd member with 4.88's.

 

wvyotaboy: It's called Jordan Auto parts in Mt. Morris, PA. Not sure how many yota's they actually have. Used to be a u-pull-it, but now it's just a they-pull-it I guess.

Speaking of your frame take a look back through my build thread, I recommend the POR-15 products. It's been driven through one winter since then and held up nicely. Of course you can't completely stop the frame rust/rot because it comes from the inside out but hopefully I extended the life of it. I'm looking into purchasing a half frame from BudBuilt one of these days for a permanent solution.

Nice to see someone from the area on here too - Best of luck

 

I am close to that junkyard as well. I live about an hour north of Morgantown on rt 51. There is a upull it junkyard a couple miles from my house that has a couple 90s 4runners and a couple 90s toyota pickups. Wvyotaboy: what fender are you looking for as a have a couple that I'm getting rid of.

 

Dear 94mackyota I pm'ed you about the fender.

to 94 sr5 mountaineer, thanks for the name, I wrote it down so I could find the exact address on google maps, and I was able to find it. Thank you sooooooo much!

 

Got these hub faces and dials painted: rustoleum hammered black and sunrise red. The red matches the original color almost perfectly.


I've seen some guys on here sand off the tops of the letters to make them pop, may give it a try.

Although it drives straight as an arrow I'm sure the truck needs some attention on the front end at 208k miles. My plans right now are do one side at a time and do the following:
Swap ADD to manual hubs
Check brakes
Swap CV axles
Repack bearings
Tighten/torque spindle nut
Possibly BJ spacers
I have a couple weeks off between finals and my internship so it looks like I have something to keep me busy.

 

Looks great! I really like rustoleum paint products. I have had great luck with the hammered and professional stuff.

 

Two weeks is plenty of time. Especially if you are doing it yourself. I wish I was allowed to do the stuff on my truck by myself! My dad is the one who wants to always be with me in case of an emergency, especially on the front tortion bars and stuff.

 

Torsion bars aren't bad, just tightening two bolts is all it takes! Make sure you soak with PB a few days in advance though. They can be tough and sometimes will twist off from what I hear. Mine went smooth though.

 

That's what I told my dad, but he says if something goes wrong, it can be fatal. And I have been soaking it for about a week. Hope to keep soaking until the end of April to do it or get some time.

 

I know exactly where thats at. I grew up In Southwestern PA and we used to head that was all the time. We would also go watch the pro motocross at Highpoint Raceway in Mt. Morris every year. I actually shattered my wrist at Pyramid Valley in Lost Creek WV in 2004 messing around on the track. HAHA.

There are alot of good yards in the southwest PA area if you WV boys dont mind driving. Like in New Alexandria PA, or on Banning Rd just outside of Perryopolis in Dawson, PA