Mountain Cop's 1986 4Runner Build-Up Thread - "FireRunner"
#322
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From: Central Sierra Nevadas (Oakhurst)
He likes it. I can't wait to get mine done. The IFS did fine, but I should have left my skidplate on. I was getting hung up on the bracket and diff. It isn't long for this world anyway!
Thanks for the segue....
I finished my front hanger today, and got it and a front frame plate / winch mount brace installed.
Here is my front frame reinforcement piece from the front. We added four 3/4" nuts to the back of it and clearanced the stock front frame piece for them. We also added two pieces of tubing that will protrude through the frame and into a piece of 1/4" angle iron at the back of the stock front crossmember.
From the front:

From the back with the bolts and tubing welded in:

On the truck:

My goal is to keep the truck on 33's for now, and perhaps 35's later on. I am also trying to gain some approach angle and corner angles by moving the front axle forward. This will reduce the angle at which my front driveline must point due to the increased distance between my transfer case and my pinion. It also moves my tires well out of the way of the pinch weld and rear side of my fenders. By lengthening the wheelbase, I will increase my turning radius, and make myself more prone to belly strikes, but I will increase stability in most situations. I would rather armor the underbelly of the vehicle than deal with increased chances of a rollover.
With that said, I have the unfair advantage of having helped Dbcfr with his SAS recently, and have a good example to look at and measure while I'm planning. Dbcfr, at full bump on the driver's side has 3.5" of clearance between the rear of his steering arm (at its rearmost point) and the front of his tie rod. By moving the axle about 1" to 1.5" forward, I will have 2 to 2.5" of clearance, and will have moved the axle closer to the highest part of the frame arch. Here are some detail pics of that area of Dbcfr's ride, which are here as much for my reference as anything else.
Steering arm- tie rod clearance:

Frame - front spring eye relationship

Frame arch


Approach angle with 35's at rest:

So, we mocked my front hanger up, and decided to add just a few more cows' worth of beef. We added a piece of 1.5"x 1.5" 1/4" wall tubing to the rear of my hanger cross member. Here is the finished hanger;



We then spaced it such that 2.5" of spring hanger protruded from the outermost portion of the frame from either side. The spring eye bolt should be tangent at its rearmost point to the prolongation of the front of the frame, leaving 3" of exposed hanger box to the front of the frame.


I guess this is the official start of my SAS. I want it done by St Paddy's day. That isn't for any particular reason, but it seems like a good goal. I still need to get some 1/4" x 2" strapping and trade in my TG steering arm for a flat one, but other than that I am ready to go.
Off to bed. Gangsters to catch tomorrow.
Thanks for the segue....
I finished my front hanger today, and got it and a front frame plate / winch mount brace installed.
Here is my front frame reinforcement piece from the front. We added four 3/4" nuts to the back of it and clearanced the stock front frame piece for them. We also added two pieces of tubing that will protrude through the frame and into a piece of 1/4" angle iron at the back of the stock front crossmember.
From the front:

From the back with the bolts and tubing welded in:

On the truck:

My goal is to keep the truck on 33's for now, and perhaps 35's later on. I am also trying to gain some approach angle and corner angles by moving the front axle forward. This will reduce the angle at which my front driveline must point due to the increased distance between my transfer case and my pinion. It also moves my tires well out of the way of the pinch weld and rear side of my fenders. By lengthening the wheelbase, I will increase my turning radius, and make myself more prone to belly strikes, but I will increase stability in most situations. I would rather armor the underbelly of the vehicle than deal with increased chances of a rollover.
With that said, I have the unfair advantage of having helped Dbcfr with his SAS recently, and have a good example to look at and measure while I'm planning. Dbcfr, at full bump on the driver's side has 3.5" of clearance between the rear of his steering arm (at its rearmost point) and the front of his tie rod. By moving the axle about 1" to 1.5" forward, I will have 2 to 2.5" of clearance, and will have moved the axle closer to the highest part of the frame arch. Here are some detail pics of that area of Dbcfr's ride, which are here as much for my reference as anything else.
Steering arm- tie rod clearance:

Frame - front spring eye relationship

Frame arch


Approach angle with 35's at rest:

So, we mocked my front hanger up, and decided to add just a few more cows' worth of beef. We added a piece of 1.5"x 1.5" 1/4" wall tubing to the rear of my hanger cross member. Here is the finished hanger;



We then spaced it such that 2.5" of spring hanger protruded from the outermost portion of the frame from either side. The spring eye bolt should be tangent at its rearmost point to the prolongation of the front of the frame, leaving 3" of exposed hanger box to the front of the frame.


I guess this is the official start of my SAS. I want it done by St Paddy's day. That isn't for any particular reason, but it seems like a good goal. I still need to get some 1/4" x 2" strapping and trade in my TG steering arm for a flat one, but other than that I am ready to go.
Off to bed. Gangsters to catch tomorrow.
Last edited by Mountain Cop; Feb 23, 2011 at 04:47 PM.
#323
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From: Central Sierra Nevadas (Oakhurst)
Two more pics. I took these this morning on my way out the door to go to work. Primer hides a multitude of sins (or at least little scuffs and things that probably bother me more than anyone else).


#324
looking good man, cant wait to get some funds so I can start mine. I need to get that hanger from you!! and anything else you guys dont need that i may be able to use. I am hoping to get my axle build going early next month. not that far away.
#325
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Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Central Sierra Nevadas (Oakhurst)
If you get yours done as well, then perhaps we need to organize a Yotatech Dusey-Ershim run some weekend this summer. I think RMA is heading down to do some snow-wheeling this weekend. I still need to see what my weekend schedule is going to look like.
I think I'm going to add a gusset from the back portion of the hanger boxes to the frame just inside the motor mount gussets, as well as gussets and braces from the rear of the hanger cross member and frame cross member to the inside of the frame near the motor mounts.
I think I'm going to add a gusset from the back portion of the hanger boxes to the frame just inside the motor mount gussets, as well as gussets and braces from the rear of the hanger cross member and frame cross member to the inside of the frame near the motor mounts.
#326
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Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 504
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From: Central Sierra Nevadas (Oakhurst)
I got a little bit done today. Not much, but other family obligations came first.
I cut my disc brake backing plates off of the rings and made backing plate eliminators out of them. I saved myself $20.00. Aisin hubs are just about assembled. Hopefully Monday I will have time to pick up some 2 1/2" 1/4" strap so that I can armor the bottom of my frame rails, as well as a set of Bilstein 14" shocks for the front. I got 12"ers with my kit, which I will use on the back axle. I'd like to get my front axle fully built on Monday, and hopefully cut the IFS off next weekend. We shall see.
I cut my disc brake backing plates off of the rings and made backing plate eliminators out of them. I saved myself $20.00. Aisin hubs are just about assembled. Hopefully Monday I will have time to pick up some 2 1/2" 1/4" strap so that I can armor the bottom of my frame rails, as well as a set of Bilstein 14" shocks for the front. I got 12"ers with my kit, which I will use on the back axle. I'd like to get my front axle fully built on Monday, and hopefully cut the IFS off next weekend. We shall see.
#327
getter done. I just got a line on some longfields in oakurst that i may get tommorrow for my axle build. save a few bucks. trying to collect all the parts to get my axle build going. sounds like it may be a long weekend next weekend.
#328
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From: Central Sierra Nevadas (Oakhurst)
So, after replacing a coupling in my (my wife's?) washing machine, I finally got to work on the truck. I'm breaking for lunch right now, but so far I've rebuilt both Birfields, and got a spare 4.11 open 4 cyl diff cleaned up and ready to install. I would like to get my front axle assembled today. That leaves next weekend open to start cutting and welding.
I also picked up some 2" x 1/4" strap for plating the bottom of the frame under the front portion, and grabbed a piece of 3/16" sheet that should work for outer plates. Steel is getting expensive!
I also picked up some 2" x 1/4" strap for plating the bottom of the frame under the front portion, and grabbed a piece of 3/16" sheet that should work for outer plates. Steel is getting expensive!
#329
If you get yours done as well, then perhaps we need to organize a Yotatech Dusey-Ershim run some weekend this summer. I think RMA is heading down to do some snow-wheeling this weekend. I still need to see what my weekend schedule is going to look like.
I think I'm going to add a gusset from the back portion of the hanger boxes to the frame just inside the motor mount gussets, as well as gussets and braces from the rear of the hanger cross member and frame cross member to the inside of the frame near the motor mounts.
I think I'm going to add a gusset from the back portion of the hanger boxes to the frame just inside the motor mount gussets, as well as gussets and braces from the rear of the hanger cross member and frame cross member to the inside of the frame near the motor mounts.
wasnt able to make it out there .. my roof(on my house) started leaking on thursday , removed and replaced 3 bundles of shingles on saturday ..was really to bad, it turned out to be great weather this weekend , at least out here.
and one of my friends had to work saturday he had inspection today and didnt finish friday.
But yea a Yotatech Dusey-Ershim run would be great ...
Last edited by RMA; Mar 3, 2011 at 09:36 AM.
#330
that would be fun. i would be up for a dusy trip if the timing is right. that front hanger looks beef!!! I picked up some stock birfs and inners, how do you rebuild them??is that just taking them apart, cleaning and regrease??
#331
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From: Central Sierra Nevadas (Oakhurst)
I got home before midnight! This is good. My hands were starting to get cold. The diff, axles and spindles are all on. The driver's side is done, all the way out to the locking hubs. I found that I had somehow misplaced the washer that goes between the bearing and the retaining nut. I will have to drop by a dealership tomorrow and try to get one so that I can finish the axle.
Dbcfr and I are tentatively planning on firing up the plasma and letting the IFS drop on Friday, if I can get the time off work, then trying to get the lion's share of the swap done by the time I have to go back to work next Tuesday. It will be a long weekend.
#332
That is only if you get the steering arm Friday morning and get here early we should have it sitting on the ground by saturday night on your new SA... We will do beefing up on Monday driving it home Monday night...at least that's the plan?
#336
Just read your thread. Your Runner has quite a journey from the burned out barn. If you haven't installed a proportioning valve yet for your rear brakes, here is something that will work.
The 5M-Ge that I installed in my pick-up a few years back came out of a 88 Cressida. At the same time I noticed that the master cylinder was 15/16" bore and the car had 4 wheel disc brakes. Mounted just below the master cylinder is a factory Toyota proportioning valve, so I mounted the master cylinder, made a bracket for the proportioning valve mounted it to the inner fender, and used the factory pipes from the master cylinder to the valve. Everything was bolt in and my brakes have worked great (I still have drums on the back) and I didn't have to play with any adjustments.
There are lots of these cars in the junk yards, might be a cheap way to go.
The 5M-Ge that I installed in my pick-up a few years back came out of a 88 Cressida. At the same time I noticed that the master cylinder was 15/16" bore and the car had 4 wheel disc brakes. Mounted just below the master cylinder is a factory Toyota proportioning valve, so I mounted the master cylinder, made a bracket for the proportioning valve mounted it to the inner fender, and used the factory pipes from the master cylinder to the valve. Everything was bolt in and my brakes have worked great (I still have drums on the back) and I didn't have to play with any adjustments.
There are lots of these cars in the junk yards, might be a cheap way to go.
#337
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Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Central Sierra Nevadas (Oakhurst)
HadMatt- great tip, thanks!
LET THE SAS BEGIN!
We are well past the point of no return. I took the day off and swapped out my 13" shock hoops for 14"ers down at TrailGear. I also swapped out my dropped steering arm for a flat one. I will likely have to modify the 14" hoops to gain the shock position that I want, but this puts me close.
We had the IFS on the floor by 2:00pm.
Here are the obligatory "before" pics:



Just for comparison, here is a side by side pic of my rig and Dbcfr's after his SAS, but with my ride still at stock front ride height. His has a 3" body lift, and a hybrid RUF pack up front, flat steering arm and identical plating and shock setup to what I am running. I'll make sure we take an "after" pic of the rigs side by side as well.

And here is the end result of day 1 (thanks to copious plasma work, and the demise of 5 cutoff discs and one grinding wheel)


This is the bottom of the frame. We plated it with 2" x 1/4" strap. The sides will be plated with a combination of 1/4" plates and 3/16" plates.

Tomorrow we hope to get started by 11. Pics will follow.
MC
LET THE SAS BEGIN!
We are well past the point of no return. I took the day off and swapped out my 13" shock hoops for 14"ers down at TrailGear. I also swapped out my dropped steering arm for a flat one. I will likely have to modify the 14" hoops to gain the shock position that I want, but this puts me close.
We had the IFS on the floor by 2:00pm.
Here are the obligatory "before" pics:



Just for comparison, here is a side by side pic of my rig and Dbcfr's after his SAS, but with my ride still at stock front ride height. His has a 3" body lift, and a hybrid RUF pack up front, flat steering arm and identical plating and shock setup to what I am running. I'll make sure we take an "after" pic of the rigs side by side as well.

And here is the end result of day 1 (thanks to copious plasma work, and the demise of 5 cutoff discs and one grinding wheel)


This is the bottom of the frame. We plated it with 2" x 1/4" strap. The sides will be plated with a combination of 1/4" plates and 3/16" plates.

Tomorrow we hope to get started by 11. Pics will follow.
MC
Last edited by Mountain Cop; Mar 5, 2011 at 12:50 AM.


