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Stripers unite! Does your truck have any evidence of a previously installed visor above the windshield? My 4runner was dealer upgraded in the 80's as a package that included stripes, 31's, a bull bar, visor, front window guards and a bug deflector. Yours has a lot of those same elements and your stripes aren't factory vinyl so I'm wondering if yours may have been as well. I look forward to seeing your truck progress. I learned to wrench from my Dad; your son will never forget the memories from this build up. Good luck and happy Father's Day!
Josch
Well, no visor, but it did have a bull bar and bug screen that i promptly removed. The bull bar mounting looked too hack to have been dealer installed.
it was hot here today, 80s and sunny and we got the Kayline all buttoned down. I wish i could say its a thing of beauty, maybe from 15 feet. Some of those snaps i am willing to bet no one has ever gotten to attach in the position Kayline intended.
Last edited by Melrose 4r; 06-19-2017 at 03:31 AM.
BTW, I found that Summit Racing was cheaper than NAPA on quality replacement parts and offer free shipping on most orders (I think you've gotta spend a certain amount). Any who. I got MOOG BJ's and TRE's from Summit for cheaper than I could find them anywhere else and their customer service is on point. I had a couple of returns/exchanges in the past couple of months and they made it very simple and painless. Not paid by Summit btw. I wish I were. It's actually quite the opposite. I pay them.
thanks, ive had very good experiences with both Summit and Jegs. After my bad experience with the clutch slave cyl i got from Advance auto and my good experience with the NAPA one(see video above) and a similar experience with junk Autozone versus NAPA brake cylinders for my old Camaro, i am sticking with NAPA. But after i get all these steering parts, i dont think there is much more i'll need to buy...i say half jokingly.
for idle, there is an idle adjust screw, and another for AC. make sure the gaskets on them are good, and make sure they're set correctly. If they're old and ruined hardware store replacements are easy.
curious, do you still have an EGR system?
I've been having hard starts and idle control issues for months, pretty sure i need to clean everything (injectors, temp sensors, etc.)
But it always starts, so I haven't gotten around to it yet...
Re: parts
I've NEVER had a good experience with autozone, and some so bad I almost wrote letters to headquarters, stranded in atlanta all we need is an alternator and the manager literally locks us out 20 min before closing.
rockauto for cheap stuff. do NOT try to get a heater core there though. Or anywhere really. Everyone claims to have one but they're all the wrong size.
enough ranting
Advanced and oreilleys are usually fine
critical parts i go quality napa or summit or
LCE if you want to throw money at it
for idle, there is an idle adjust screw, and another for AC. make sure the gaskets on them are good, and make sure they're set correctly. If they're old and ruined hardware store replacements are easy.
curious, do you still have an EGR system?
I've been having hard starts and idle control issues for months, pretty sure i need to clean everything (injectors, temp sensors, etc.)
But it always starts, so I haven't gotten around to it yet...
Re: parts
I've NEVER had a good experience with autozone, and some so bad I almost wrote letters to headquarters, stranded in atlanta all we need is an alternator and the manager literally locks us out 20 min before closing.
rockauto for cheap stuff. do NOT try to get a heater core there though. Or anywhere really. Everyone claims to have one but they're all the wrong size.
enough ranting
Advanced and oreilleys are usually fine
critical parts i go quality napa or summit or
LCE if you want to throw money at it
welcome to yotatech!
hi! Thanks, i found the idle screw and raised it up about a hundred rpms hot. Autozone is almost never a good experience for me. I experienced the same heater core difficulty on my '67 Camaro. Ironically, i got the correctly-sized one from Autozone but it was listed incorrectly in their records.
i promise more pics soon! Had to wrap up quickly this afternoon and head to Fenway Park for the Dead and Co. Show with my best man.
Some progress tonight!
picked up all my new parts front end from Napa today and my son pulled the old idler arm off and installed the new one, mostly by himself. He seems to really like the impact gun. The two idler arms were a bit different in construction. The old one had two zerk fittings on it and a shorter verticle shaft. The truck has 178k miles on it and i think this may very well have been the original idler arm.
then i started pulling the hub apart on the driver's side to get to the loose wheel bearing. I forgot the trick to getting those conical bushings out so i had to consult the service manual i just bought off ebay. Did not have the brass pin they recommend to use to hit the bolts so i doubled up the nuts on each bolt to protect the threads then hit them with a hammer and that worked fine. Ran out of daylight so i didnt make it all the way to the wheel bearing. Tomorrow i'll chase parts on my lunch hour and try to get a bearing set locally.
Also found that whoever put the fancy wheels on this rig did not spring for the right lug nuts. They appear to be short stock black acorns and are a bit recessed in the wheel and really difficult to fit a socket on. So i'm ordering some quality longer chrome ones from Summit.
by the way if anyone can tell me exactly what kind of rims these are i would be very happy. They look like American Racing Ar23 but are not. Instead if rivets around the inner rim they have little 12point headed bolts and the rear centercaps say LCM on them if that means anything.
while i was in there i also checked the ball joints and could see significant play on the upper. They did not fail me for these at inspection, but i think they didnt look closely enough. Good thing i bought all four. They look original.
Last edited by Melrose 4r; 06-20-2017 at 07:26 PM.
Original idler arms didn't have zerk fittings (i think), been awhile since I looked at mine
do some research, lots of the aftermarket idler arms are cheap plastic bushings and will wear out quick, there's one or 2 with upgradable metal greaseable bushings
no first-hand experience with how much of an issue it is
4crawlers website has a small manifesto on the topic i think
Proforged is supposed to be good. I got one 6 months ago, then realized the one on there isn't actually bad, so it sits waiting
Original idler arms didn't have zerk fittings (i think), been awhile since I looked at mine
do some research, lots of the aftermarket idler arms are cheap plastic bushings and will wear out quick, there's one or 2 with upgradable metal greaseable bushings
no first-hand experience with how much of an issue it is
4crawlers website has a small manifesto on the topic i think
Proforged is supposed to be good. I got one 6 months ago, then realized the one on there isn't actually bad, so it sits waiting
yeah, i did see the plastic bushings available, however mine had the play on the ball joint end so that wouldn't have worked for me. Wherever possible i'll take greasable components over non-greasable and there are some accounts of idler arms not lasting that i have read or seen on youtube, but realistically, if i put 5k miles per year on this truck, that will be a lot so the non-greasable one should stand up ok.
Finally remembered to take some photos before it got dark out.
The new top in place. Passenger side Rear Front bumper and grille will be replaced soon.
I started investigating the lack of fast idle when cold. I tested the auxiliary air valve and it seems to be working normally. Then i noticed i could hear a vacuum leak and found one of the three small hoses on top of the throttle body was cracked. I just cut off the cracked end and reinstalled it but the vac leak was still there. I started feeling around, moving hoses and noticed when i squeezed the rubber elbow in front of the throttle body, the idle changed. Wow! Thats not supposed to happen. Here's the leak,
So i have a new one of these on order from Summit along with new lug nuts and center caps. They had the best price and free shipping over $99.
the intake hose is P/n Dorman 696-707, $37.
so for now i wrapped duct tape around it to stop the leak.
cant wait for the weekend to dive into the wheel bearing, 4ball joints and 4tie rod ends project.
Last edited by Melrose 4r; 06-22-2017 at 07:40 PM.
Was it hard to do? About how long did it take? I need a lot of new front end parts but it handles well so far.
i have air tools so this is a quick job. My son did it mostly by himself, while i gave instructions. It took less than a half hour. And we didn't even have to pull a wheel or jack it up. The only special tool required is a "pickle fork" for splitting the ball joint end from the centerlink. You can borrow one from any decent parts store. I drove it up the street after and the steering is noticeably less sloppy. It will be absolutely "new feeling" once the ball joints and tie rod ends are replaced. Will get an alignment also.
So what's wrong with the grille?
been looking for one of that style. Also have a brand new one laying around I'd sell for cheap
it doesnt show in the pics but it is pitted and has some small cracks where the bull bar was mounted. The truck was in a fender bender at one time that pushed the bumper back on the pass side. The bumper and brackets are bent So i bought a new bumper, brackets, grille and headlight surrounds. The chrome 84-86 grilles seem kind of hard to find right now but lowrange offroad in Colorado has a couple.
it doesnt show in the pics but it is pitted and has some small cracks where the bull bar was mounted. The truck was in a fender bender at one time that pushed the bumper back on the pass side. The bumper and brackets are bent So i bought a new bumper, brackets, grille and headlight surrounds. The chrome 84-86 grilles seem kind of hard to find right now but lowrange offroad in Colorado has a couple.
Funny, i had the exact same problem with mine, had to get the exact same parts, must be a common issue
i had ordered a chrome one that style from summit racing, but it was all scratched up when i got it so i returned it.
I have 3 laying around, can't justify buying another, lol
Major progress this evening. I removed the hub and rotor, tie rod and both ball joints on the driver's side.
See anything wrong in this photo? I think i am going to scold the guys who DIDN'T find this in the inspection!
Supposed to be 4 bolts holding the ball joint in. Not two!
06-18-2017, 06:51 PM
