jason in tn

Thanks mark like I said too it will look much better with some taller tires on it,

Thanks terry, you've got the springs to do the zuk mod like I did. Just buy a lift for your 3rd Gen and poof free springs lol.

Hey cyber horn, it does seem my coils stand out more than others I've seen and I'm not sure why, maybe its just because I know they're there.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Found this link as well for other diagrams. Posing on mine for reference too. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...-diagrams.html

jason in tn

took some time today and sorted out my vacume lines I think I got them all in place finally. got my knock sensor fixed, and now no more CEL yea. Its runner great but idleing really low so I will have to dig into that next. merry christmas all.

Cyberhorn The Dragon

did ya remove the negative cable for a bit to let it clear the ecu? might help it might think its still got the knock sensor out of action

if not then the AFM might need cleaning or adjustment

happy holidays jason it was great to talk to ya
a very good new year to come

jason in tn

thanks cyber, I did disconect the battery for a few, I hope it was long enough to reset the ecm. I havent tryed adjusting the idle yet so Im gonna try that.
It was good talking to you to, I got started on that carb still scared about it but I got it tore down and soaking in the berrymans.
happy hollidays to aswell man.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

OH NOOOOOOO, .... not the 'Gremlins' again! .... Freak'n Magwai! lol.

I swear..... I'm SO tired of that 'idle down on warm restarts after sitting for 20 min. + ...... GRRRR! haha...

FIX YOURS... then come fix mine, k? RIGHT ON, sounds good!

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

On #451 is alot of info for you heater core. Check for the link that I found where someone has some really good pics. Usually if I copy and paste not all of the links make it over. NVesert runner thread.

Link>>> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...9/index19.html

jason in tn

So basically I need to by terry a plain ticket and let him fix it, sounds like a plan to me lol. Thanks for the info terry.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

LOL... It really isnt as bad as it is made out to be. When you get into it, just holler, I could step you alot of the way over the phone if you get in a pickel.

jason in tn

got out and tinkered with a few thing today. I have had a problem with the heater blowing hot air so I dicided to see if I could find the issue. I pulled the blower motor which was lose and letting air escape around it I think thats also where some of my fan noise was comeing from but that wasnt the problem so I pulled the a/c unit and blew it out it was full of crap. I have a question about that but I will get to that in a min. while I had it apart I was looking for other issues and discovered my problem, the fresh air/ reserculated door has broke off the rod and fell down flat against the air intake for the fan blocking off all air to it. I hate to admit it but I had to jerry rig it in the fresh air position untill I have time to pull the whole unit out and fix it rite but atleast at the moment the heat works again.
the thing I have a ? about is this



this is mounted to the a/c portion of the box, it also has a probe stuck in the coils of the a/c unit as well as some wires tied into the factory wireing who ever did it did a nice job all conections were heat shrinked nice conectors etc but I have no idea what it is.
I also dug into my small oil leak on the front of the motor, I found 2 bolts in the timeing cover that where a little lose also snugged all the pan bolts up just for good mesure.
changed the oil for the second time and then called it a day on this one.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

My heater is taking FOREVER to get hot.... It eventually does... but WOW! Also, I'm hearing TONS of "Swushhhhhhhhhhh" in the dash, obviously the heater core... Is that normal? I never remember hearing that. I'm thinking maybe I have a BAD air in the coolant issue. I still have to replace the heater hose to the Prestone T that I have, going to the longer hard coolant line that feeds the timing cover.. And I still need to fix/replace my climate control apparatus... TERRY, COME HERE FIRST! lol... BUT, I think it's just not being able to circulate coolant right... and NEVER overheating, etc.. Not even under tremendous load... NEVER does... BUT, if air is getting pulled in due to that hose being compromised(only enough to pull in air, not really leak hardly at all).... could that be causing that "Swushhhhhhh" ? Could it be causing that tripping out at hot restarts issue, too? (where it idles down to 450rpm or so and runs REALLY chunky on warm restarts?)

Chaviator

I do not know about what it is that the toyota pick ups and 4runners have that they all rust in the same place... I do not have an issue with that, but I would like to know what it is so that I can prevent that from happening to my truck. You guys know of any solvent or chemical I can use on the holes drilled on the fenders to install flares so that I can prevent from rusting the metal and damaging the paint??? Please any suggestions I really appreciate it. By the way, that engine looks really good. Every time I do some maintenance or part replacement, I make sure I clean everything on the area and paint the parts with durable, heat resistance ceramic paint. I tell you, they look good and last clean much longer...

Chaviator

At some point the beginning of this winter, I started noticing that my heater was not working properly. Some times had a little heat and other times nothing. I did a good flashing of the system. I installed a T adapter on one of the hoses close to the firewall and by the cold/hot valve and then plugged the garden hose for a few minutes. Then I filled it up with the antifreeze and started my truck until it was warm with the heater all the way up. Now I have heat even more than what I had before. I was thinking that I had to replace the heater core. Just knowing that I had to take my whole dash apart to do that, I did not hesitate to run the flush first on the system and there I had good results. Try that, it might work for you. Good luck!

Cyberhorn The Dragon

that looks like an aftermarket pressure valve jason might be the factory switch in the compressor went bad? scritches head

chaviator undercoat, primer an paint any hole to help prevent rust threads you can seal with silicone to help as well

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Interesting looking lil valve.... The RPM Cycling thingy... maybe they moved it? I don't remember it looking like that........ BUT, if it's aftermarket, as suggested, maybe that's a bypass they did?

You'll get it..... like me, 'EVENTUALLY', haha.

Chaviator

Thank you cyberhorn. Before and after i install the fender flares i will apply some under coating behind the holes and installing them put some silicon in the holes and screws. Do you think it is a good idea to wax that area under the fender flares, not exposed surface, to protect from any rust or paint fading, damage...?

Cyberhorn The Dragon

well paint wont fade under the flare bein protected wax it wont help much as a result they make a vinyl rock guard stuff sticks on use a hair drier to smooth it an mold it to shape that! might protect the paint from the flares scratching an scuffing the paint i dont know never tried it figure if your putting flares on you have to accept a bit of paint wear

jason in tn

Hey guys I've been out of the loop for a few days, the little thermo switch or what ever its called seems to have been installed very cleanly so I'm assuming it was replacing a factory part, I will dig into it more when I start on the a/c later this year hopefully it won't be to big of a headache. In other news I took the runner on about a 200 mile round trip ride, I have to say it was great being able to drive it, no major issues to speak of had an air bubble work out of the radiator and a bit of drive line vibration but since I haven't checked U joints and the like yet I'm assuming that's that's the issue. Have some drafts I need to run down just little things like that. The engine is running great pulls good at all RPMs. My biggest complaint was NO FRIGGIN RADIO lol, I know I needed to listen to engine and drive train and that was nice for the first 30 mls or so but it sure made for a long trip, so a stereo of some sort is in the near future. Anyway thanks for checking in guys.

Chaviator

Thank you cyberhorn. As I was waiting for your response, what I did was remove the fender flares, clean the holes with a solvent and apply paint in them with a q-tip and let them dry good. Then applied a little bit of clear silicon in the holes. On the flares, I applied silicon on each of the attaching holes and placed the rubber strip right on it. Once there, I applied a line of silicon right on the edge of that rubber strip and let it dry as well, basically this edge is what makes contact with the fenders or body of the car and having the line of flexible silicon on it, I assume this will help keeping dust and water from getting in there from any side and running in the holes causing rust eventually. I figure it will help by keeping a sealed tight edge. Plus, by the silicon being flexible it won't rub the paint causing marks or scratches in which salts can get in it and start the rust. Besides that, I will apply a good coat of rust oleum paint and/or rubber undercoating for extra protection under the fenders. Please, if you have any other suggestions, opinions in order to prevent rust and keep paint in good condition in general, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanx... Tell me what you guys think of what I did to maintain rust free fenders... By the way, the rubber strip that comes with the flares, it's a little flexible, but not enough to keep off from marking, rubbing the paint after a while... I also hope this idea can help anyone who is trying to keep the truck rust free!

Cyberhorn The Dragon

sounds like youve done everything humanly possible to keep rust from eating your steel anything more would be incredibly expensive to ridiculous in execution an cost for a 4runner

yearly checks of your undercoat fixing any chips or loose spots spots of rust that might start should be about it