irab88's 1993 PickUp Build-Up Thread

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Dec 19, 2011 | 05:34 AM
  #1141  
so i'm driving down the road, and i shift into fourth. i let off the clutch (my foot is not on the pedal). the rpm's stay around where i shifted from, then go down to where they should be, while the speed stays constant.

is this clutch slipping? i think it is, but thought i'd ask those who've played with these trucks longer than i have
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Dec 19, 2011 | 05:39 AM
  #1142  
when was your clutch last replaced? Generally a clutch won't slip unless you have been riding the clutch and the plate gets glazed. Just touching the clutch pedal can make it slip. Usually when a clutch goes you won't be able to shift thru the gears.

Were you 'ON' the gas? Odd that it was fourth, usually the lower gears will let is slip easier because of the torque.
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Dec 19, 2011 | 06:08 AM
  #1143  
Sounds like clutch to me. Usually when mine start to go I see it in the higher gears more then the lower ones but usually on the gas after a shift. But this was on a track car not this truck.
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Dec 19, 2011 | 06:16 AM
  #1144  
it's more like brandon's description. yes, i was on the gas, and after easing off, it caught.

i don't know when the last time the clutch was replaced, but i can check. i do know that we got the truck at 133, and it's sitting at 190 right now, and it's never been replaced.

any way to check without removing the tranny? i'm not opposed to changing a clutch if i need to.
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Dec 19, 2011 | 06:18 AM
  #1145  
Nope gots ta remove trans. No way to see the disk behind the pressure plate.
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Dec 19, 2011 | 06:21 AM
  #1146  
k thx

i didn't know if there was an inspection plug or something, to vacuum out all the clutch dust
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Dec 19, 2011 | 06:29 AM
  #1147  
I think there is, but not sure. Your still not gonna see the disc face though.
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Dec 19, 2011 | 06:50 AM
  #1148  
well i stand corrected. at the point you are going to inspect the clutch, you might aswell replace it, especially if its slipping. You will also need to get the flywheel machined, to remove any glazing, and give the next clutch good bite. IIRC the machine shop will need to match the step in the flywheel to the pressure plate, or something like that.
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Dec 19, 2011 | 07:00 AM
  #1149  
Mine did the same thing, bad slave and clutch cylinder
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Dec 19, 2011 | 07:08 AM
  #1150  
i was just planning on a full marlin kit.

i'm not too sure where a good machine shop is, let alone any shop, around here. i might just get a new flywheel to minimize downtime, now that my brother is home and all 4 cars are in use
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Dec 19, 2011 | 07:13 AM
  #1151  
Quote: Mine did the same thing, bad slave and clutch cylinder


how would this cause a slipping clutch? (or the symptoms of a slipping clutch)

not doubting you, just trying to learn here
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Dec 19, 2011 | 08:17 AM
  #1152  
not sure.. maybe it got fixed after I adjusted my clutch pedal...

but I had fluid leaking in the cab and at the slave...
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Dec 19, 2011 | 08:35 AM
  #1153  
Quote: ...
but I had fluid leaking in the cab and at the slave...
^ this, i do not have

i'll call marlin up later this week and talk to them 'bout my clutch
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Dec 19, 2011 | 12:46 PM
  #1154  
either way you can adjust your clutch pedal to get some extra life out of it..
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Dec 19, 2011 | 12:49 PM
  #1155  
??? How does adjusting the clutch pedal give you a better grab? What your adjusting is basically how far you engage the master. That pedal doesn't help the clutch grip, it helps it disengage. If the pedal is "too loose" the clutch won't disengage as much and possibly cause you not to be able to shift gears. If "too tight" I am not sure of the side effects, maybe blow out the master?

Of course, I've been wrong in the past though.
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Dec 19, 2011 | 02:13 PM
  #1156  
Mine was adjusted too tight and was not releasing all the way
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Dec 19, 2011 | 05:07 PM
  #1157  
i bet the clutch is ok but the rear main seal could be dripping ever so slightly on to the clutch disk and causing it to slip i had one do this, never notticed oil spots until a few days after i first notticed the slip, mine slipped mostly in 4th or 5th gear esp. up long hills id be driving and the engine speed would just go up. but if you do the clutch or the rear main you might as well do both if not its a vary risky gamble
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Dec 19, 2011 | 05:42 PM
  #1158  
grrr... not another main oil seal!

though, highly unlikely, because the clutch still will grab like normal all the time. it's just shifting into certain gears that it slips while on the throttle
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Dec 20, 2011 | 03:57 AM
  #1159  
im sure a lot of people will agree that while you are in there its worth doing both. i knew a guy who didnt change the rear main and about 10k later he had to do it all over again. once you get the clutch out the rear main is a pice of cake, i think of all the ones i did usually etting them out is the hardest part
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Dec 20, 2011 | 04:22 AM
  #1160  
My 92 22re has 180k on the clock, 2nd clutch just installed at 160k and original rear main, now the 88 3Vz is another story.

I thought you just did the rear main when you dropped the pan?

Ian you going to tackle this in the next few weeks? I'm guessing Rausch Creek would eat the rest of that clutch.

Let me know when you plan on doing it, and i can try to come down to help, no promises as this is a very busy time of year.
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