New Taco rims and no more A/C stuff.

 

Nice rig man

 

Thank you!

 

Been working on swapping the 4.10s in. I swapped the front a week or so ago, and this week I have been working on getting my rust pitted v6 diff broke down and welded up.
To keep from warping the carrier, I took it home with me, put it in the oven for 45mins at 375* pulled it out, welded the side gears to the carrier, then back in for 30 minutes at the same temp. Then the oven was turned off and everything cooled over night. I put the bust 5.29 ring gear on to keep slag off the good 4.10 gear, and off the surface it sits on.
I managed to cook the mess out of one of the bearings, but since the V6 diff uses larger bearing than the 4cly, It went back in. The bearing is a nice blue/purple color now.
Pics of my flux core bogger welds



Took the 4runner out to my test spot and to be honest, I cant really tell a big difference with the 4.10s vs 5.29s... 1st gear high range pulled off alot stronger then I though it would. I looked down and triple check to make sure I wasnt in single low.

 

100th post woot woot!!

 

Good looking build! I have the 5" sas kit on mine as well. How did you handle your front driveshaft issue? Get a new shaft built? I saw you have dual cases. Does your rear driveshaft vibrate quite a bit with the dual cases?

 

Well for starters, I took a few leafs out of my 5" TG leafs to lower it down some and let it flex better. Since the 1st time I took leafs out I have mix and matched and played around with them till I was happy.

When I 1st got my front drive shaft built i was having trouble with the u-joint dont at the diff binding up because I was running it at such a steep angle. It was not long after that, I got dual cases. The dual cases adds something like 6-7 inches to the over all length to the drive train. That means the front output on the transfer case is farther away from the flange on the front diff, which, in turn reduces the angle on both u-joints eliminating my u-joint clearance issue.

As for the rear shaft, I had a friend who was parting out his truck, and I bought the whole shaft from him pre-made.

When the rear drive shaft was put together, great care was take to make sure it was as straight as it could be by eye. Once it was welded together it turned out really nice and turn really smooth and straight. The front shaft however was slapped together by myself in a hurry and is cockeyed. On the trail you cant feel it because you are going so slow, but you can sure see it not spinning true. at more than 20mph it feel like it might just break the transfer case housing it is vibrating so hard, and I am always loosing drive shaft bolts that loosen up under it vibrating. I have plans to cut it apart and re-weld it so it turns true, but you know how it is.. If it ant, broke dont fix it...

I have CV joints on both drive shafts, and they are mounted on the transfer case ends. The front is a CV from a front drive shaft out of a 4 speed truck, and the rear is the factory CV from the old stock front drive shaft from my 4runner.

I am very very please with my drive shafts (minus my sub par assembly of the front shaft) and would recommend them to ANYONE who plans to really wheel anything. I have more than once felt them pound against a rock and turn it into gravel.

 

Been some time since I did anything with my 4runner.... I figured I would take it out and get the fluids moving...


I think I am going to start calling Two-Face... And get a better passanger side spotter..

 

My gas tank has taken a few hits a while back, and I guess the hose finally had enough... the day I go wheeling..

 

Was this at SETO?

 

sure was, did you make it out?

 

No I had planed to but got stuck working. Looks like you had a good time. What trail was the flop on?

 

It was up 15 at the rock just before the ledges at the exit. I was making things harder than thet needed to be....

 

Update:

Made it out to Harlan in October. (no pics though) It was a little wet, and my boggers where sucking it big time on the wet, muddy rocks. I think I would have been better off on ice.

Soooo...I sold off my boggers, and picked up a set of 15x8 beadlocks, and then a set of USED and grooved 38x12.50 TSL.





Also found that the drain bolt in the front diff had been knocked loose. The oil and... what ever else that is now in the front end will need to be removed. I will probably tear the whole front axle down as its been a while since I checked it over...

 

sweet rig

 

I finally got around to getting the 38s mounted on the bead locks. I love the new tires and bead locks. Here is my test hill.