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I was excited to see an update, stupid photobucket
I agree Jake... Quite the PITA to update all the pics. Now I know why ppl don't do it
Originally Posted by 84 yota dude
I use google photos and it seems to work fine
Thanks for the option yota!
Talked to Joe (ladybugRC) and I'm gonna try and use yotatech to host the pics. Figured if its hosted on yotatech, won't need to worry about broken links anymore. Anyway, I updated page 7 and will continue to update previous posts when I can. Wiring is done and will post soon!
Like anything, the wiring is most likely going to be the most difficult part for anyone when converting to power mirror/window/lock. Go to techinfo.toyota.com and get the EWD. Don't let the schematics overwhelm you. It's actually quite easy. Download all of EWDs and then combine them into a single PDF. This provides a single source of searchable content so all wire locations can be found.
Disclaimer: NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY FAILURES, MINOR OR CATASTROPHIC, WITH YOUR TRUCK. I am merely putting what I did out there to possibly help others down the road.
The nomenclature within the EWDs needed are as follows:
F1, G1, F2, G2 - These are the plugs on the driver and passenger side that connect the main wiring to the control modules inside the door. I posted a picture of these 4 pics in the previous post when removing the wiring.
Door control relay - The green box that is pictured in the "spaghetti bowl" picture I previously posted.
1D (Integration relay) - I will post a picture of this later but this is located on the driver side fuse block
1C - Plug also located on the driver side fuse block
I15 (Unlock Warning Switch) - This is the ignition. A plug will be removed from the ignition where a splice is made
D11 & D12 (Door Courtesy Switch) - The "door ajar switches". These are located at the front most inner part of the door. These are what cause the dome light to illuminate when door is open
A1 - Main plug at the very top of the fuse block that the power will be spliced into
Start out by removing your fuse block in the lower part of the drivers side. Next 3 pics give layout for 1C and 1D
I picked up some pure copper wiring online from some RV place. They sold the wire with a pile of different coloring options but I was able to match all of the wires I needed to splice.
If the harness was acquired "properly" (i.e. minimal cuts), Nearly all of the splices need to occur on the drivers side.
The blue/yellow wire from the F1 plug (drivers side), requires a length of cable to be spliced further down
That wire then needs to be spliced with passenger side (G1) and the blue/green wire that goes into the door control module.
Next wire was a black/orange out of 1D. I pulled my harness out of a 93. According to the EWD for the 93, the wire was supposed to be green/black. When referencing the 91 EWD, the wire was in fact black/orange. I wanted to highlight this so others know to look at all possibilities if something does not add up...
Splice the wire and tube it with marine grade shrink tubing (tube all of them of course)
The door courtesy switch has a connector that is the same on both driver/pass side. I disconnected the wire and spliced on the harness side.
Passenger side courtesy switch spliced
Driver/passenger side grounds for new wiring are placed at the existing grounding site
Interestingly enough, a wire was missing out of the 1C plug. Must have been only there for the power option. I sourced the wire/connector from the unused plugs behind the dash. I'm not sure what the plugs go to but I won't be using them so I grabbed the black/yellow wire from the plug to wire into the 1C plug.
The I15 unlock warning switch plug needs to be removed and opened up if your using shrink tubing. My tubing wouldn't fit over the connector end so I cut and spliced.
Open up plug
Cut and splice
I didn't take a picture of the power mirror wire but the wire in the 93 was grey and needs to be spliced into the 1C plug from the F2 plug (drivers side)....
The fuse from the power window and power lock should be intact with only 1 of the wires cut. The cut wire, of course, should feed the fuse from the main power wire. The wire needed is located in the A1 plug. Again, verify all connections and wiring before taking on this task. I'm not responsible for any failure or fires
Remove wire from harness. Can be a pain but patience is key...
Splice the wire from the fuse into it
And should be done... That was my case anyhow. Power locks and power windows are working with the barebones door! To button it up to make it look factory, make sure you grabbed these tabs from your donor...
They will clip onto the side of the fuse panel so the door wire plugs can plug into them.
And final product...
I picked up some power mirrors at the boneyard. Really good shape from a 95 4runner... So far liking the new chromed look as well as the larger mirrors... The power to them works too
dang great job! i did the same thing but i tapped all my wires into their appropriate place on my truck. the only wire i could not figure out where it went was the black yellow. I just ended up hooking it the courtesy door light switch. Also have you test the mirrors yet? i dont know what happened to mine but they all of a sudden stop working. I gotta look under the dash again UGH! but its SOOOO nice to have Power everything now
dang great job! i did the same thing but i tapped all my wires into their appropriate place on my truck. the only wire i could not figure out where it went was the black yellow. I just ended up hooking it the courtesy door light switch. Also have you test the mirrors yet? i dont know what happened to mine but they all of a sudden stop working. I gotta look under the dash again UGH! but its SOOOO nice to have Power everything now
Hey shoes! I haven't truly been able to enjoy it yet but I agree on the power conversion... well worth it. My mirrors work great I'm not sure why yours would stop working as that was an easy splice into the grey wire of the 1C plug (pin 9). Is your stereo working? Check the 7.5 amp radio fuse? I'd check that first and then make sure the plug is seated properly in the door before I ripped apart the dash again. The dash option is not an enjoyable task as you know. I'd save that as last resort
I believe the black and yellow wire you're referring to is from the driver/passenger plugs? If so, it should have to go into the 1C plug in pin 5. See the attached EWD... Hope it helps but I'm betting the courtesy light switch is probably fine considering what it runs. I believe this is the wire I had to make by cannibalizing the wire/connector from the unused plug in the dash.
Finishing touches on the door complete. Part of me wanted to keep the vinyl cards however I wasn't completely opposed to the carpeted card. I test fitted the new interior arm rest and as expected, wouldn't cover up the manual door handle hole.
View doesn't tell the whole story so I mocked it up on the vinyl card
I know some people have found chromed circular plugs to fill the holes but I really didn't like that look. The door handle could be angled a bit to hide the hole behind the armrest but I didn't want to cut another square hole in door frame to accomplish this. I dropped the carpeted card on from the donor and it'll work for now. I'm going to hold onto the vinyl card in case I change my mind down the road.
In order to get the Tacoma pods on, the carpeted pocket needs to be removed.
The speaker pod has a notch at the top and I used that to secure the pod at the top. The vinyl cushion at the top of the card needs to be popped off to do this. The vinyl is stapled so pop these out and then bend the first 3 metal tabs straight. The cushion should lift up and the pod can slide in. I read some people use the Tacoma cushion at the top but the color just didn't work.
I didn't take great before/after pics but the carpeted door cards were a bit dirty which is visible in the above pictures. I took a carpet cleaner with the small attachment and it cleaned up pretty good. I would imagine all of the cards at the junk yards are pretty dirty so don't let that discourage you. Vinyl stays "cleaner" which was the main reason why I wanted to use the vinyl card.
Pod placed on and card cleaned
The speaker pod is a bit long for the application
Scribed and then cut the bottom off
The front of the pod doesn't match the card perfectly but it's close enough. Have to actually look for it to see the pod doesn't belong.
I will be using a 1" speaker ring for a 6.5" speaker. I bought the ring off of amazon. The pod has a plastic circle that is too long and interferes with the speaker.
I took a utility knife and cut it down
I took a 4 and 1/4" hole saw and cut through the door card. Don't forget pilot holes for the pod screws. Be careful as the cotton stuffing/padding in the door will wrap around the drill bit. Hole saw won't have an issue though
I dropped in the new 6.5" speaker with the 1" speaker ring
Back of the card
I put Noico sound deadener into the door but didn't take any pictures. Huge difference in sound and highly recommend it Also ran speaker wire to the door and wrapped it with Tesa tape for protection.
To protect the door from rust/moisture I sprayed fluid film into the bottom of the door.
The plastic liners were ripped so bought some husky 3.5 mm plastic liner from Wal-Mart and some 3m strip caulk off amazon. 3.5mm worked pretty good but if you can find anything thicker that's affordable I'd do that.
Cut it out and put strip caulk on the door. Used the sound deadener roller to smooth out the strip caulk. Put velcro at the top to hold the MLV and CCF combo for sound deadening
Dropped on the CCF and MLV
Forgot to take a picture with the finished product but will grab one next time I work on the truck.
Nice work! Looks like the doors will be well insulated now!
Originally Posted by shoes138
Dang nice work like always... thanks for the helpful tip on the wiring. Ill check on those once i am done dealing with s the shingles virus....
Thanks gents! I agree on the insulation yota dude. The Noico difference alone was substantial. It was very "tinny" and now it sounds incredibly dense and solid. Granted that doesn't reduce road noise, but I'm hoping the MLV and CCF combo will at least make listening to the radio at a decent volume more enjoyable
Sorry to hear about the shingles shoes. I got my shingles bout out of the way when I was much younger. I think I was 17... Fortunately my breakout was smaller than a dollar bill. Hope yah get better!
Doors are officially done! Truth be told I didn't take a final picture because I was having a problem with the drivers door. The light wasn't working and a simple continuity test with a multimeter showed I wasn't getting any voltage to the wire. I had to pull apart the door and take the plastic off to find the issue Pulled on the wire through the grommet a bit because I knew there had to be a cut somewhere. The wire kept coming and I have no idea how it was cut within the grommet but it was...
Had some of the new wire of the same color laying around so I jumped it and all good! To me... Looks pretty darn factory... and I should get a pretty substantial boost in audio.
Not much of an update but FINALLY put in some work.
As previously stated, ToyOnlySwaps did a great job with the harness (do it yourself though ) but my only complaint would be how short or where they wanted the 2 tranny plugs to run. I'm sure it would have been fine but I was hoping for a more "seamless" application with a properly sealed plug. I couldn't find a harness plug anywhere on the internet that would fit into the drain hole of the passenger side where ToyOnlySwaps wanted it to run. I decided to cut the plugs off, extend the wire, and run it through the rubber boot that the fuel pump and rear lighting runs through (excuse the pic. yotatech rotated it sideways)
I used Eastwood black plastic spray paint to freshen up the grill and Toyota emblems. Over the years lots of rock chips out of the black paint exposing chrome underneath. This picture shows the painted grill compared to the unpainted emblem for a "before and after"
Done and then installed
Dumped in the CCF and MLV on the interior
Bought new carpet from Rockauto... ACC brand... I made the mistake of not asking for any samples before making my decision. I bought the dark blue color first which was a mistake because I plan too much and bought the carpet last year. Needless to say, can't return it and it was way too dark. Got samples and Lapis Blue was the best match for the factory color.
Coming out of the box there are some pretty bad creases. I let it sit overnight open and then let it sit in the fall sun for a few hours before throwing it into the truck. Still quite a few creases...
Finished results with dropped in 4runner seats and the double din receiver is in.
Impressions? The ACC carpet isn't perfect... but for a DIY job I guess it's not terrible and looks pretty good. The worst part would be around the rearmost trans tunnel. The wrinkles wouldn't come out. I'm not sure what other options are out there but I tried using a steamer and heat gun to reduce them as much as possible. I suppose the other option would be to have a professional do it for what I imagine would be alot more money. Didn't price out any upholstery shops...
Felt great to sit behind the wheel though Once I get the windshield in I can shore up the rest of the interior. Bought the last hilux rubber gasket in all of North America (from what the toyota parts guy told me). To top it off it was only $40 vs the $200 in those chrome trim rust magnets. I found the part number and verified with Corey at ToyotaFiberglass because he has used and sold them in the past. Problem is the windshield needs to be shaved/grinded down. I need to size it up in the truck to find how much I need to shave off. Special thanks to Corey for all of the help with the gasket! Hoping to get it to a shop this week.
Been at a snails pace here but the tube is in! $10 at a local weld shop. I ended up going with 1 3/4" tubing because that's what he had. I did have thick walled pipe in 1 7/8" which would have been closer to stock but the tubing worked out fine... Just had to fill in with weld in spots especially on the outside.
I mainly used a cutting wheel to get the muffler mounts off. Pretty easy and then just pounded them off. The gas tank mound was a bit trickier. There were 3 welds on the long side. I took a cutting wheel and cut it down the entire length which you can see in the picture which is the side in the vice. The ends would have been a pain so I cut the tubing off a little beyond the weld. For the little support "wings" I took a die grinder and cut from behind the weld to try and get as much of it as I could (remember using smaller tubing).
...
Could not believe that I was seeing this! I am just about to do the same thing on my 93 xtra cab. I found that 1-1/2" schedule 80 pipe (1.90" OD) is the same size as the original tube and it has a good, thick wall (0.20") wall. And it costs less than DOM tubing. I got mine at PAL Steel in Palmyra, WI. They always have bargains on steel. And if new Steel is too expensive, they have a large selection of reclaimed steel.
Could not believe that I was seeing this! I am just about to do the same thing on my 93 xtra cab. I found that 1-1/2" schedule 80 pipe (1.90" OD) is the same size as the original tube and it has a good, thick wall (0.20") wall. And it costs less than DOM tubing. I got mine at PAL Steel in Palmyra, WI. They always have bargains on steel. And if new Steel is too expensive, they have a large selection of reclaimed steel.
Hey wrench! I'm betting the rotted tube is pretty common especially for us in the rust belt Pretty straightforward but hope my experience helped you out. Nice research and source on the steel! I didn't want to wait so I grabbed the closest thing I could find that he had on the shelf. I'll keep PAL steel in mind though if I need to get anything else! Did you start chopping and replacing yours yet? Didn't see anything on your build page yet.
Apparently we don't make windshields like the Canadians do. I bought a PPG/PGW (made in China) windshield for my truck. Part number is;
and I dropped it into the truck to test the fit. The corners worry me but I anticipated the small gaps from others who have posted pictures of their gasket swaps
and the windshield was too big as Cory stated... next pic shows the installed drivers side of the windshield(Note the gap between the gasket and the door)
Next picture shows how the window wouldn't seat on the passenger side. In the case of this window, I need to remove roughly 1/4".
To my surprise, the entire top was approximately 1/4" too long as well. Corey stated his local windshields only needed a 1/4" removed about a 1/4 of the way up the side of the windshield. The PGW windshield didn't treat me too well here. To make matters worse I went to the glass cutters and they gave me an estimate of $175-200
The point of the windshield gasket was to save money and get rid of the trim. Is $330ish every time I need to replace the windshield worth it? And what happens if the windshield breaks on the first try? Difficult decision but I'm leaning towards scrapping the gasket and going back to the trim It's honestly the much cheaper route without any unknowns/hassle. I'm going to try and find a smaller windshield but so far I'm not having any luck. For those looking for the gasket, I talked to my local Toyota shop when I was hunting for a windshield and they stated there is once again 1 more. Maybe they just say that as a selling point
Sounds like quite the pain in the ass for a windshield. I had my local safe lite guy put my window in without trim and plan to get some universal trim with the lip that is supposed to go under the window, trim that lip off and urethane it down around the outside, should produce the black trim, without the rust causing issues of the chrome. I'll be sure to update my build thread when i do it. Of course that time frame is indefinite
Sounds like quite the pain in the ass for a windshield. I had my local safe lite guy put my window in without trim and plan to get some universal trim with the lip that is supposed to go under the window, trim that lip off and urethane it down around the outside, should produce the black trim, without the rust causing issues of the chrome. I'll be sure to update my build thread when i do it. Of course that time frame is indefinite
PITA would be an understatement I actually called safelite this morning and the quote was $290 I explained my situation where removal wasn't necessary and the best the corporate number could do was $230 which excluded the "disposal fee." They transferred me to a local office but I had to leave a message. Waiting to hear back from them.
I called the local shop I bought my windshield from and they would install it for $130 if I can get the truck there; $200 if they come to me. My local shop doesn't use a foam dam though. I'm not sure how safelite installs it. I'm a PITA/anal as hell and would like a dam installed Hate the idea of having someone else install it considering what my last windshield looked like when I removed it.
I wasn't home when they did mine, my wife was. I got a guy who had never done an install on one of these. He cut the old one out and cleaned up, primed superficial rust and had my wife help him line it up. He did a really good, clean job and it was about 230 ,he cut out, installed, and took the old with him.
he left the clips for the molding with me. You need these for the cowl. Note that the trim actually hold the cowl down at the windshield side and the clips space the cowl up a bit. I have not yet decided how to attach that yet. I'm thinking cut the excess from the clips and 3m tape it down. I may even weld some tabs to the cowl and screw it down.
I wasn't home when they did mine, my wife was. I got a guy who had never done an install on one of these. He cut the old one out and cleaned up, primed superficial rust and had my wife help him line it up. He did a really good, clean job and it was about 230 ,he cut out, installed, and took the old with him.
he left the clips for the molding with me. You need these for the cowl. Note that the trim actually hold the cowl down at the windshield side and the clips space the cowl up a bit. I have not yet decided how to attach that yet. I'm thinking cut the excess from the clips and 3m tape it down. I may even weld some tabs to the cowl and screw it down.
Good to hear a positive review. It's always so mixed with Safelite so I wrote em off. The actual Safelite tech performing the install called me today and boy... world of difference compared to the corporate desk jockey's answering the phones. Claims he has installed windshields in this truck and is experienced with the trim. Despite the corporate line saying they WOULDN'T install the brand new PGW windshield I already purchased, the tech stated it wouldn't be a problem and quoted me $75-$100. Warm fuzzies so I scheduled him for Monday and I can't cross my fingers any further Appreciate the heads up on the clips too! I stumbled upon a great deal on OEM trim with the clips preinstalled. Fresh epoxy primer with new paint in the pinch welds so I'm going to risk the debris catchers.
I belive the clips are urethane in with the windshield so don't try and do them after. Some screw in at the bottom as well i think. I hope the install works out for you.
i think the post about selling was a cell phone thing. Under every thread is a recommended thread, If you scroll down to far and hit reply it will reply into the recommended thread rather than the one you were actually reading.
[QUOTE=Janos01;52277516]Nice Yota you have there. I have a 1990 4runner with a 3vz as well. Dont let the engine discourage you because its a 3vz. Its not a horrible engine and it does lag going up a slanted road or rap as mine does the same. But, the one thing I wish Toyota got their crap together on, was to correct the head gasket issues when they manufactured the engines. As to a lot of long term owners its a pain.[
felpro had some problems with there headgaskets but from what i hear from LCE they have that corrected
07-05-2017, 10:22 AM
Pulled on the wire through the grommet a bit because I knew there had to be a cut somewhere. The wire kept coming and I have no idea how it was cut within the grommet but it was...
It's honestly the much cheaper route without any unknowns/hassle. I'm going to try and find a smaller windshield but so far I'm not having any luck. For those looking for the gasket, I talked to my local Toyota shop when I was hunting for a windshield and they stated there is once again 1 more. Maybe they just say that as a selling point 
Hate the idea of having someone else install it considering what my last windshield looked like when I removed it.
crap together on, was to correct the head gasket issues when they manufactured the engines. As to a lot of long term owners its a pain.[
