de6w6it's 1988 4Runner Build-Up Thread "Flat Black Lemon"
#24
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Thread Starter
crazy small world, huh? what type of rig are you rockin?
i still need to do some aesthetic stuff, the front fenders and rear wheel wells are a mess. at least it is mechanically good now though.
#25
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: hendersonville, TN.
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this is great work. about the up and down braking thing. some times when you use soft springs you get reverse axle wrap under hard braking. speaking of that, you should build a nice anti-wrap bar for the back.
#26
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Thread Starter
Right now the back is fairly stiff, so the axle wrap isn't too bad. When I get some new longer springs in the future, a nice anti wrap bar is definitely a good idea.
Thanks for the compliment man, I appreciate it
#27
#28
Registered User
Thread Starter
Well, got my new rotors drilled and installed, along with new pads and clip hardware. Re-packed the bearings while I was in there. I also rotated the tires and put air in them, trying to cover everything to see if I can get this vibration thing taken care of. The rear drums had what looked like a dab of grease or something had gotten in the driver side, and the passenger side was adjusted way out. My parking brake froze on the other day, and it may have been stuck more on while driving than I thought, because it smelled. I cleaned everything up with brakleen real good and adjusted everything.
Big thanks to my father, we drilled the rotors ont the mill at his shop
Here is a pics of my ifs hub, sfa manual locking hub, lc rotor, and ifs caliper setup:
This shows how the caliper is mounted to the oustside of the ear on the knuckle, with a 9/16ths grade 8 fine thread through bolt, lock washer, and nut (and plenty of red loc-tite!):
So far no vibes!!!!!
Big thanks to my father, we drilled the rotors ont the mill at his shop
Here is a pics of my ifs hub, sfa manual locking hub, lc rotor, and ifs caliper setup:
This shows how the caliper is mounted to the oustside of the ear on the knuckle, with a 9/16ths grade 8 fine thread through bolt, lock washer, and nut (and plenty of red loc-tite!):
So far no vibes!!!!!
#29
Registered User
Thread Starter
I also re-did my exhaust. I got a new cat a while back from Downey, and used there adapter that goes from the flange on the cat to a 2 1/2" pipe. It is meant for before the cat, so I used the O2 block off plate (as my only O2 sensor is in front of the cat.). This allowed me to make a 2 1/2" cat back system. I originally did this:
I had used a 40 series flowmaster, which was very loud and extremely resonant. Much too much so for my new little guy's ears. So I got a Borla, moved the muffler back about 2 feet downstream, and fabbed this up:
Much quieter on the highway, and a ton less resonant. Worth the effort!
I had used a 40 series flowmaster, which was very loud and extremely resonant. Much too much so for my new little guy's ears. So I got a Borla, moved the muffler back about 2 feet downstream, and fabbed this up:
Much quieter on the highway, and a ton less resonant. Worth the effort!
#30
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iTrader: (5)
HOLY CRAPOLI! I'm impressed, and actually....I feel bad, I'd never seen this before! (DErrrrrrrrrrr, Mark, it's right at the bottom of every post he makes!)lol.
Anyway, WOW, I had no idea you were sucha fabbin fool! lol. Wish you were around, I'd pay you to swap mine out(if you wanted to, of course! hahaha)
That looks GREAT, man! See, what I was saying in answering you on my thread?....That's a bit high for me, ....but I'm NO WAY opposed to going SAS....just know that's it's NOT CHEAP, especially for someone who is not a welder by trade.....or even hobby.....OH HELL, I aint welded since Shop in HS! haha.
I'm really impressed, Dewit! BTW, ....Could you ask Abagail how to sew a chunk of leather on to mine, with some extra padding? I HATE that they're so low. I'm not short, ...6' or so, but my arms seem to not rest up enough.
That exhaust is sWEEEEEEEt, bro. I am really looking forward to my header, but I'm hoping that people like you will tell me exactly what to tell my exhaust guy(when I find one, lol). Also, I'm in Cali, so I'm pretty sure there has to be a pelosi or two,...eh chem, sorry, I meant, 'useless rule or two', haha.
Looking forward to some pics of this thing when you get it EXACTLY where you want it. .....cuz it's already nice!
Take care,
Mark
Anyway, WOW, I had no idea you were sucha fabbin fool! lol. Wish you were around, I'd pay you to swap mine out(if you wanted to, of course! hahaha)
That looks GREAT, man! See, what I was saying in answering you on my thread?....That's a bit high for me, ....but I'm NO WAY opposed to going SAS....just know that's it's NOT CHEAP, especially for someone who is not a welder by trade.....or even hobby.....OH HELL, I aint welded since Shop in HS! haha.
I'm really impressed, Dewit! BTW, ....Could you ask Abagail how to sew a chunk of leather on to mine, with some extra padding? I HATE that they're so low. I'm not short, ...6' or so, but my arms seem to not rest up enough.
That exhaust is sWEEEEEEEt, bro. I am really looking forward to my header, but I'm hoping that people like you will tell me exactly what to tell my exhaust guy(when I find one, lol). Also, I'm in Cali, so I'm pretty sure there has to be a pelosi or two,...eh chem, sorry, I meant, 'useless rule or two', haha.
Looking forward to some pics of this thing when you get it EXACTLY where you want it. .....cuz it's already nice!
Take care,
Mark
#32
Registered User
Thread Starter
thanks guys, as always, it is never done. i had some pinging noise that turned out to be a destroyed u joint in the rear shaft. i put some cheapo joints in, and they have the grease fitting in an in-accessible place. I also noticed that the t case flange nut had been un-staked, tightened, and re-staked. And since i also get vibes that i don't think should be there, and there is some slight up and down movement on the t case flange, i figured i would take care of it. i got, hopefully waiting for me when i get home today, a triple drilled flange from trail gear, 4 t case/diff flange nuts, and a heavy duty t case output flange seal from marlin. i also got some better u joints from napa (i know i should have just gotten them from marlin, o well, next time) with oem style grease fittings in the oem spot. the diff and t case flanges are onlyoff a degree or two from parralel, which is what you need for non-cv shaft, so i don't think it is that causing the vibes, and the angle of the whole shaft itself is only 25 degrees or so, which seems well within the u joints range of operation. So i am hopeful the new flange and nut and it being properly tightened will take care of it.
#36
Registered User
Thread Starter
hey man, how ya been? i will def give ya a holler if/when i need a hand
whatever day that was i saw you, i was like o man, sweet big toy, and then was like wait, thats brian! ha not too often i see someone i know drivin around here, since i didn't grow up around these parts, most everyone else i know is by work or by where i grew up.
whatever day that was i saw you, i was like o man, sweet big toy, and then was like wait, thats brian! ha not too often i see someone i know drivin around here, since i didn't grow up around these parts, most everyone else i know is by work or by where i grew up.
Last edited by de6w6it; 06-20-2010 at 06:45 PM.
#37
Registered User
Thread Starter
thanks man, yea, still waitin on the tcase output seal from marlin to show up, then it will be time to see if i can get rid of some vibes. i havent posted much progress because i have been focusing more on my mustang (switched to QQ plates, no more inspection and cheap insurance, but had to do some work gettin it ready for the show season ), since the runner is pretty well set until funds allow for the real rear suspension. but i will try and get some pics of the flange swap. how has the oil leak been treatin ya, i have to check back on your thread
#39
Registered User
Thread Starter
hello everyone, slight update time. I got my new t-case output seal in, with the new flange and nut. I put a little grey rtv around the outer lip of the seal and at the end of the splines of the output. There is a tiny hint of a weep, but it seems to have sealed itself. There is still up and down play on the output tcase flange, I am assuming the bearing is going bad.
On the upside, I am going Saturday morning to pick up a beautiful new tailgate complete with glass and regulator, as opposed to my rusted so bad the window basically fell out and broke so I made a flip up plexi hack that will be removed. And....drumroll....
I am picking up a top shift gear drive tcase for my future duals!! And I am helping a buddy part out an '85 on Sunday, and will be snagging that one too. They are both in better shape than mine, and will get the adapter, assemble them together, and then pull mine which is going bad and stick the whole new assembly in. I will then use a cv joint from a front shaft and have local driveline guy build a new rear shaft, shorter, with a cv. rotate rear axle and done.
Coming Soon!
On the upside, I am going Saturday morning to pick up a beautiful new tailgate complete with glass and regulator, as opposed to my rusted so bad the window basically fell out and broke so I made a flip up plexi hack that will be removed. And....drumroll....
I am picking up a top shift gear drive tcase for my future duals!! And I am helping a buddy part out an '85 on Sunday, and will be snagging that one too. They are both in better shape than mine, and will get the adapter, assemble them together, and then pull mine which is going bad and stick the whole new assembly in. I will then use a cv joint from a front shaft and have local driveline guy build a new rear shaft, shorter, with a cv. rotate rear axle and done.
Coming Soon!