Mistys is an 88 and I will be home tomorrow and get some pictures for you. I have been away from the house for quite awhile. I will get some pictures for the electric windows and locks on the red runner I have as well for you. My smart phone is having problems with taking videos. I can take them but am having problems up loading them to Photobucket.

Crap!!! I took my 2 inch body lift off at work sometime ago and never put the front bolts back in as I did not have them at the time. I now have them and need to get them in. On my 86, it is supposed to have a rubber bushing in between the frame and body. Here is what mine looks like minus the front bushing and bolt. Doh!!!

 

EDIT/REPOST.... (Want this on top)

HELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLP! Lol .....

I've run into yet another crazy problem that I've never heard anyone having.

1. When doing the full body swap, I had pretty seriously bent the bumper on the passenger side to the point that we had to pull the passenger fender and install a Frankenstein body lift in order to get the bumper to not hit the fender .

2. Before even realizing that ^^^^ we had my new bushings from Energy Suspension installed on top and ready to place the body down when we noticed the fender was going to hit the bumper. Even then I noticed that all 8 rear body mounts, aside from the front 2, laid down perfectly on each other, but that I had over a half an inch space on the 2 front body mounts.

3. As we installed the added factory TOYOTA body mount bushings all the way around to give me another inch or so of lift, the half inch - five eighths of an inch of space was obviously still there, so we installed 4 heavy-duty washers on each side.

4. But cannot for the life of me figure out why that space is there other than one possibility that seems to be the only thing to make sense of this. The body mount kits are all the same in size of bushings and diameter of goodies and so forth... But is it possible that on my 87, the front two body mounts on the frame and body were around half an inch to five eighths of an inch lower, yet on the 89 donor body, they are not lower on the body portion, leaving a half inch space. The only other thing I can think of is that all eight of the others are actually higher on the 87 frame.

5. I really need some people with 1st gen 4 runners to get some measurements for me as to how high the body mount pillar comes off of the frame on the frontmost to mounts and how level it is with the top of the frame on the rest of the mounts down the sides and in the back. I don't know what else to do but just reinstall some of the extra body bushings I have up front in place of the washers, but I would really like to know what the hell is going on and why it is not lining up like it is.

PLEASE HELP???

Here are some pictures explaining how Richards (redeth005 ) 89 forerunner bushings are all the same height on top and how my 89 body on 87 frame seem to be different on the very front ones or I guess all of the rear ones....





My set up up front ( the washers are only up front because it was the only place they were needed. Also, it's important to note that on all of my other ones the space between those two mounting spots is closer to 1-3/4" with the added bushings installed for a mock body lift. Also it may be closer to you 2. 25 inches on the front of mine )




This is all the OEM stuff I have left from both rigs after installing the ten large desk type washers that I used 4 the Mach body lift )...



I really need redeth005 or anyone with an 89 frame and chassis to take a measurement for me just to prove it's an optical illusion... But here is my frame body mount our upfront and Richards. I guess it could just be in my head but I would swear that his body mount tower coming off the frame is taller than mine......

Mine.....



Richards.... redeth005. ...

 

not sure how much help my pict will be chef front of my girl was whacked on the drivers side so only factory mount i have in front is the passenger side an pictures taken at 3;30am lol

 

Hey buddy..... I'm not sure but is that the very front body mount? I'm doing a video right now that is uploading to YouTube but I will post it right here as to one of the questions I have. I hope someone will see it and maybe help me rule this out. 😢 lol

 

Body mount issues after 89 body to 87 frame swap 1:

 

How do your fender and door gap look? Look for any buckles on the frame, behind the leaf mount. You may have tweaked the body when you lifted it. I'm guessing here. Set the frame on jack stands in you drive way or level surface and take a measurement from the ground to both front mounts. Putting the frame on something that is stationary and even will give you a close measurement rather then the rig sitting on its suspension, which may be slightly off anyhow.

 

right behind the bumper front body mount just mines the passenger side as my drivers got all rebuilt an ect

 

HEY BUBBA! Lol.... Thanks! Ok, it's definitely worth investigating, but I have serious doubts that the body was tweets in any way when removing it. The reason is because we pulled it using the roll bar and the canopy heavy duty portion where the shell mounts to the cab... You know, were those four bolts across go, just under that using wood for added weight distribution. Remember, I used a 10,000 pound forklift, and honestly it came up like butter and never was bouncing around.... All done in an attempt to try and make sure the weight was evenly distributed. But you are right, anything is possible. Believe it or not the entire cab is fairly light when it is stripped of every single thing...

Either something is tweaked (which doesn't visually appear to be the case with this silver body, as it was pretty much pristine and has never had any major body work), or maybe there is an actual variable from certain bodies to certain frames. I guess it would make more sense that all 10 body mounts are different in location on this frame from the 89. hahahaha

 

Wellll, what the heck. Not a really fire of action on here, but I'll skate what I found so far. ....

Body mount issues after 89 body on 87 frame swap:
1st; I measured full size not just the driver side and all the rear 8 are the same with the same 2 bushings and 1 washer, for a total of 1-7/8"...... Sooooooo....

--> I'm freakin stumped! Lol.... ALL 8 REAR mounts are 1-7/8" from 'Chassis Body mount base to Frame body mount base' with IDENTICAL BUSHINGS AND WASHERS between the shown measured space......... Front 2 Mounts are 2-1/8" space on same measurement(2/8" difference), but with 5/8" WORTH OF WASHERS! THAT'S 3/8" OF TOO MUCH GAP between front chassis body and frame body mounts that I can't account for! (Keep in mind, I have a perfect 1" body lift all the way around, accounting for 1" over the stock 7/8" ...EXCEPT for the front 2 mounts! ) @deputydave123 --> Anyone have some 3/8" body lift bushings laying around that they can spare 2 of?(1-1/4" tall, total) Hahahahaha..... At this point, if I don't see anything obvious when I go to pull the body lift, I'm just going to shave a spare OEM bushing down til I get it right, then call it "Suzy-Q the Silverbackenstein Body Mount Special Project"! Lol

 

Chef,
The frames and bodies are the same for all IFS 1st Gen years, only the 84-85 frames are different. The front mounts are indeed different.
Not much help.
Get a static measurement on the frame(on stands or blocks) and go from there. Unless, you have a bent frame or something pinched between the frame and front core-support appron area, its just tweaked sheet metal.

 

Yeah I'm going to check for anything in the way, but for all eight of the rear ones to line up perfectly and just lay down like "plop/done", and then have that space in front of both sides, I would think whatever it is that was causing it, if it was indeed something interfering, would be obvious. Pretty much the only things added up there are the spring hanger and bumper with frame reinforcement plate... Which have nothing to do with the chassis and in no way should create resistance, especially with a body lift in there. I'm just going to have to fill that gap with a shaved factory TOYOTA bushing on top of the new poly kit/ or just reinstall the Toyota bushings because they are much more comfortable and all of these are in great condition(no dramatic fraying or splintering or major crackage)...

As mentioned and obvious, I'm sure the poly bushings are not going to be as comfortable, but I suppose they would eliminate tiny bit of body roll. They also are probably a tiny bit taller just due to less fatigue, so I assume it would be around an eighth of an inch more clearance for my triple shifters..... -->

The triple shifters issue is another thing that I have to address really quick if I'm going to remove the Frankenstein body mount alterations/lift. :-( ... The problem is that the amount of cutting required is most definitely going to give me trouble in regards to keeping my console securely mounted in the front. I suppose I could clock it around a half an inch by using a threaded homemade bracket that could run across, but then the other problem will be how well I can seal up the floor from heat and so forth, especially with a gaping hole behind the RADesigns triple stick shifter hump boot...

THANK YOU RBX! I appreciate the answer and it just gave me some ality on the fact that I have to just deal with this and add shaved down extra bushing from the two; donor & demolished trucks. Very weird though, and I think it's very interesting that everytime I go to web sites regarding Energy Suspension or otherwise bushing kits, 86-88 come up as a separate application, and 89? Nothing! Other sites list them all.... 86-89... Bottom line? IT IS WHAT IT IS! lol... I'm too exhausted with weird gremlins and other crap and I have so much to do this truck still that I am done with this. I would leave the body lift but I really want to address center of gravity and keep it as long as possible, and one inch of body left, while it doesn't seem like much, when you are at 35 degrees and loaded down on 35 for the 4 inch lift... It flipping matters! Hahaha

 

On a separate matter, what I really found weird is that when I rolled, I hit harder on the right and then bounced on the roof( probably due to the 35 inch tire being up there on top of a 6 install roof rack) and then finally landed on my driver side..... At no time did my hood make contact with the dirt. The roof rack and front bumper kept the hood clear, and furthermore, the front bumper didn't make much contact at all except for on the corners... And with my frame plate reinforcement from addicted, and considering the bumper was only been in and down around 2 inches on the corner, and only on the passenger side, I really don't think that the role had anything to do with this gap....

The reason I say it doesn't have anything to do with it in my mind is because I would have to have hit the bumper dramatically hard on the top of the stinger in order to push down both body mounts as the frame was bent downward exactly evenly? I'm just shooting the crap with you because, well I have to just do something to deal with it, I'm really curious what the hell is wrong? Lol. I'm going to look more carefully and make sure nothing is in the way... I can imagine what it is, pretty much everything is clear and with all the other eight lining up, it just doesn't seem likely as the transmission and motor are pretty much the only thing that could get in the way from the frontmost - rear8 bushings point Forward.

What's really weird to me is that I have to look at simply the space between the cups and the chassis up front. In reality, the space is only a quarter inch difference, and yet I have five eighths worth of bushings in there! How in the hell is that possible unless the two front bushings are not quite as tall as the rest?

 

I believe the body mounts are seperated by those years, because the companies are too lazy to list 4runner applications and trucks seperately, and as you know trucks change one year earlier then the 4Runners.

About your body mount issue...
If the frame is indeed bent/tweaked, you should have a serious steering issue since your leafs are directly under it. This would be something you would notice(I hope...hahah).

Secondly, If its not the frame, then the sheet metal is tweaked. Your truck is a full frame vehicle, it is not a uni-body, which means it needs the frame to support ALL 8 body mounts. It is entirely possible the front end moved/sagged/twisted when you lifted it.
I would closely inspect all your door, panel & hood gaps for more clues.

My opinion, shaving a body mount to fit is like ignoring the problem. Something isn't right, from what you are saying. You mentioned you bent the bumper? I know you had a tie-rod end issue with ruby. Is i possible you bent the frame?

 

I will definitely check all those unions. But one question, & I am in no way being a smart ass because obviously I'm lost here! Lol. If I had front end sag on the chassis as I lifted it... Let's say I forgot both body mounts on the front and tried to lift it and it just mildly pulled the front clip down... Wouldn't that most definitely make for the opposite effect, ie, wouldn't the chassis body mounts be too close to the frame mounts?

That leaves me thinking that it's possible the frame is bent, yet I really don't know how. The steering issue with the rod links and tie rod ends happened after hitting a dip really hard on a trail. Not so hard that it would break something, but hard enough that it blew out both of my tie rod ends which was actually the problem. The rod was fine and once I replaced the tie rod ends it came back to normal adjusting spaces on both sides and steered straight as an arrow.

As a matter of fact, after the roll, I drove it home and it drove straight as an arrow and gave me no issues on steering.

Also, it's very difficult for me to get it up off the ground on level ground anywhere near my house except for in the garage, inside. The problem therein is, that when I I am in the garage, it's hard to jacket up I enough without being backed in which makes it really difficult to get a jack under the rear and then get it up high enough to get stands under the frame.... But I will give it a shot. I will likely have to remove the shell

 

I can't imagine you bent the frame, but it is possible. This will need to be measure, no way around it so that you can figure out where the problem exists. Tolerance for a Toyota should be around 3-6mm. Even up to 10mm I would say is acceptable.

 

Also, it's very difficult for me to get it up off the ground on level ground anywhere near my house except for in the garage, inside. The problem therein is, that when I I am in the garage, it's hard to jacket up I enough without being backed in which makes it really difficult to get a jack under the rear and then get it up high enough to get stands under the frame.... But I will give it a shot. I will likely have to remove the shell

 

Also, regarding what I said... If you notice in the video from flip a gram, the difference up front from mount to mount is pretty much exactly one quarter inch... And yet with the same bushings in there, why would I need three eighths inch more to fill in the hole with five eighths inch worth of washers?

And, wouldn't a quarter inch be around 10 millimeters?

 

Mark,
You may be able to hang some a 4' level or some other straight edge off some known good points to locate the front.

And about the question on the sagging front, it would be near impossible to pull/sag/tweak the front end evenly. Even when I use a frame machine and try to evenly pull, you can't its just too large an area.

Not the best frame diagram, but this should help get you close

 

I cannot see the font, I can barely see the diagram but I definitely cannot read the numbers. Thank you so much for sharing that though! Maybe I can darken it if I save it.

 

Ok so I can see most of them pretty well. One problem I have is that I'm so tall I don't have jack stands that will handle the height even with the tires off. I would need several pairs to hold up the axles off the ground/ front and rear points on the frame on each side , and taller jacks to handle the height difference in my rig.

I suppose I could still measure fairly close and start seeing if there's any anomalies if I can just get the frame level and account for the difference in height by adding it to the ratio and then adjusting all the way down?