what'd i say?

did i done good.......make me a cookie and send it to me.

 

BBinafew!

 

HAHAHAHA, A cookie? Hmmmm, you must LOVE cookies! Most people ask for a Cheesecake or something! lol.

I'm heading down the Yota, .....see if I can't add some input to help diagnose where it was/is now, etc.

Also, that yard with the AFM, ...closed at 12pst, ...so Monday is the earliest. GRRRRRRRR, lol.

THANKS, Jerry, ...I'll check back in and hopefully I'll have FIGURED SOMETHINGGGGGGGGG OUT, EH? lol.

 

Ok, well, ..........AHHHHHHHHH, lol. My guy at the dealer said, "our homie swapped to a 5.0 Mustang motor, ....so no more AFM to use. I tried all three of these(he had some laying around), but they're not right, and the closest one is for a V6, and IT WILL NOT work, so your best bet is to take it home, buy that AFM from the yard on Tuesday(GOD BLESS THE VET'S, MONDAY IS ALL THEIRS!), replace it, and see if that intermittent nightmare goes away....If so, then bring it back and I'll adjust it for free(he didn't charge me for diagnosis so far..and he's tried quite a bit already). If it does NOT work, then we've got a weird problem on our hands. But, we can't time it right or fully diagnose it with this meter having issues like it is. Call me Tuesday and we'll go from there, ok?"...........

So there I am, ....and I'll see where I'm at on Tuesday.

Thanks, Jerry, and whomever else chimes in till then. PLEASE, any thoughts, at all, share them, ...I'll give it a check, what can it hurt, right?

 

I don't and an RE but, I will try to help. Have you tried cleaning the afm at all? How about pulling the wire out? To narrow out the TPS, you "should" be able to pull the wire of of it and see if the idle smooths out. Do this when it is hiccuping. I also wondering if this is not timing related based on engine temperature. When the motor is doing this try jumping the timing connector and see what happens.

 

Thanks, XXXtreme.

I did try cleaning the AFM before the rebuild, ....didn't seem to do much(now, I'm assuming you mean cleaning the inside and the cone module that sticks down, not cleaning under the plastic top, where the electronics are...right? I used AFM cleaner on it and followed the instructions...but I don't think I damaged it, ...it still performed CRAPPY at the same times as b4 doing the cleaning, lol). The strange thing is, ....before I replaced the O2(first to a Bosch, then I switched to a Denso from the Dealer), it used to run like crap cold, then smooth out during initial open loop.....then back to crap. Then, after the first O2, it just didn't run right(bosch), ...then, after the Denso, it is where it's at now, and b4 the build........."Purrs cold, then after a minute, CRAP, then a couple minutes later, Purrs again". However, when I kill the motor for a lil bit, even though it's still technically 'fully warm', it acts like crap when just starting it up, until I drive down the road for a minute.

Also, when it's hiccuping, right when it starts doing it, ....If i drive off down the road, it will bog out, just like before, then at around 2500-3000rpms, BAT OUT'A'HELL, SMOOTH as ice with no missing, until 2nd gear, then same thing until 2500-3000 again.....then third, it's FINE.

It's really getting to me, X', .....and I don't wanna be one of those guys that just starts putting in all new AFM, TPS, IACV, COIL, SECONDARY, IGNITOR.....etc., but if SOMEONE, in some shop, or maybe on here if I'm lucky, can't figure this out....not sure what else to do, ya know? The guy before me had put RTV in the AFM adjustment screw hole, ....a piece is cracked off at the top, but no fractures down from there, .....and the Toyota Dealership guy I know said, "NEVER seen that done...why would he do that? Hmmmmm". Plus, he's saying that the AFM is more likely the suspect than TPS because it's doing it so intermittently and at such low temperatures....He said the TPS usually starts to go out and effects the performance more at higher temps......Mine seems to be fine once it warms up.....grrrrrrrr. lol.

I'm not sure what you mean, regarding the 'pulling the wire'.....to what, the TPS or AFM? What wire? lol....Sorry, I'm just still learning, forgive me. And, sorry for going on so, but I figure more detail might help someone help me, ya know?

PS> Just like before the build....it feels as if I'm missing some power that IT WANTS to give, ....it's just not getting the right mixture/spark/whatever!

 

"Timing Connector"??? You mean in the lil box by the fuse box behind the battery? The one I jump to set the timing? The guy at Toyota said it's also hard to time it properly if the motor is not reading Air temp properly...... ?

 

By wire I mean the electrical connectors for them.

Yes the same one you would use to time the engine.

Did you say you changed the coolant temp sensor? the one for the ECU not the one for the gauge right?

Also do you have a timing light?

If so get a reading on the timing when it is running smooth and when it's not. If it's the same then you can rule out anything sensors that change your timing.

Have you looked into the knock sensor at all?

Jst so I have this straight, it runs like crap when cold but good when warm?

 

Ok, ....

Yes, I changed the coolant temp sensor, before the build. I got it at Napa, .....bad idea?

By 'pull the wires' to 'them' you mean disconnect the wiring to the AFM while it's running?

Another thing I should add, .....I've had a problem with the temperature gauge for YEARS, ....it works sometimes, sometimes doesn't. But, that's the gauge, ....what controls the gauge, the wire into the top of the thermostat? Or is it somewhere else? I'd like to fix that, ASAP.

 

Ok, simple as possible, sorry for rambling. ...........

First start up, cold; PURRS

After one minute or so(give or take); CRAP, wants to stall, idle drops

After a couple MORE minutes, fully warm(or if I drive it out of this hiccup) PURRS again

And only thing I did to check the Knock sensor was bang on the block....this was before the build, and when I did that, the timing didn't visibly jump that I could see. Not sure how to test that.

 

PS> Yep, I have a timing light.

 

yes I mean disconnect them when the engine is erratic.

yes there is a temperature sensor for the gauge itself. Should be pretty cheap at autozone.

The more expensive one should be the one you had already changed out.

Do you know for a fact your Check engine light works? You have no codes right?

 

"If so get a reading on the timing when it is running smooth and when it's not. If it's the same then you can rule out anything sensors that change your timing." /xxxtreme....

Ok, I'll do that first thing in the morning. Something odd I just noticed, as well. When opening the radiator cap, I noticed that the coolant is to the CAP. But the Overflow is almost empty, as if it sucked it back into the radiator but didn't push it back into the overflow.....and the Radiator, Water Pump, Thermostat, ..all new.

 

does this only do it when driving or at idle too?

 

Yes, engine light works, and NO codes. First thing that smog center and dealership checked.

As far as the 'more expensive' one I changed, ....you're referring to the coolant temp sensor next to the CSI time switch, right? That was about 40$ at napa. The temperature gauge sensor, ...know where that is? It's the one that goes in the top of the thermostat housing?

 

"does it do it only driving or at idle too?"....

It does it whether I'm sitting there at idle or not. And, when I drive off while it's doing it, it bogs, barely wants to go, then at 2500rpms or so, GOES LIKE MAD, smooth. then, lower rpm as starting out in next gear, 2nd, does the same thing until reaching 2500 or so again.

 

I think so remember I don't have the RE mines carbed, but I also have two of those sensors, I replaced my gauge one as that never worked when I got the turck as well, and when I did my rebuild I was gonna replace the other one and wasn't about to spend $40+ on a sensor that may or may not have been bad to begine with. haha. Good thing too as I don't need no stinkin emssions stuff now that I got my Weber. lol

and yeah that sounds about right for the price on the ecu coolant sensor.

 

So, I want to check my timing from COLD as ice(start up in the morn), and watch it to see if it jumps dramatically when going into that erratic behavior, right?

 

Also, where is the one you DID replace, ...in the thermostat housing? The one for the gauge I mean?

 

So the To Do list is this, with the engine stumbling in this order:

1a) get a reading on the timing when engine is acting up

1b) jump the timing connector and see if it smooths out if not remove jumper and proceed to step 2. If it does then we definitely know it is timing related and not fuel.

2) pull AFM connector ( I am thinking it won't stay running with this disconnected ) but if it does and it smooths out then your problem is the AFM, if it doesn't change and it either stays running (barely) replace connector and procede to step 3

3) pull TPS connector (Idle usually gets lower especially if it is causing a high idle or an erratic up and down idle from being bad but should stay running with this disconnected) If problem stops then it's the TPS if not we will go from there.

4) your engine has probably warmed up already and stopped acting funny so take another reading on the timing