ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Jerry,

Sorry for rambling....just trying to leave as many details as possible for someone who might be able to help. Ok, so.......

1. Yes, I have spark(I only switched the plugs b2ween 2&3 to see if it was the plug,....no luck...plugs are all good)

2. Had all 5 injectors serviced, including the CSI, at RC Injectors(all new o-rings, grommets, bench tested, "Excellent x5" conclusion).

3. When firing it up the first time? VAVROOM, first CLICK of the key, ...doesn't even take a single first turn of the starter/flywheel.

4. Full spark in all 4 Cyl......Wires are good-including number 2wire.....Within 10 seconds of running, 1-3-4 cylinder are GETTING HOT, FAST.....2 is cold...

Thus, FUEL! However, as you can see....I think it's related to electronics in some way.

BY THE WAY; I walked in these injectors, and picked them up by hand. They were NOT MAILED, so that's also out of the variables.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Forgive this question, if it appears ignorant, hahaa.......

If I had the firing order wrong, initially, was trying to start it, it wouldn't start.......Would the ECU possibly shut down an injector pulse, completely? I've heard this can happen....and if it did, should I disconnect the EFI or ECU fuse, wait whatever minutes, then try again? ....Or am I dreamin? lol.

92 TOY

OK...so i think i arrived at the same conclusion as you then...a fuel delivery issue to that cylinder since you have spark.

and i was just searching for something and by accident, arrived at the NOID light you spoke of...that was my next idea for you.

92 TOY

thats another of those ''what could it really hurt" kinda things.....i would say
disconnect the battery and see what happens.

i wish i was helpful but i'm really just grasping straws here for ya

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

NO WAY you should be sorry, ....heck, I GOT AN ANSWER! lol.....

Actually, I'm not sure if this noid kit will work, ...it's all GM, Ford and GEO, with one Bosch unit in it, ....which actually says, "GM" in tiny letters below that. Now, I'M NOT AN EFI SPECIALIST, ...sooooooo, I'm not sure what GM levels read, or if it would be comparable. So even if I CAN get that wire disconnected from the injector, and it DOES NOT light....how can I KNOW that I'm getting a proper reading?

A friend was trying to tell me what to do, regarding testing the ECU to see if it's giving pulse, but like I said, "sounded like blah blah gagagoogoo TO ME" LOL.

92 TOY

as i recall, there's not too much in the way of wires hooking to the injector, so i would THINK you should be able to tell if the is a current going to that injector with taking the upper manifold off........i don;t even own a volt-meter so i totally don't know how this works but i imagine it could sniff electricity thru some skimpy insulation.....what about switching injectors?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Well, I'm assuming 'switching' injectors would involve pulling the upper intake. ....no? I guess I could do that in a couple hours, tomorrow, marking it all off again...but if it's ECU related, I would have done that for nothing, know what I mean? My buddy who threw me for a loop with his electronics expertise, ....he told me, "You can use a multi-meter on the injector wire that connects to the injector....you just have to watch it to see if it's pulsing, then check the one side to power, and then the other(the constant feed) to ground...this should make the injector 'click', and you'd hear it by just turning the key over with the coil wire off." I'm not sure which side is which, so I'm reading up in the Haynes, ....and it's REALLY like GREEK to me, .....and no, I don't speak Greek...lol.

92 TOY

ok...keep reading

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

OH, btw, Jerry, ......#2 is, from what I've heard, one of the if not THE MOST difficult to disconnect from the injector, while the upper intake is still on. Trust me, IT'S A PITA! I've managed to do some TRICKY things on here, from what I've heard, for a beginner, ....things that some people doing this for a while hadn't thought of...but from looking at this, from every angle,....I just can't see how to get a tool on the end of that retaining clip holding on the wiring to the injector!!!!!! If I COULD<>then I could try and test the wire.

92 TOY

NFC again man....NFC.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I think I just need a fine tip tool, hmmmmmmm, maybe that could slip under the shorter sides of the connector, prying the retaining clip off......Hmmmmmm

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I'll give that a try, Jerry, about 6am PST, and as soon as I know something more, I'll fill you and everyone in. Hopefully, a couple people who visit this site, who have experience with electronics and such might chime in by then. Not sure, ...just feels lonely here! lol, hahaha.

"Many a failure gave up before they realized how close to success they actually were." ...Thomas Edison

92 TOY

keep us posted

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Really quick, before I go......

I know this is probably not related....but if you remember....Before I started all this, I was having a particular problem. When going into open loop, it would WANNA DIE, ...then a minute later, 'VOILA', presto chango, PERFECTION AGAIN! I NEVER figured out what that issue was....but this is DEFINITELY different in that....well, .....it's staring out poorly, cold, and continuing to run poorly, with #2 pipe cold as ice!

Mojave_Moze

Well, that is definitely an odd problem. 22re motors are notorious for being bomb proof and ultra-reliable, so Its really strange hearing about the issues you've been having! As for technical assistance, I can't help much but suggest maybe a fuel line issue, If I remember right, you said something earlier about a small fuel leak?

If nothing else, then I give you: SUPPORTIVE WORDS!!! You definitely have more patience and virtue than many many people I know! I continue to wish you the best of luck! Also, if it makes you feel any better, tearing every bit of carpeting, insulation, and adhesive out of my runner is quite time consuming and as you say, a PITA! LOL. Keep at it man!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Thanks, Moze!

Well, the leak was just 2 things I neglected to replace. CSI banjo's and Damper Banjo's.....Replaced them, fuel leak solved. I'm just baffled, ....BUT JUST FOR NOW! I've been yelling at the ceiling a few times, Moze, trust me, ....lol........but I really have learned that 'freaking out' is useless, and it makes me feel HORRIBLE to even entertain the words "I QUIT" for even a second! lol. I figure, ...this thing was designed by people, and whether it's a computer problem, wiring problem, technician problem( like if they gave me back an inoperable injector), IT CAN be figured out. But, to be honest, I just want guidance as to where to start, and of course, I DON'T WANT TO TEAR THIS THING DOWN AGAIN! hahaha.

I'ma take a fresh look at it tomorrow, and hopefully, some people will chime in with their expertise. Otherwise, at some point, I'll have to pay Toyota 70$ to diagnose it, at least, ya know? I would NEVER do that unless I had to, but I'm really pushing it on the time spent on this, at this point. I can tell, Moze, ...as soon as that cylinder get's fuel, it's gonna be a LOT more responsive, and it wants to purrrrrrrrrrr, it's just not able to without go-go juice to one of the holes, ya know?

Spread the word, ...."CHEF NEEDS MINDS COOKIN ON THIS!" .......sorry, couldn't resist.

yotarob2005

Chef, sorry I have been out for awhile. Sorry to hear you are having problems. You should be able to use the Bosch noid light. I had the same problem & had to peel back part of the wiring harness & put a little soilder on the wire splices. They are famous for breaking at the splices. Also be sure that the connector to the injector is still good, mine where very loose & the 2 actual terminals where trying to push out the back of the plastic piece when I was plugging them in. Let me find you a link.

yotarob2005

https://www.yotatech.com/f191/maltes...thread-178743/

Check post #189.

92 TOY

Rob...189 is not anything pertinent

92 TOY

just found it, it's 195