ccraviotto

I plan on using the stock arm. I am just going to build off of it to make it the desired length. At some point I would like to make a new set of arms.Your knowledge on the bushing set up is a good thing to know.Thanks

ccraviotto

I was wondering if it was fie-sable for you to build an ext. to specs. I know i would be way ahead on time if i had you make them and I will keep it in mind. would there be a cadd drafting fee for an + 4.652''extension bracket that is your specifications ? At this point I am having fun cutting and welding on stuff that I can send to the recycle if it doesn't turn out. Thanks .

BlazeN8

For me to stray away from anything different than the standard Blazeland UCA Extension Bracket would require a revision of the cadd file and some converting and coordination with the laser cutter outfit that I do business with. I am confident in the modifications you specify will achieve a favorable performance outcome but it would be a "One-Off" creation and I doubt it would be a sell-able item. The +5 UCA Extension Bracket also means a redisign on the LCAs and Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeves. I think a +5 width isn't realistic for streetability for most people. Also the +5 width means custom CV axles. I concede your creation outperforms the standard Blazeland design in many ways but in terms of cost effectiveness and simplicity it may not be viable for the average joe.

I think building a completely new UCA is the way to go for your situation and it will open many options for shock upgrades and strenght improvements. Consider building a coil over conversion or coil over assist to take the load off the UCAs. A +5 UCA Extension Bracket bolted to a stock arm (especially when using T-bars) may even be pushing the limit? At some point the fulcrum arm gets too long, and without beefing it up, it will break.

drew02a

I had a crazy idea to install the 4" DB lift bracket further forward to stretch the wheelbase a little and greatly improve approach angle from stock IFS. Might be worth doing if you're doing all this custom fab for center mount already.

It would require a different extension bracket though to move the top of the spindle forward. Also, some custom shock mounts, but that's to be expected.

I have a DB lift on the way and might mess around with the concept some

ccraviotto

I am working on a very similar idea. I like to run 37 inch tires with extra caster to help with street characteristics. At first i was moving the top ball joint back for the added caster.The draw back was that i was pushing the tire back into the fire wall. I started thinking I could build a lower a arm that would move the lower ball joint forward and see if blazeland could build me a longer extension bracket with standard ball joint placement but the cad fees took the price up to 370 dollars. Back to the drawing table. I am going to build a lower a arm that places the ball joint 2 inches forward and a top a arm that is 1.5 inches forward. You may need to move steering forward.That is done daily on straight axle trucks prity straight forward.I have a lot of ideas for my ifs trucks I would like to hear more of yours and others.

eric924run

any updates. the silence is killing me. watching you guy build is the only thing keeping me going. Blazeland what was the final specs and cost for a customer to go brracket lift, uca, lca and axles from you.

ccraviotto

i am geting ready for a 3 day wheeling trip in the tillamook forest, bent up a rack for my spare and coolers. i have ben driving the ifs truck almost every day and have some plans for some changes.will post soon.[IMG][/IMG]

BlazeN8

You would want to buy the Long Arm Kit at $999. I do not sell bracket lift kits, Shocks, TBs, or CV axles. Those items are widely available through other suppliers. I would just be a middleman if I were to sell them.

BlazeN8

Running up to a 37" tire with a drop bracket kit and Blazeland Long Arms is feasable in the present form. To go with something larger then moving the whole assembly forward like your proposing makes sense. If your going to modify a stock LCA perhaps lenghtening the rear leg longer will angle the spindle forward. You will have to do some trigonometry and geometry to calculate the lengths and angles. I can redraw the UCA extension bracket to move the upper forward as desired or you can build your own completly new UCAs. Like Cravottio said, steering linkage needs to be addressed but is possible. I can help out if you privide me the specs. I enjoy doing this kind of R&D but unfortunatly I need to make it worth my time. I am not in a position to volunteer my time for free. And when it comes to having my prototype designs laser cut my vender is booked up and charges a premium. I am small potatos to him, especially now that he has military contracts and large volume customers. I would invest in a small CNC plasma cutter if I had the funds and space but I don't.

drew02a

Would you be able to pass the modified CAD drawings along to my fabricator down here?

I can sign a non-compete, non-disclosure or whatever if you're worried about someone else manufacturing them

BlazeN8

The more I think about this the more I am not wanting to get involved in modifieing the Blazeland UCA Extension Brackets in this way. Five inches extended out, forward two inches,and drop it down x inches is asking to much for the factory arms and for the Bracket Design. These kind of modifications require completly new arms. There are so many other issues to consider as well to get the geometry right.

drew02a

Probably a good idea, lol

ccraviotto

I started making a spare cv axle for my center diff build 4 runner so i thought it would be cool to takes some pics and share.Cut the shaft in two with a cut off wheel. Than start building up the axle using 120 wall dom tubing.The axle Is a approximately 1.25 outside diameter.so my first piece is 1.50 out side diameter.also I leave it long so me end weld is on the inside of tubing.I put 3 plug welds to help ,[IMG][/IMG]

ccraviotto

My next step is to slide a piece of 1.75 120 wall dom over the 1.50.if you look at the pic you can see that the 1.50 is welded to the end of the axle.The tubing fits tight so it must be clean of slag and grind the plugs smooth.[IMG][/IMG]

ccraviotto

I drill for my plug weld with my second sleeve in place drilling through both.I use a larger hole for my plug than this.[IMG][/IMG].

ccraviotto

More of the same. when i add the second sleeve I make it longer than the first so when i weld it the weld connects with the axle first sleeve and outer sleeve. To sum it up when i am done welding there are four welds all the way around the axle and 3 plug welds holding sleeve to axle. I hope the heat don'tkill the axle??[IMG][/IMG]

ccraviotto

This is what it looks like with both sleeves burned into place[IMG][/IMG]

ccraviotto

Now its just like building a drive line. my final extension tube is 2 inch 120 wall dom tubing.I am debating on welding the ends or welding ends and pug welding. Any thoughts?[IMG][/IMG]

Numbchux

Very cool!


Any reason that you're bumping up to that much larger diameter for your actual extension tube? Seems to me that the added complexity of the 2 sleeves would just create more failure points, but I'm definitely a rank amateur at that kind of fab work....

ccraviotto

Thanks.My buddy builds a lot of cages using 120 wall DOM, all those pieces are from the scrap pile I get for free. I felt that any thing smaller than two inch 120 wall would not be strong enough. I see your point on more failing points. I would like to try and sleeve a set using 1.75 250 wall DOM but not ready to fork out cash at this point. my sleeved axes are starting to earn some respect from our group but still a lot of speculation.