B4Runner

Vance, hold up. Lol. I'll work on the pix as soon as I get the cargo area carpet out. It's blazing here and I had to come in for some cool air. My work has great shade through the morning and again in the evening, but there is no shade from about 11-3.

MC, I definately want to have lockable doors, so i guess I'll play it safe with the 1/8". And you said you were planning on spraying your bedliner? I think I'm going to roll it. Looks easier and little more efficient to me.

And to anyone, can I please get suggestions on how to remove the layers of tar from under the carpet. I tried using a chissel, but man thats going to take forever and also started chipping the metal some. I read now read that WD40 or PB Blaster can help. I'm going to give it a try. But please let me know how you have done it. I'd greatly appreciate it.

B4Runner

These were given to me last year. Never put them on though because it was just too muddy. Finally got them on the other day.


Here is my fix to the problem I created. Just cut the closer tube out of the way, and used the further back one to bypass the heater lines. Now I just gotta remove them.


And finally, the carpet removal. I had a nice interior.



Can anyone please help me out with this mess?





Got the rear panels out. Might mock up a panel with some spare plywood; make a cheap stensil that I know fits to use on the diamond plate.


I'll get some more pixs up. Still haven't touched the cargo area carpet. Expectedly, I couldn't find any WD40 or PB in the workshop, so I tried acetone for the tar. Didn't work. Advice please? Thanks!

Mountain Cop

Heat+air chisel?

Try painting over it?

Your interior plastic panels should make a good stencil. Just glue/tape/staple them together and trace it on cardboard (I traced them straight to the sheet of metal, and it worked fine.) measure twice, cut once.

B4Runner

All the heat I have is a hair dryer, no industrial heat blower. Lol. I hope hair dryer works. If not, I'm looking at a lot of sweat and energy tomorrow to get the crap off. I would have left it, but theres just too many carpet fibers stuck to it. Plus, I didn't think it would make for good bonding when its time for the bed-liner.
For the tracing, I'd love to use cardboard instead of plywood as my tester, but I just took all our huge boxes to the dump on our last trash run. Haha, but for my sanity, I have to have a tester before cutting the real deal.
MC, I don't know if your problems were directly related to wire harness, but do you by chance know exact wire in that harness is the hot for the fuel pump? I guess I'll just have to jump and test.

Mountain Cop

Good memory! I don't remember what color the hot was. There is a multi plug near the rear seat. It unplugs completely. If you are trying to remove your fuel pump or disable it, that would be the easiest way.

B4Runner

Yeah, I found the plug. And it made me feel a little closer to success when I unplugged it and the truck sputtered, then died. Now I'm down to 5 wires or so. Just gotta figure out which is the hot so I can do some wiring work behing the ECU or further up. Just to make it really inconvenient. A few members encouraged me to do this so that there is less of a chance of my truck being hot-wired and stolen while running topless in the summer. It does tend to nerve-racking to leave her alone and unattended in Fresno.

I decided I'm doing to go with black, 1/8" diamond plate. Thickness to support the locking doors and black because I think it will look more slick and appealing and will match the bedliner.

I saw a YT member who removed ashtray and fabbed up a piece of scrap metal to take place on the surface where he placed 3 or 4 light switches. I'd do that, but I wouldn't have patience or ability to make the piece. So, I think I'm going to remove my cruise control switch, find a blank pop-in tab for models that weren't so equipped, and place some switches there.

This kind of ties into the last idea, but it has its own. For the light switches up front, I think I'll have three. One for my KC's, one for my aux. reverse lights, and one for the new light or two I plan to add for use in the cargo area, top on or off. There will be two switches on the left rear panel. One for the inside lights, one for aux. reverse lights. I'm going to move the rear window switch up to the wiper cover; it will drive me crazy to have an extra switch in the panel that does nothing when the top is off.

Originally, I wanted to use as many stock switches as possible, such as the rear window switch I used in back; wanted to keep a stockish feel to my work. But now, I'm getting more used to the riggish feel of things, and will be using plain toggle switches that light up when in use.

Yeah, I'm crazy.

RickFoot

I have heard that dry ice will loosen up the sound deadening tar pretty easily. Try and google it. A lot of race car guys will remove it to lose some extra pounds. I have had luck with a wire wheel before in an old 85 corolla. After I had got it all out I threw it in a giant trash bag and it must have weighed like 30 pounds!

Oh! And be careful with the chisel method. If you get too careless you can easily put a hole right through the floorboard

malteserunner

iTrader: (1)

I like this switch panel... https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...s-pics-191036/

Z's Confederate Toy

I drove my truck around for a couple of hours on a hot day before I took the tar off of my floor boards.

B4Runner

Oh yeah, I remeber that thread. I love the way those turned out. Thats just a little too much work for me to do for a simple switch panel. I've also come to like those switches less and less.

My dad and I are making a run to some junk yards this weekend. I'm looking for the 2 doors with manual everything, Chevy horns (I'm a bit bummed by the meep meep), the tab for where the cruise control is, the whole Chevy mirror set up, a windsheild wiper, and the right side windsheild trim piece (mine fell off). And, my dad needs to grab a cat for the Chevy.

Hey guys, anyone have a preference in junk yards down in Fresno? I checked out the one off Ashlan on the 99, but it was pretty picked over when it came to Yotas. All they had were 2 2nd gen trucks that were pretty torn apart, and that was it.

B4Runner

How did that work for you? Was it easy? Or did it still give trouble? The only easy way I've been able to gather up is freezing the crap out of it with dry ice. But I think that would still present a bit of trouble with these trucks since there are all the rivets in the floorboard.

Mountain Cop

I've only tried the one at Jensen/99 in Fresno. It is scarce for 'yota stuff.

You might call the place near Chowchilla on 99. In the past, I have found some hard-to-find stuff there.

If you have the ability to grab a good Taurus (out of a 3.4 iirc) radiator fan assembly, I'll pay you back for it. PM if you'd like. I'm going to be AWOL for the next week on training, so I can't go get one myself.

Happy hunting!

Z's Confederate Toy

It worked pretty well. The tar came off in sheets. There is still a little residual that I have to chip off with a hammer and screwdriver. All I had to do was pry up the edge and pull on it. Give it a try, it might work a little better than freezing it.

B4Runner

Maybe it was the one on Jensen. I don't remember exactly, I just know it wasn't too far down the 99.

There are a few others down there, I just have to look them up again.

PM sent.

Sweet. I hope so. Its blazing hot here, yet it still nice and tight to the floor board. I'll definately try it after driving for a while tho. I hope it works. The crap is really starting to piss me off.

B4Runner

I think it's the damn heat that has been giving me this pessimistic feeling and outlook on my truck lately. It's always either to hot to be outside for more than a minute, or, by the time it's cool enough to bear the heat, its too dark, and then gets too cold not long after that. So I look at my truck, and feel like it's lost hope because I'm just watching it sit there while I'm too lazy to go out and work on it.

Anyways, I started a new project last night by stopping by Kragen and buying two switches. I needed three, but they didn't have the last one, so I'll be picking it up on my way home from work tonight. The three switches are going to go to the right of the clutch canceling button. One will be for my KC's, one will be for my aux. reverse lights, and I'll figure out a function for the third soon enough.

Travis, these two are for you. This is where and how my shell sits. And piled on top of it is most of the crap I've taken out of my truck.



This is where I've been working on my truck as of late. It is soon to be a huge garage for a boat, 64 Vette, 46 Chevy, 87 M6, and a shop with the left over space.


Here are some pictures that make my truck feel hopeless due to the heat not allowing me to work.





Here is the new project I've started. (Oh, I think that third switch might be for the interior display lights. I've had the lower trim piece out, and with it, I disconnected the dimmer, so there's just no light at all. And I'm not going to lie, it's pretty sweet being completely dark in there without all the lights. And then I'd have the switch there so I could just flip it on real quick when I need to check the gauges.)




The typical cracked Toyota dash. (No where near as bad as in the Corolla.)


I've still been thinking of where to put the in-line fuel pump switch. Under the dash is a little tricky. But, I've come up with two more ideas. The first might be a little easier with the amount of space I'll have to fit the switch. But the first idea is to put the switch somewhere on the little metal bar under the driver seat. Of both ideas, this one is a little harder to access, but also more hidden. The second place would be the right side plastic trim of the driver seat. It's much easier to access and much less hidden too. But if a car theft hops in the truck, he is never going to see that, less know what it's for. Although, right now while typing, I just realized that a companion car theft on the passenger side could see it. I guess its under the seat then. (I also decided I'm going to put my carpet back in, so wires can be a little more concealed under the carpet now.)

twistedyota

iTrader: (1)

i ran a toggle switch off the switch for my clutch pedal and its sitting under my carpet where the rear overlaps the front under the driver seat.

B4Runner

When I got gas the other day, I had already been driving around with my needle below empty for a while, so my tank was almost empty empty I bought $15 of gas at $3.099, giving me 4.84 gallons. When I got home tonight, I had 105 miles on the truck since the gas-up. I will put another 5 on it to get to the gas station in town next before heading to work tomorrow. That will give me $110 miles, ~22.7 mpg. 22.7 MPG ON THE 3.SLOW!!! I'm about to crap myself, this is unheard of.

B4Runner

Hmm, a security switch on the clutch seems a lot easier and convenient to do. I'm not familiar with the ignition wiring. If I do the fuel pump line, thats guaranteed success. But for the clutch, I'm not sure if the clutch pedal button makes a difference when hot-wiring with the ignition. Input guys?

snowhite

I have a toggle switch connected to the fuel pump of course I wont say where the switch is but from experience it worked 2.5 years ago and still have the runner the only thing they got away with was my 6x9s in boxes velcroed to the carpet in back. the drivers door lock punched in and the tumbler for the ignition laying in the drivers seat. Its amazing all they need was one slandered screwdriver and it was theirs. Would of like to seen the look on there face when it would not crank over. HA HA HA

Mountain Cop

It seems to me that a fuel cutoff switch would be a lot harder to find/bypass than a clutch safety switch toggle.