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arlindsay1992's 1987 4Runner Build Up Thread

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Old Jul 27, 2016 | 07:51 AM
  #141  
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Haven't posted pictures of the truck actually fully assembled. Washed it for the third time since it was painted and actually took some nice pictures. Since the last pictures the mirrors are installed and the front end is all put together. I need to detail the interior and get some pictures of that too.

arlindsay1992's 1987 4Runner Build Up Thread-kzmr9tz.jpg
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Old Jul 27, 2016 | 11:45 PM
  #142  
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Looks great man.

Wish i could work on mine but it's been to hot and humid to fool with
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Old Jul 28, 2016 | 04:52 AM
  #143  
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Yeah. My garage time comes in short bursts and it's hard to get much done. My garage seems to trap in heat and humidity so it's even worse than the driveway.
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Old Aug 4, 2016 | 08:17 AM
  #144  
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Know what you mean. I have a ceiling fan, a side door open and a box fan blowing in and it still is over bearing.

At night my garage floor condensates and gets slick.

Nothing like body filler dust on a wet floor. Hard to get off
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Old Aug 4, 2016 | 06:24 PM
  #145  
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I recall in your last video you said that the floor mats you have are Tacoma floor mats. I've been looking for some myself that fit well; do you remember what generation of Tacoma those mats are from?
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Old Aug 5, 2016 | 02:41 AM
  #146  
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I'll do you one better. I've got the receipt at home. I'll give you the part number.
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Old Aug 5, 2016 | 10:15 AM
  #147  
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This truck looks great, body work turned out really good! Nice job. Any other plans in the future?
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Old Aug 5, 2016 | 01:06 PM
  #148  
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Originally Posted by Reluctanse
This truck looks great, body work turned out really good! Nice job. Any other plans in the future?
Winch bumper and winch, sliders, solid axle swap, 4.71 gears, and lockers. I feel like I've done so much to the truck but when I list what I still want to do it seems like I've done almost nothing.
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Old Aug 5, 2016 | 06:15 PM
  #149  
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Originally Posted by arlindsay1992
I'll do you one better. I've got the receipt at home. I'll give you the part number.
Awesome, thanks!
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Old Aug 7, 2016 | 07:20 AM
  #150  
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Looked through my folder of receipts and couldn't find it. I could have sworn I saw it in there years ago but I guess not. I've had them as long as the truck so they're either for a first or second gen Tacoma.
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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 01:01 PM
  #151  
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It's all good, thanks for trying!
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Old Sep 7, 2016 | 04:50 PM
  #152  
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Not much of an update but I did bolt my TG wheel spacers up to my SFA hubs. Still slowly collecting parts for the SAS. Still need a spring hanger, shackles, and high-steer. Then it's time to get cutting.

arlindsay1992's 1987 4Runner Build Up Thread-ujp0axu.jpg
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Old Sep 7, 2016 | 05:05 PM
  #153  
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Are you planning to run the spacers to match the ifs rear (once you do the front axle swap)? If so, you should look into doing the ifs hub swap. I did that on my on mine a couple months ago and am using the bigger ifs v6 calipers (all pistons are big, vs 2 big 2 small). Noticed a big difference in stopping power, but then again i did dual diaphram booster swap with newer 4runner master cylinder and proportioning valve to feed the bigger calipers.

Whose solid axle bracket are you planning on running? Ive got one on a trail rig i bought for parts. It drove straight down the road no issues, but is definitely home made. Has a 2" receiver built into it which is sweet for recovery/winch mounting. If your interested ill make you a killer deal for it. May have shackles as well.
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Old Sep 7, 2016 | 05:45 PM
  #154  
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I'm going to use the V6 IFS calipers also with rotors for an FJ60. So they are vented but fit the older hubs. I don't really like the IFS hub swap because you need to drill out the threads on the knuckle and turn down the hubs. Having a slip on rotor isn't a huge selling point for me.

I'd like to run the Low Range Off Road front spring hanger since it's low profile. It also has slotted holes that line up with the tow hook holes in the frame to help with positioning. Probably going to get their greaseable stock replacement SFA shackles as well. Most aftermarket shackles are a bad design in that they can't actually be tightened down because they'll pinch the bushings. This leads to looseness and the shackle plate holes getting ovaled out. If you look at the factory rear shackles there's a shoulder so that you can fully tighten the nut without the spring bushings getting pinched. LROR and DavezOffroad are the only two manufacturers I've found that address this issue.
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Old Sep 8, 2016 | 03:30 AM
  #155  
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Good points on the hanger. Yea this one definitely squeezes the bushings when tightening.

What springs/amount of lift are you planning to go with?
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Old Sep 8, 2016 | 02:01 PM
  #156  
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Rears up front and as little lift as possible. Hoping to keep it level with the OME CS-009R springs in the rear so about 2 inches overall. I know with high steer that might not be possible and I might need to bring the rear up another inch or two. Hopefully not, though. I guess we'll see.
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Old Sep 9, 2016 | 01:34 PM
  #157  
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I just got caught up on your thread and you have done a great job bringing this truck back up. As far as you tore it down and got it to where it is, you will have prevented a lot of future problems. You will still appreciate the work you got into even a few years from now. Great Job!!!
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Old Sep 9, 2016 | 02:02 PM
  #158  
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Originally Posted by arlindsay1992
Looked through my folder of receipts and couldn't find it. I could have sworn I saw it in there years ago but I guess not. I've had them as long as the truck so they're either for a first or second gen Tacoma.
I pulled the Husky Liners from my son's 1st gen Tacoma before it was sold. I'll try them in the '89 this evening and take pictures. It never occurred to me that they might fit.
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Old Feb 21, 2017 | 01:29 PM
  #159  
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A while back I got one of those plastic dashcaps. Not a new dashpad, a dashcap. If you've been on the fence about fitment I'll try to give my opinion. They fit really well and unless you look closely you won't know it's there. The most obvious sign is right around the vents. The dashcap has a finite thickness which makes it so the vents cannot be removed through the holes in the dashcap. No big deal unless one breaks or you want to remove the far right one to install/remove the screw that holds the dash pad to the dash structure. My solution was to not glue the dashcap on like directed, but to screw it on. I installed the screws along the bottom and way off to the right so they don't show. Also, having an inclinometer helps here. The dashcap gets sandwiched between the inclinometer bracket and the dashpad. With no inclinometer there's a larger span between where the cap gets fastened. The last thing to worry about is color match. I got one unpainted. The color I went with was Duplicolor Vinyl&Fabric Charcoal Gray, HVP111. The match isn't perfect, it's a bit lighter than the rest of the dash, but it's pretty good. The flash makes it seem worse than it is. Overall I'm quite pleased. It looks way better now than it did with the cracked original dashpad.

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Old Feb 21, 2017 | 03:00 PM
  #160  
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Looks good, but those screws would drive me nuts.

im considering getting one of those caps, but i can get my local advance to mix a vinyl paint to match my interior.

as for attaching it, screws would suit my fancy better but i would have to have them hidden.
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