Ok this build may be slightly canceled, or well extremely altered, but it might turn into 3 REALLY interesting projects. Stay tuned...

yah I used a cliff hanger in a build thread what of it haha

 

so you finally talk dad into the one tons on the 86 with the LT-1? that would be sick and you would be able to one up your older bro that way? i bet dad would even wheel it with you!!! he has been talking for years about building that truck into some thing, i mean i had he talking prerunner years ago so why not wheeling monster???

and i forgot to get you the oil pan pic but i am going back up tomorrow to finish up the axles for my truck so i will try and remember it.

here is a teaser for the old man.....

14bolt, shaved, disk braked, geared, welded and painted, even with a little chevy orange to piss off the ford guys!!!

 

Nope the lt-1 very well might be going into the 86, but no 1-tons. Yah an 86 beater race truck haha. It is the last year it needs smog so I think we are going to register it early, and then tear into it. Dam that thing will go to the dump fast haha. The plan is to fix it up steal the rims off of the mustang so he can get crome ones, re paint, redo the interior, but that is after taking it to the track with the multicolored hood, adn rust holes. I am pumped it will be like a ricer on crack. For wheeling I am going to check out an 84 4runner, or atlest most of one he is parting it out. I want to put a 4.3 in it smog it and check that against the range I can be in with the 94 then if it looks, and runs good the 94 engine swap might be back on. Dad seemed kind of pissed I wanted to SAS and wheel my truck, but he is pumped about your truck, but the second I mentoned buying a beater, he jumped right on board, and wants to wheel with me now. If the 4.3 doesn't look good we are talking about headers, an exaust and intake, and a cam, with the 22r in the 86 and droping it into my runner. the 3.0 is rated at more HP, and torque than the 22, but after driving his truck, and driving mine I don't really buy that. I am also checking into a 5speed swap, maybe that is my issue.

Oh and by the way I got to drive a sertain puiter car that was mentioned earlier in this thread it was through the nehbor hood but sweet none the less

 

just remember to look at the RPM the motors are making that peak HP my bet is the 3.0 dosent make max HP till redline and unless you want to drive at that redline all the time then you wont see the max HP much, i know the 22r's powerband kicks in alot earlier so alot more is usable and yes the auto vs stick is a big issue for you, most autos suck about 20-30% of th HP where as the stick is in the 5% range.

I am with dad in the beater to wheel subject, as cool as it is to SAS and DD the 94 it is really nice to have a truck you dont worry about body damage at all and can thrash on and still get to work on monday morning even if you break down wheeling, and breaking while wheeling is not an if it is a when. i bet he also wants it to be an extra truck so he can drive it some times too...lol

as for the smog emissions on the 4.3 you should find a record from the Testing center or a local shop on what the 3.0 needs to meet and what the 4.3 for the year you want needs to meet and see if they are close, that will give you a close approximation of if it is feasable or not. putting all the smog crap and cats in an 845 seems like an aweful lot of work just to see if it works in the 94. also if youi made a dedicated wheeler, why do you need the 94 anymore, i know you love that truck but if you had the 84 runner and could drive it if the snow really dumps it would be bettwer for you to get something that will haul your base have soem power and not have to worry about a motor swap? just throwing that out there....


oh and remember with the lt-1 remember to keep the motor as far back as possible!! v-8+toyota=little room for radiator,,,

 

It would be a hassle, but it wouldn't take that much effort to just remove the cat, and put a peice of pipe in its place. I think that is the real kicker for the beater is that, wheeling is SO much more fun when you can drive into a tree and not care instead of having to worry about the braches scratching the paint haha. Yes I do expect my truck will disapear at times, or as dad put it he will help me take it out and roll it haha. I thought about ditching the 94, but I really like my truck to much, and it is about perfect for the size of my gear, enough room for mine, but not to much that everybody tries to turn it into the band van. Big cars and being in a band means loading unloading and taking car of EVERYBODY's . the 22r will be just sitting there to and the whole thing was rebuilt not to long ago I think I need to find a second gen with a 22 and 5 speed and go for a test drive. The plan right now is to build a wheeling rig, and run the 94 as it is, and keep doing research for an engine, and what is an option. I am thinking the 22 semi built would do exactly what I am looking for though, and a cam and headers shouldn't be very expensive, even with a five speed, if I'm not going to lift it or do anything it will probably be ok. I think the big pull to keep the 94 is that I have wanted a 2nd gen 4runner since I was like 15, I love the way they look, and this is literally the claenest one I have ever seen, and I dought I could find anything as clean and reliable for the 3000 or whatever I have into it. After a few years of trashing the wheeling rig and the 94 isn't in ass good of shape, once i get a new car and that adult crap together I might think body swap and it will be back to the origianl project, but it will still be an 84haha.

As far as the LT-1 we pulled out the messuring tape. It will be TIGHT, but with an electric fan on the front of the radator, which will be almost up against the grill with some trimming, it will just fit.

 

yeah and there is something distinctively sexy about a 84 and one tons...lol you should buy that big block truck and throw all that in an 84 runner!!! would be crazy!!!

now thinking about it i drove my friend ray's 89 excab with a 22r and 5 speed and it seemed a ton quicker than your runner....

here are some cool idea's:
http://www.wildyoats.com/more_22re_hp!.htm


so here is the skinny on the 22re vs 3.0:

22RE('85-95):

116hp @ 4800rpm
140tq @ 2800rpm

3VZ-E

150 hp (112 kW) at 4800 rpm
180 ft·lbf (244 N·m) at 3400 rpm

notice the torque of the 2.4 max's at 2800, and the 3.0 max's at 3400, if it was to be my best edjimicated guess i would say the 22re has a almost flat torque curve and hits high on the torque way down low and in the normal operating range where as the 3.0 is more of a normal v motor torque curve and will not hit until alot higher RPM, which will amke them feel very compareable at the lower RPM's.

anyone else want to chime in? any one have actual power curve graphed?

 

you figure it out yet? you got to remember you only got slightly over a year if you are going to make the rubicon trip with us!!!

 

Dude I thought you were going to try and make it this summer, wow I do need to pay more attention haha. The guy with the runner has a crappy schedule I am going to try and check it out tonight, and maybe drag dad to see what he thinks this weekend. I guess the engine is in peaces, and there is some stuff missing, but $250 for a truck with a sfa seems like a decent price as long as it isn't rust on wheels. It depends how complete the engine is, if it is close to complete I am going to try and get it running do rears up front with ? cheap leafs in the rear. 36sih tires the high steer and locker, and run it till I break something, I am half temped to weld the rear put the aussie in the front, but I think the selectedbul in the front I think will save some breakage. I still need to A lot more research, I havem't looked that much into 84-85's yet. It honestly seems like everything I wanted to do will be cheaper though, ecept for insurance, and the initial purchase, which is almost as much as I was looking at for an axle so we will see.
As far as the DD I am jsut cleaning it up, becuase it won't see off road anymore, but other than that I am just going to drive it, till I can get wheeling again, I am so pumped to wheel and not worry about painted, and breaking things constantly, and this one I will drive at rubicon

 

do 88-98 chevy rear springs without the overloads. try and find the three leaf pack not the 4 it will be softer unless you want to haul alot....

and damn right you will drive it on the rubi trip.....

 

you have to get new hangers, and chackels for chevys though right? do you have lift blocks? I think most of them I have seen do, but I really haven't looked that much yet. Either way should be hella easier then remaking the 4 link.

 

yes on the new hangers and shackles no on the lift blocks

 

So why do you need new shackles is it for travel(length), or are they wider than toyotas? And good on the lift blocks I kind of think they are gayer than ass-less chaps, I have seen them on a bunch of chevy's in the rear though hmm, it might be the different lengths.

 

the chevy spring is a touch wider but the main reason for new shackles is to get a little more lift without causeing bad pinion angle. and stock toy shackles are thin, beefy is better!!

and lift blocks are ok in 1" and 2" apps but any bigger is a no no for anytrhing other than a pavement pounder unless you got really good traction bars.

 

dude you are all about the chevy beef but you drive a Yota whats up with that. so it is pretty much a shackle lift, thats doable. Dide you have to move the front hangers for the rears, or was that just to move the axle?

As far as lift blocks there are way to many fullsize trucks with 10" of lift, and they all drive like idiots. I guess they could be used well in the right application.

 

if you are talking rear i moved both, rear shackle hanger and front spring hanger cause the chevy springs are 63 long and the toys are 48 IIRC. i just cut the rear hanger off and moved it back to get the appropriate shackle angle.

the front i made a new hanger and welded it on further forward, check pirates FAQ for how far to move it.

as for the front i made a front hanger to move the axle forward and down for pinion angle too.i have seen some with stock front hanger but pinion angle seems to usually be an issue. and the stock front hanger is thin, no beef!!!

oh and i am not about chevy beef just beef in general, maybe i am just paranoid, but i would rather over build than under build anything that supprts the weight of the truck.....and you in it.....get my drift?

maybe that is just the paranoid engineer in me speaking but i would hate to have something i built fall apart.

 

come on don't be a sissy haha. For sure. I am just trying to figure out what it is going to take to get driving again, and calculate costs. Eventually it will be built to the hilt, but you know it goes it gets built as the money comes in. I think it is important not to cross that line of skimping to wheel, but at the same time it needs to hit the dirt as soon as it can

I guess as the little old lady says where's the beef haha.

 

trust me things like shackles and spring hangers are better done right the first time! it is a PITA to change them later, or worse on the trail.

also be weary of the frames on the older trucks they rust pretty bad and get thin and require alot of plating to beef them up if too far gone.

 

I think I am going to have to set up the high steer in the front and relocate everything in the rear to do the lift, so it would really probably be a good idea to just do it all at once, get the right axle location, and trim fenders/ fix rust at the same time. I have been doing some research on the swap to. I don't think new hangers will be that bad, and just as easy to go beafy as to skimp, so might as well just do it right. Well and the more beaf the bigger rivers you can try and jump haha.

What do you think about double shackle setups? I read they are really common on chevy leaf swaps, and I have seen a lot of them on the rock guys trucks around here, but it seems like there are mixed reviews online.

Any places specifically to check for rust or older trucks, or just the frame in general? I should finally be able to check out the truck this afternoon, scheduling BLOWS. Should I plan on reinforcing things in general, because of age, or if it looks good on the outside should it be alright?

 

the worst spot on the frame is right where the rear leaf hanger is, where the frame sweeps up gor the rear axle the mud and gunk build up in there and rot from the inside. if it looks decent out side it should be good as long as there are no cracks, and really plating the frame isn't that hard just time consuming.


BTW i am finally getting to the point of removing the old axles and throwing the one tons in so your hysteer should get there some day soon...

as for doulbe shackles, personally i dont like them, i know they work for some but they can unload at the wrong time, like going down a really steep hill, if those expad and the rear raises 5" it can get sketchy....

you are better of cutting the hager off and welding it back on slightly farther back, not much/ if any more time involved than making the shackle, and alot safer....

 

So I have been itching to wheel, but it doesn't look like it will be happening soon. I have been checking out 1st gen runners, and trucks like crazy, but there is a lot of people selling crap on craigslist, like the guy that was trying to sell an 84 with IFS and the EFI. The official decision is that the engine swap is off is off for this rig. I think I might be able to pull it off, but I just don't really want to deal with taking the chance every time I need to smog it, and I think that will detract a lot on the re sale value. So instead I have decided to try and make the 3.0 do a little better. To start this week end, I did an ISR mod out of a 2.5 mandrel bent peice of exaust that was laying around, because the intake was partially ductape anyways. It really made a HUGE sound difference it was leaking pretty bad. I also dropped a 50 series flow master in place of the rusted out old muffler, and finally cut of the lame looking chrome tip that hung way to low. Still need fix the

The outcome was really noticeable sound wise. The intake got a lot quieter, and the exhaust changed tone drastically. It seems a little louder, and it gave it a much lower better rumble tone to it. I think the next step is a high flow cat, and reprogramming the computer, or putting a resister in the intake temp sensor to try and use the new better flow, and if I can find a good 5-speed setup at the junkyard I would love to do the 5 speed swap.

I don't think that anything would show up on the dino, but I defiantly feel a difference pulling up hills, and on the freeway. I'm not going to be street racing or power braking it anytime soon, but my gas pedal hassent hit the floor since I got everything done which sad to say is impressive for a 3.0 with an auto. I will let you know about millage after the first couple tanks.