Orion22rte

Yea, and you wouldn't get any oil drain back if your filter doesn't have the check valve. And thanks for the words of motivation!

Well yesterday I went over to do some of the buttoning up that still needs to happen yet. Mostly electrical and the plumbing for the oil system.

I'll do a walk through and step by step with the connectors that I got.

So here I am starting my little wiring project. I got my oil cooler fan relay mounted right next to the fuse box. Bottom is rtv'd and dielectric'd between relay and mount.



Running some convoluted 3/8 loom, pretty standard



When running looms, I always use electrical tape at the ends, and I use it about every 1' of loom, at make my junctions nice and secure



Here we have a sideways pic of my fan hot and ground wires, already stripped, and little plug grommets on



Then you put on the metal terminal, it crimps around the wire and the grommet



So you do both the same way and grab the connector case



And voila! You push them in and they have little catches so the cant fall out, plus there's a piece that folds down to really keep them in there





I dielectric 'd the blue grommets... Just in case lol

That's about all I was able to get done. I measured out a length of oil line from dual filter to block. Gonna get some hydraulic quick disconnects for it so it'll streamline pulling the engine or something. And also do to the fact that the hose is a push lock type, so once you push it onto a hose barb it does NOT wanna come off. I made the mistake of pushing a fitting in to make sure it had a tight fit and actually had to cut he hose off, no clamps or anything.

Probly won't get much done for the rest of this week, I'm goin to visit the parents for the weekend.

bbrideau

yea all my work rigs use hydraulic quick connects, damn they're a bitch to get off, usually some screaming and smacking to move them. but they're also seeing a lot more abuse than a yota would.wiring looks good, wiring is a weak point for me not only do i dislike doing it but i don't understand most of it... probably contributes to why i don't like it.

Orion22rte

Yeah , I like the qd's till they start leaking, and hopefully these won't. As far as wire and electrical goes, I'm not a stud, but I know what right and wrong look like and I know what great looks like too, I just don't have time for that though. And I like to keep things simple when it comes to wiring and electric. There'll be ALOT more wiring with this truck later down the road.

Speaking of wiring, I finished the fan connectors





Got the engine IN today, heck yea

Pilot bearing in!


Aisin clutch and brute force flywheel



Bout to drop the engine in, no helpers today



Slippin it right in there



Got it settled in, hooked up to tranny, motor mounts, starter put on, and I think that's about it








Getting close but still got alot of odds and ends to touch up. Hopefully soon she'll be on the road again!

Orion22rte

UPDATES!!

Moved truck to my place, it's currently in the parking lot.







AND got my own tools.



So I got to workin on it



Peak at the oil cooler



Lost the fan nuts somehow, went to autozone, bought one of the metric nut and bolt kits. Used quite a few things already.



So this was the end of the day









So filled as much of the oil system as possible, adjusted the valves to .008-.012, checked everything, then turned it over with starter(spark plugs removed) no oil press..... Did this for a little while, still nothin.

Put plugs in and cranked (hooked everything back up)
It didn't start, few cylinders hit off, but nothing really close to starting. I'm gonna check the cold start injector next.

I'm also gonna re-check the timing, and make sure I'm not a tooth off with the dist.

Really gotta get the oil pressure up tho and I would feel tons better.

I need to get a muffler, cuz it's just straight piping for right now. Lots of little stuff.

Any body have tips/tricks for these engines on start up? I did notice that I couldn't turn the engine from the crank with a 1/2" drive ratchet.

bbrideau

when you put oil in did you pull the valve cover and dump it over the rocker arms and cam first then put the valve cover on?

Did you plug your fuel pump back in? i know it sounds stupid but i was cursing for over an hour til i remembered i unplugged it.

check and double check your timing is aligned, doesn't sound good that you cant turn the motor over by hand, especially in a turbo with lower compression. When it was cranking could you hear any audible sounds of metal on metal or did it seem hesitant while cranking? hopefully your dizzy is just off a bit, took me a couple tried to get the dizzy in the right spot but eventually i got it right, double check all the plugs make sure they're fully plugged in.

Orion22rte

I'm pretty used to checks and double checks but this ones got me.

I did pour oil all over the lifter assembly, an I double checked the timing, I fixed a small fuel leak, and I don't think I ever unplugged the fuel pump. I've connected everything that I can find.

It'll turn over and it won't even try to start, it just smells like gas and turns over.

I've checked the spark, there's spark. Timing is good. Spark plug wires are good. It just seems like there is something not right.

I ran the diagnosis check and got code 6 and 11. Checked the distributor, just the inside electrical stuff. It looks ok.

I'm kinda stumped right now. Not really sure what else to check.

Orion22rte

Measured the air gap in the dizzy,also found the dizzy was one tooth off.

She started and ran for about 3 seconds. Got oil pressure to my oil cooler, so that's a huge relief.

Tried to start it again and I believe the starter cable is bad, went to take it off and I turned the entire post on the starter solenoid. That and the starter cable is smaller and pretty ragged.

If it turns over it acts like the battery is low even when I'm jumping it with another vehicle.

I need to get a muffler on this thing, and i won't worry so much about breaking in the cam in the parking lot. Lol

While I was rechecking everything I took a break and greased everything that I could. Cheap grease gun wouldn't actually pump the grease into some of the zerks. Ugh

It's gettin real close though, school is starting back up and I'm taking MIG and TIG this semester.

bbrideau

nice man!

hopefully the starter is the only problem you have from here on out.

Orion22rte

Thanks!

Well the truck will start and "run" now. It doesn't really have a problem starting. I think the timing is off just a bit. It ran good when I first started it, after it warmed up it got a little chuggy.

Had some oil leaks, tried to fix, added some oil. Tried to let it run at 2k rpm for cam break in. It seems to be doin alright though.

One little demon, is at about 1k rpm and 2500 ish rpm it starts missing and such. Idles too low once hot also.

Oil line blew in my face, at which point I decided to call it a day.

I'm wondering if I need a 22re afm rather than the rte version. Also was thinking of adjusting the afm even though I didn't smell any gas. Not worried about that yet, but it's in the back of my mind.

No pics, cuz there's not much to show yet. I have a short vid. Idk how to upload tho.

I deleted the egr, so I'm still trying to figure out what I need or don't need.

It's getting close!

Orion22rte

Short video, you can hear the stutter around 1k rpm, two pops at 2100rpm, and at 2500 more stuttering.

http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psc493d454.mp4

Orion22rte

Mkay, well finally got some money and can start workin on the truck again, got the oil leaks straightened out finally. No coolant leaks, need to buy ATF for the ps.

I don't have a timing light, It's gone missing (everytime you need a tool that you know you have, or have had) so I adjusted the timing by ear, and I gotta say, it's gotta be very very close to perfect.

I adjusted the afm 3 clicks looser, for non turbo driving and we'll see how that works. I drove the truck around my apartment complex. No leaks no issues, just that there was no power steering.

Still not DONE, but it's on it's way. Needs a muffler really bad for some torque, and so it's not so annoying. Should try to get that done Monday.

I can start cleaning it out soon, and get it ready to be my DD. once I start driving it to school, and I get some money, I'll start out on my bumper.

Will mess with it later in the day.
Here's a pic, and 2 vids.

Where the truck has been slowly gettin worked on



The truck idling, needs muff

http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps646bbd6c.mp4

Short drive, super stiff suspension, one hand driving, no power steering, no torque

http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps9f337230.mp4

Will keep the updates rolling

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

You have been doing some great work and it is starting to show. Just so you know I dont just look at pictures, I did see where you torqued your head to 90 foot pounds. Toyota started with 58 and then upgraded it to 60 something foot pounds. Not sure what of if anything will happen when you over torque.

I dont know if a turbo afm is different or not. You said it idles low when hot, I have seen where burping the system can make a huge difference.

Little by little you will get it, just have to stay determined. Once you start driving it daily, things tend to move along a little faster on a project. Great job you have been doing.

Orion22rte

Hey! Thanks man!
I've been goin through a really tight financial situation and it did get put on the back burner. I'm excited to have it running, and I can really start smoothing it out.

As for the head torque, it's just what was recommended by the head stud manufacturer, I was pretty nervous since its almost double what the stock torque is.

I'm going to try burping it, the temp gauge seems kinda Huey, it'll be dead cold and after a minute or so of idling it jumps to the half way mark.

Also when it first starts, it starts powerful, and then just kinda slowly dies down the idle till it'll cut off. I gotta give it some throttle to keep it from dying. But once it's warm it idles fine and does pretty good. Still lots of little demons, I'm not gonna be able to work on it this weekend. But hopefully Monday I can get the muffler welded on, and I need to stop by the DMV to get the registration and title switched also.

Thanks tho! Hopefully I'll keep the updates coming in !

frm_808

iTrader: (1)

Stumbled across your build, Loving the work man. Keep it up!!

Your t-stat may either be going bad, if its the old one or if its new, you may have to drill another pass through hole in the t-stat. i cant remember the exit drill bit size but it is but i believe it was smaller than 1/8th in. My 22rte was doing this as well even after a new t-stat. Would get up 3/4 of the way up, then all of a sudden drop down to normal operating temps. after i drilled the hole problems went away.

I currently now have an autometer temp gauge for a more accurate reading


I believe the Turbo AFM may be out of spec or cuz you converted to naturally aspirated motor.
Heres a link to test it out with an OHM meter/ multi meter https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ng-fsm-154732/

This may be N/A specs, but ive also used it with my 22rte afm. in specs per that sheet.

snow walker

Some things you might not know, the turbo injectors are 100cc's bigger than the Re's and the turbo ecu retards the timing big time. Not sure why you gave up on the turbo if it's a money thing? I would not waste my money on the steed speed manifold. I have been running a fairly cheap log style manifold from ebay for years now works great. The T3/T4 I got from ebay is still working as well. What ever manifold you run get a gasket from remflex best gaskets ever made. A great site for info is 22rtetrucks.com Great bunch of guys run it. Truck is lookin' good keep up the hard work.

Orion22rte

Hey, thanks for the advise and tips guys!

Well, I'm worried now, so I can start the truck easily, it starts right up and idles pretty good. But after about a minute of running just fine, it then starts knocking. Sounds like it's coming from the front of the engine or #1 cyl. It purred for the first minute and then the knocking faintly started and then grew louder, in which I turned it off.

It sounds metallic, but it's a steady knock, not like a rod bearing goin out. I haven't done a compression test yet.

Any ideas would be extremely helpful. I'll try and get a video tomorrow

Orion22rte

Been a while... My spirit has been pretty crushed lately. Something is amiss in the engine and it just makes me sick to think about.

Here's a video:
http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps7dd82690.mp4

Starts fine, starts knocking after a minute or so.

I just don't have the place to work on it anymore and it would have to be towed. All of which I can't pay for right now, so yota project has taken a the back seat on the bus. Just thought I'd update this

kornhuskerwizard

Did you try the afm its suppost to have??

Orion22rte

I haven't, I just adjusted the afm tension, and that did the trick. It starts, idles, and drives fine... But when the knock started I parked it and it hasn't moved since.

So it's a turbo block, RE head, RE fuel injectors, RTE pistons, RTE afm, and RTE computer . Runs and drives fine(super slow), but it's got that knock.

Plan is to eventually lift engine, drop oil pan, find out what's goin on, and probly pull engine.

I'm super bummed

bbrideau

Hey man! been a while since i caught up on your rig. Sorry to hear about the engine knock, Check for metal in the oil before completely pulling the pan. You might want to try and find the source of the knock while its running. either buy a mechanics stethoscope or get a long wooden dowl. Hold it against the ear and against where you think you have the sound coming from. Im wondering if the RET pistons are hitting the RE head valves could be wrong though. it sounds like collision to me but again, i could be wrong. Havn't had to diagnose to many knocking issues thank god.