Just watchef your vid... if i knew a 22re could be that good with proper gearing i may would have not pulled mine... wish i could find time to work on it

 

Updates????

 

Nothing good. I snapped the cv on the front driveshaft yesterday and have done a lot of custom body work over the past few weekends. I'm not sure if I'll be able to put a top back on it now.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ZlKO...W-mNq7cfveYhQ=

 

Omg that suck im sorry dude...well at least thats why u built it right??

 

Exactly, that's what it's for.

 

Looks amazing! You ever thought with going with bigger tires?

 

Thanks. I'll be running at least 37's eventually, but want to upgrade the axles and address gearing first.

 

The video looks 3D? Thanks for showing.

 

Haha! Yeah, the guy recording is really shaky, so when I did the stabilizer through youtube it made it all weird and floaty like that. Makes me kinda sea sick to watch.

 

Twin sticked yet?

 

What are you running for rim size/backspacing?

 

I got the auto adapter and and dual cases installed this weekend. I still need to build a crossmember and modify the triple stick shifter and floor to work with the clocked cases though. I'll get some pics up when its finished, should be later this week.

 

The rims are 15x10" with 3.5" backspacing.

 

Are you building your own crossmember because it's cheaper or because off-the-shelf x-members won't work with an auto tranny?

Good to see more people wheeling the auto, though!

 

I love your "jeep thing" sticker i so have to get me one!!

 

I'm building my own crossmember mainly so that I can say I did it myself. There really aren't many options out there for the auto though, especially clocked, except the Front Range crossmember which is similar to what I have planned.

 

Thanks. I think I got it from Amazon.

 

Nate - total side question for you, since you mention crossmembers...

I'm putting my W56 back in again (replaced, then took replacement out to repair leak), and seem to have, in the course of both removales/installations, stripped the threads on two of the drivers side front holes (one is a tab welded to the frame with threaded bolts welded on (that stripped), and the other is a theaded hole in the frame itself - all OEM.).

I have this 4" Pro Comp IFS bracket lift installed from years ago (Big O tires), that has the 2 reinforcement rods that mount to these two holes (the OEM bolts mount through the end of the rod, and into thier OEM housings...always been a PITA to get the front inside bolt in due to the clearance around the end of the rod from Pro Comp....but I digress.

My question is, what's the best (safest!) way to deal with this? The bolts simply turn in place right now, pretty easily with a ratchet). What I'm planning on doing is running a longer bolt 12X1.25 through the tab hole, and using a washer/nut to secure it to its original location, since the threads on the welded in bolt are toast. For the inner hole that's *IN THE FRAME*....well I'm not sure what to do but just leave the bolt there and pray.

It's an OEM crossmember and OEM transmission - no extra T cases, though I have an extra lying around now that I replaced my old W56.

Phil

Sorry for the threadjack - been following this thread for a while and thought I'd ask since it was on topic

 

I'm no expert, but I think that I would do exactly what your planning. A quality bolt through the stripped out hole with a nut on the topside should hold up just fine. I wouldn't think that one missing bolt on one side of the crossmember would compromise enough strength to be concerned with a stock t-case. When I bought my truck it only had two bolts securing each side of the crossmember, and who knows how long it was run like that, but I didn't notice any damage.

 

Thanks nate! Wow...that's nuts about your crossmember..it really IS a deathtrap