7m's swapped & sas' d 87 extended cab
#123
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Yeah I have an SR5 cluster, I might try to recalibrate the tach but I've heard it's easier to just buy the v6 tach. Does anyone know whether the B+ add or Component power wires are supposed to be thick gauge on the truck side?
I do have a check engine light on my cluster as well. According to haynes it's supposed to be a black wire as well.
I do have a check engine light on my cluster as well. According to haynes it's supposed to be a black wire as well.
Last edited by ronnie4; 02-10-2009 at 07:32 AM.
#124
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Well, I made some progress on my wiring today, the starter signal wire is black on the engine (22re) side of the harness and then turns to black/white on the car side.
I found another connector sitting in the kick panel area, it's one of the connectors that went to the 22re ecu, there were 3 and only 2 came out with the engine harness. After looking at the wire colors it looks like I can get engine light, speed sensor, and tach from here. Can anyone who has done this swap confirm this?
Also, I am having trouble finding B+ and component power on the truck side, putting a multimeter on it didn't reveal anything. Can anyone help me out.
Here's a pic of my progress if anyone is interested.
I found another connector sitting in the kick panel area, it's one of the connectors that went to the 22re ecu, there were 3 and only 2 came out with the engine harness. After looking at the wire colors it looks like I can get engine light, speed sensor, and tach from here. Can anyone who has done this swap confirm this?
Also, I am having trouble finding B+ and component power on the truck side, putting a multimeter on it didn't reveal anything. Can anyone help me out.
Here's a pic of my progress if anyone is interested.
#126
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#127
no, should only have power when key on, or key start.
it will not have power in acc.
note: when key on, your coil's will be on, and heating up. so dont leave the key on to long.
it will not have power in acc.
note: when key on, your coil's will be on, and heating up. so dont leave the key on to long.
#128
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#131
well every thing is soooo close, i had to clip a couple of thing's off the fan.
well if i hit any thing to hard with the front to hard , well the best way to describe it, is hittin the fan. in my case, the water pump and rad.....
well if i hit any thing to hard with the front to hard , well the best way to describe it, is hittin the fan. in my case, the water pump and rad.....
#133
i couldn't get it to fit into the spot i wanted untill i started to clip off the plastic gaurde to keep hands out of the fan.
the pictures above, shows only 1 cut, in the end i decided to cut all three to help clearence it the best, and allow to change belts with out pulling the rad and fan out.
i haven't secured the fan to the rad yet, and i might run into the issue of not being able to remove the unit once together....
this next picture shows how i cut the upper rad to help water flow and to help keep the upper hose form collapseing, i still wish to put a sping into the upper hose.
the pictures above, shows only 1 cut, in the end i decided to cut all three to help clearence it the best, and allow to change belts with out pulling the rad and fan out.
i haven't secured the fan to the rad yet, and i might run into the issue of not being able to remove the unit once together....
this next picture shows how i cut the upper rad to help water flow and to help keep the upper hose form collapseing, i still wish to put a sping into the upper hose.
#134
remember that the engine is also going to move front-back a bit while driving -- I did the same thing with the fan when I first got it together
(puller fan) and found the crank pulley kept bumping the fan even with the rear guard cut up. Later I ended up cutting the front body cross member just a bit, drew a line and cut 1/2 way through all the spot welds - got me an extra 1/2" - 3/4" in front for a pusher fan.
BTW, I'm looking to swap out my 19"hx22"w Griffin for this 19"hx24"w AFCO Dual Pass from SpeedWay Motors for $235 -- it gets rid of the upper radiator hose / alternator pulley clearance problem (just flip the T-Stat housing 180*), I need to call to confirm but it should be 2.25" thick
(puller fan) and found the crank pulley kept bumping the fan even with the rear guard cut up. Later I ended up cutting the front body cross member just a bit, drew a line and cut 1/2 way through all the spot welds - got me an extra 1/2" - 3/4" in front for a pusher fan.
BTW, I'm looking to swap out my 19"hx22"w Griffin for this 19"hx24"w AFCO Dual Pass from SpeedWay Motors for $235 -- it gets rid of the upper radiator hose / alternator pulley clearance problem (just flip the T-Stat housing 180*), I need to call to confirm but it should be 2.25" thick
#135
thanks corax,
i'll keep a good eye on those close area's as it get's started up.
i'll probally box in the stock motor mounts so their solide, to help keep the engine where i want it.
i'll keep a good eye on those close area's as it get's started up.
i'll probally box in the stock motor mounts so their solide, to help keep the engine where i want it.
#136
Rockstomper sells these solid motor mounts
and Marlin Crawler has these HD Transfer case mounts
Last edited by corax; 02-12-2009 at 02:53 AM.
#137
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Well I was a dumbass earlier when I said the stock 22re radiator wouldn't fit around the crank pulley. I had the crank pulley on wrong, so it wouldn't go on the pulley all of the way. It fits fine with about half an inch to spare, I might even try to fit a v6 radiator in there.
However, without a body lift the radiator outlet comes right next to the thermostat housing. Not sure what I'm going to do about this. Here are a few pics.
However, without a body lift the radiator outlet comes right next to the thermostat housing. Not sure what I'm going to do about this. Here are a few pics.
#138
Well I was a dumbass earlier when I said the stock 22re radiator wouldn't fit around the crank pulley. I had the crank pulley on wrong, so it wouldn't go on the pulley all of the way. It fits fine with about half an inch to spare, I might even try to fit a v6 radiator in there.
However, without a body lift the radiator outlet comes right next to the thermostat housing. Not sure what I'm going to do about this. Here are a few pics.
However, without a body lift the radiator outlet comes right next to the thermostat housing. Not sure what I'm going to do about this. Here are a few pics.
what about your lower rad hose?
that looks worse then the upper...
aslo, if any one is interested, i have a good lsd from a mk3 turbo 109k on it.
i know it'll work in the rear end's of most trucks, i think it would work for the front of straight axles...
#139
i did the wiring for my fal fan still haven't mounted it, just soldered all my wire's and connections, and made to length. just need to mount every thing when i have some time.
the last week i have felt like crap with a stupid cold...
the last week i have felt like crap with a stupid cold...
#140
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Lower radiator hose is fine, its just the angle in that pic. Anyone know how thick the v6 radiator is compared to the 2cyl one?
I hope you start feeling better man.
I hope you start feeling better man.