I picked this 87 up a couple months ago and it's been nothing but trouble. So I've decided to to a decent gut/rework on the mechanical and electrical. I've been documenting everything with photo's so I'll include as many as I can without getting out of hand.


The first order of business was when the truck overheated after 15min run time from home to Batteries plus on my way to class. After a compression test we concluded it was a head gasket so I began tearing into the block.

Here she is in all her glory, getting towed to my uncles shed/shop.

Sharing Space with an offroad CHAMP!


My advice: This being my first Toyota, In hindsight I suggest to anyone going any deeper than a HG that you pull the motor. IF time and space allows. With everything removed to take the head and timing cover off, theres not much left connecting the engine to the chassi except the mounts and transmission. At the very least, remove the radiator and the hood.

Hood off and Ready to begin! When you remove the hood, be sure to make matchmarks on the brackets to help with alignment.


The virgin engine compartment......what a vacuum mess


Here's the Turbo Inlet Tube


And Here's what was in it.

 

Upper Manifold Off.


Lower Manifold off. Pay no mind to the FRAM. Not my call...


Exhaust Manifold and Turbo Removed.

 

The first UH OH! Cracked Exhaust Manifold.


Head Removed



Alternator. After Pulling it I had it tested by Red's Auto Electric in St. Cloud. IT's totally toast.


I'd like to make some kind of shroud that protects the Alternator from leaky power steering fluid.

 

Why not fix whats causing the power steering fluid to leak...

 

Here's a pic of the head.


And after rolling it back over this fell out on the floor.


Any guesses as to what it is? It's UH OH number 3 and 4.

Some of the WONDERFUL wiring....




ISH

 

I'm working on the leak at the moment. But in general, it's a poor location for an Alternator. A shroud would just be an added sense of security.

 

The Passenger Window fell out of the cradle so I pulled the glass out and applied the rubber retaining piece with black RTV. This works pretty well, but you have to let it set up for a day or two.

With the head out being resurfaced, the valves ground, and the exhaust manifold braised. The next order of business was to strip and repaint the valve cover since the red paint was boiling and flaking all over.



As well as begin some paint touch ups of other components. Here's my basic Rattle can paint shop.

The Metal Prep is KEY

Valve cover with Grey Engine Paint Primer on.


I still have to get the pics of the other components I painted with the engine paint. I used a glossy black on the air box and valve cover, and a flat black on the inlet tube, oil pan, turbo tubing, and various brackets.
EDIT: The rest of the Painted Components







Why I love my Body Lift, and reason for removing the radiator.


Of course, that didnt work. We jamed a pry bar in the flywheel and used a breaker bar. Even then it was touch and go for a while! I suggest the starter trick!





Here's a shot of my new 4 AWG ground and power wires.






At this point I'm ready to reassemble. I got everything cleaned and ready last night but I was stopped when I discovered a defect in the fire ring on my head gasket from engnbldr. I've contacted Ted and he's sending me a replacement along with other various parts free of shipping. I suggest you use Ted for as much as you can.

 

While I'm at it I figured I'd update the interior since my pass seat was only held in by two bolts on arrival. I got a good deal on a pair of 02 4Runner seats so I decided to start a 3rd gen seat swap. I'm absolutely amazed at how close the fit is. Basically, the two rear mounts match right up with threaded holes already in the body. One is the normal seat mount hole the other mount fits directly up to the seat belt bolt hole. Here's a few pics of what I did.










Here's the part I still have to work out. I'm thinking it'l go with a piece of 1x1" box tubing, some washers, and longer bolts. Possibly a little bending/grinding.


With a little modification

 

looks great keep us posted

 

Maaaaaan that looks familiar. I just did that to a Black 1st gen turbo runner. AND my passenger seat only came with 2 bolts in it. wow.

 

If it wasnt so unsafe it would be nice to leave it with two bolts, or no bolts. It's almost like a rocking chair!

 

For those intimidated by the idea of digging this deep into the engine. I have done 98% of this work from these two tool boxes.




The only special tools I have used are:
Torque wrench
Valve Spring Compressor
Puller (Crank Pulley)
Air Tools (90 deg Die Grinder, 1/2" 3/8"impact, 3/8"air wrench)



Parts I've ordered include:
Topline
-Camshaft
-Rockers
Engnbldr.com
-Turbo head gasket set
-Timing cover
-Rear main seal
-Timing Set
-Sleve and seal front/rear
Auto Value
-Water Pump
-Cap, Rotor, Plugs, Wires
-Fuel Filter
-Oil filters
-Upper/Lower Radiator Hose
-Various Formed Heater Hose
-Various Vac Hose
-Starter
MSR (Mikes Specialty Repair)
-1986 22RTE Injectors
Auto Salvage
2003 Toyota 4Runner Front Seats
Alternator
2000 5vz-FE 134K Miles
2001 TRD Supercharger 20K Miles
Two Topshift T-Cases
W56

 

I got it back together tonight and after filling her up and fixing a few minor leaks here and there I began my futile attempts to start the truck.

I've read a lot about timing these motors but i must have missed something because I can't get her to catch. I've set the crank at 5deg BTDC on the compression stroke and I've i've stabbed and restabbed the distributor twice. She just want's to give me a hard time.

I have fuel, air, spark, and good compression. Not sure what I'm missing here..

 

 

How's that turbo working out? I'm kind of hesitant to get a CT-20 myself just because of the reputation of turbos in general. What's your feeling about yours, considering you've rebuilt most of the engine already?